Search results for query: *

Its a 90 hatch civic with a d16z6 it only has 90000 on the motor prob 210,000 on the body but its so clean. it has 1 dent in the whole car no quarter panel rust either. the dash is broken and the windshield. I only want 1200 for the car as is or i will also part it out i just need it gone to pay...

bump.....

i dont know how let me know and i will send pics, I will part the car out or sell as is

ive got a 90 civic std that i put a d16z6 in p28 ecu it is red, the body is in good condition. its got eg seats. when i did the swap i left the four speed trans in it but i do have the hydraulic five speed that will come with the car, i live in missouri the car is best offer.

i wouldnt recommend buying one of these harness btw im pretty sure he just fed me over, everyone i talk to says that the harness they have bought just plug right up and actually work right.

ive got an ef i had to by a wiring harness for its a monotech harness. by the main connector on the driver side there is another connector i think its got something to do with vtec im not sure tho its a little square connector. my friend had a gsr civic that a wire ran from there threw the...

well i bought mine from a guy named monotech off of here so i hope its done right.

i have a bad ass ohm meter from universal technical institute. everything i test im getting power too. can you tell me the main things i should test, i just want to see if ive missed anything important

on a forum someone said to move c1 and c2 pin to b10 and b12 do you think that could be my problem, and if i were to take it to a shop and have them look at it where would i take it? will any shop be able to do it bc its swapped from obd0 to obd1, thanks for the advice.

ok so i got a d16z6 swapped in my std civic. i was wondering what slots the b10 and b12 goes to in the ecu connector. i was told to run a wire from c something to the cps wires. since ive done my swap ive got no fuel and no spark.

I also tried the k test and was getting 5 volts to the pin way to the right

i tried the ecu from the 1.5 that was in it and its just doing the same thing. my only light that is staying on now is my battery. its brand new tho, and the alternator test good, all grounds are good no bad fuses, there are two wire on my distributer that arent wired up, obd1 hass blue and...

i was gona see if theres a way to check the ignition switch, and if when you pull the wires from underdash and fuse box if they should go off or stay on. im kinda thinking it may be the ignition swith

thats what i was telling him i used to have a dpfi in my std civic till i swapped it to a d16z6 obd1. it got amazing gas mileage, aight il go check this piece!

ok so my buddy has got a civic with a 1.5 in it and its been getting only 10 mpg out of the many things it could be what do you recomend, i was just wondering if anyone has had this problem

any other suggestions?

so my car still isnt running im not quite sure whats up with it, could it be the igniter, or ignition switch?

i dont have the 02 sensor wired up yet they sent the harness with single wire 02 sensor when i specifically told em it was obd0 to obd1. but the jumper has wires for the 02 so i think i should be good. would this cause the symptoms by not having the 02 wired up

yes bought a harness from monotech it was sent with obd0 dizzy plug i had to cut and rewire, all matched except for two on the harness and two on the clip. on the clip there is a blue/grn and blue/ylw, on the harness there is a ylw and then a blk/ylw do you know which gets wired where or if that...

no ecu is perfectly fine. yes wiring is all ran right, all fuses are good, i usually leave the battery terminal off unless im messing with it but when i connect it and turn the key fuel pump primes then wont until i repeat that step?