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how can you make a dsm side mount front mount? I am getting a side mount soon and would like to know this. Will it look wierd being centered up and not filling the whole bumper opening?

The stock mount will fit with some modding. Cut the top bolt mount off of it, so there are only the 2 bolt holes left. Thats it. I did this (for not having time to wait for a new mount) and it works perfect.

ok, the only other thing is gas, which Im about to go get some 91. I only had an 1/8th of a tank of 87, so I hope I didnt screw any thing up. I shouldve filled it with 91 before the swap but I didnt have that much forethought. There is one thing though, I had a code 14, so I cleaned the IAC...

If you are getting a CEL for the IAC, clean it out, reset the ecu, reinstall it, and it should go away. Mine did after I cleaned it. The IAB is wired to a17, just bypass the jumper harness and hardwire it to the ecu. use the b18c VSS. Not sure on the blue wire. One is a vent, One connects to...

I will assume you are going to use a 1.8 or 1.6 b series tranny so, you can reuse the two tranny mount, the top and front, but only two bolts will go into the front mount. You can reuse the d series rear mount, BUT you need to cut off the top of the mount so there are only two bolts that will...

ICM, Ignition Control Module. So, Yeah, it would be the ignitor. I took it for a spin tonight, after fixing vtec and such, I have NO CEL's, but it hestitates REALLY bad, up until vtec,then it pulls, but not what it should pull like. Both of my friends think it is because I am using a d15b7...

Im not using a d series ecu, I am using a p30. I mean the ICM, inside the distributor. Im asking if that would cause it to seem sluggish.

ok, so I just finished my swap, a b16a, and I finally got it running. BUT, when I ran it, right after it first started, which it hadnt run before since it was pulled out of a jdm sir, seemed sluggish. It was getting a cel, and I have yet to check it, to see if my vtec isnt working, but if it is...

I love making my own stuff. Ill most likely make my own DP. Of course, I can weld so that dosent limit me. Get 2.5" piping from a good muffler shop(smooth bend of course), flanges, and fab one up. at the very least if you do that, mark the DP so it lines up, then goto the shop and get it welded...

I had glassed door inserts. But I got rid of them. They were the same color as my paint on the body. They got scratched, and I got tired of them. The panels are still red, but a darker red, and tweed. The only other tweed on my car is in my trunk on the floor. I dont like bright interiors, but...

oh hell, even if this is an old (revived...) thread, I can still ask, all that damage looks like it was due to big bars. What about using a 94 integra ls rear bar (14mm) on a 93 civic with H&R sports?? Will that be safe? I dont want to tear out my subframe.... :blink: almost every performance...

I guess the only way around it is a standalone. Hell, Ill end up using uberdata. I was going to if I got a z6, but I could never find a basemap for a b16. After reading about it more I already made a basemap. All that is left after I put on the kit is to datalog it with my laptop and fine tune...

im not against fmu's, but they put a big load on the injectors and whole fuel system. what about a 225LPH HP pump, with..310cc injectors and a lower fmu scale. but the question is, what scale to use? 10:1, 8:1 ect. I wont put a burner out of the question. I like uber, but I cant find any good...

so I "should" be safe at 6 on the hack? I know lots of people use it, I just need reassurance after spending 2500 on a new motor.. :unsure:

black smoke is fuel, blue is oil. Mabey its running a little rich? I know this may not help, but my bros wrx blows a good bit of black smoke when WOT is applied after idle or low speed. I guess it could be the oil lines too though. Check there, and if thats ok, see if you are running it rich. :)

ok, Ive decided against the FMU. Ill go with dsm 450 injectors and the afc hack. But only this time, with 6psi of boost, do you think I will need an msd btm or should it be safe? Even this route I dont plan on more than 6, I just dont want to cheap out and blow an expensive motor.

ok, thats all I wanted to know. Ill probably need a walbro 225HP pump because of the higher pressures right? Oh, and trust me, I wont go higher than 6psi. I really dont need to. I just want some more power. And hondata seems like overkill for 6. <_<

so...I have most of the turbo parts, and just curious, what will say, a vortec fmu do with a td04 turbo at psi on a b16? Of course I have a big FMIC, and I have talked to others than run an IC with the stock greddy kit for single cams, and they are pleased with them. Of course, I will keep the...

one reason it keeps cracking, all the weight of the turbo (and DP) is hanging off the tubes. Reinforce it like the new manifolds and it will hold ALOT better. I know this to be a fact, because I have personally seen them (the new reinforced one) and it works great. Get some thick metal bar...

Ive got this swap down pat. I know I need 6 wires, (93 dx, so I missed the batch of 92's that had the japanese harness :() BUT, should I cut the plugs off the b16 harness and hardwire them, or relocate the cannon plug wires and ecu pins? Were can I get the extra pins for the ecu and cannon...