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Well I am ready to give up on this one!!! :angry::angry::angry: TPS was bad... 30 K ohms in closed position... Pulled the one off the D series and it was good, installed and recalibrated it on the B (.512 closed... and about 4.97 wide open.. close enough???) Started it up and the cold idle is...

Just watched this... Skunk2 Videos and as I watched him recalibrate the TPS I was like hey wait a minute I never recalibrated it and I had it out for the swap so that I wouldnt crack it when I dropped the motor back in... could this be my problem Ill check it out, factory setting for closed...

Hey I appreciate the help anyways!! When you said switch the wires I was hoping I had missed something... I really would love a quick fix at this point. Thanks for trying though.

It's not a DPFI to MPFI swap just a B16 into an EF... the old D was MPFI, it's a 1990 si.

Switch the wires??? What wires exactly? If your talking about the additional wires for the swap it's been done,vtec solenoid, vtec pressure switch, 2nd 02 sensor and knock sensor all wired up intgrated into the main harness and triple checked the ecu connections! It still bothers me that I...

So I pulled the FITV valve out to tighten the white slotted ring inside as I heard this could be causing the surging idle... it was tight so I decided to make a block off plate and remove the FITV valve completely. The cold idle is no longer 2500rpm, it's down to a normal 1300-1500rpm. Here's...

Anyone got an idea of what could be happening? I've bled the FITV, took the IACV off and cleaned it up put it back in and bled it... no change! Replaced all the vac lines and tried different vac set ups... no change! New vid from start up to idle problem... Just watch the last 40 seconds or...

found this pic of a JDM integra XSi which is what my engine came from... looks like my vac set-up is wrong, I'm gonna switch it to match this... we'll see what happens

hondacivicguy05, Let me get this straight your saying I should run the purge cut line and tee it into the map line, and then take the regulator line and run that to the back of the IM or also to the intake pipe?

YBLEGAL, The map is the same one that came with the crx originally, it was hooked up to the d series motor that came factory. I've never heard of anyone mentioning needing a different map to complete the b series swap, also the car originally ran a PM6 ecu which is OBD0 and the current PW0 ecu...

I'm going to try again with more bleeding this time.... maybe I should take the FITV out and see if there's anything blocking the flow? I'll run thru the FITV flowchart in the service manual,I saw one for the IACV there must be one for the FITV too.

thanks YBLEGAL! vid should work... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U78ZOSFlwbY As for the bleeding... Well I'm not sure how you might go about it so I started with the bleed screw on the return side (post rad) going into the head. Opened a crack till no bubbles came out, closed and waited...

video link and pics I put a video up on you tube, at first it starts out with engine somewhat cold then you can here the idle surging. All I'm doing is opening the bleed screw to bleed air from the cooling system, then just before the idle changes and starts surging I check the back of the IM...

just wanted to add my vacuum lines are hooked up according to this diagram... \ CRX Resource - Brandon Tells Us How To Swap a B16A Into the CRX (scroll down to number 46)

Normally I'm all about the searching and FAQ's but I've not got the time, deadline for this car working is next Wednesday! Road trip to V-fest in Calgary and I still need to break in the new engine. The car: 1990 crx si, b16a swap, running PW0 (OBD0) ecu, engine has been completely disassembled...