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FIRST... You get the block Sleeved...Do not boost that thing without Sleeving it, FRM Cylinders do NOT handle boost well regardless of the piston choice u run. AFTER you've sleeved the Block.. Mahle Gold Series Pro' Low Compression Pistons Eagle Rods Valve Train (For Turbo Applications) Boost...

Ok so I tore the block down, and I ran my finger along the cylinder walls..nail didn't get caught in anything, walls are fine actually. So i'm set to Order Mahle Gold Series High COmpression Pistons, and Eagle Rods. No sleeves. Now i'm hesitant, because I wanna Gun for 200whp but I don't have...

I just didn't like the way you came off....Simple as that. But I'm with you, I'm not here to argue at all so with that I nod and am officially OFF it...happy posting and merry christmas!

I don't totally agree with that, I'm running on a hondata on what I'd believe to be a very good tune and when my tec kicks in I FEEL and HEAR the engagement, the car practically SCREAMS...it's wonderful, I love it.

YOU Show me a 400 HP ALL MOTOR LS then while i'm at it since EVERYONE is building them.

Thickness doesn't automatically warrant strength over a superior substance. Pardon my Comic Jargon but it's like your saying 1 FOOT of Stainless Steel would have more resistance to wear then 1/4" of Adamantium, negative, One metal clearly has MORE density and tensile strength per unit of mass...

Granted..I don't mind being corrected..still, Can't help to feel like he was being a DOUCHE admist doing it.. Anyway... "2) You're same bolt on theory shows merit but is ultimately flawed due to the fact that you can find more selection for a b-series motor and most of the bolt on mods for...

200 at the wheels? I don't think so. Try 200 at the crank, so more like 160-170 horses to the wheels... EVEN STILL, as a base number that's MORE then you're getting at the wheel for an ITR or CTR, so props granted to you on the Douche-Move correction, but the fact that the H's output to the...

Preference and budget is gonna be what decides your motor. You'd have to specify what B18...The ITR and CTR motors are the cream of the crop of the B18 series, high output and decent torque and have a High Redline, however, as them domestics say, there is no replacement for displacement. The H...

Yet it has responses dating as faaaaaaaaaaaaar back as......Yesterday. As if weight saving is not gonna be important to someone else who may reference this thread for information..which is good..because ALOT OF THE TIME IT'S WHAT YOU GUYS TELL NEW COMERS TO DO....yanno Search? Read other threads...

Not gonna bash ya.. All honesty I think you should try what your gunning for on a D16y8...That's IF you prefer to remain single cam and can't go B or H.. It's a good motor to just leave stock and throw boost at, Get an intercooler, controller, preferably a TUNABLE ECU, and a TUNE, Run 91...

I forget the stock weight of an Eg coupe EX... But I removed the front bumper reinforcements and the rear, my back seats, my heater core, I cut out reinforcement in my doors (Hope I don't get into any side accidents), spare tire, Seat belts, Two front seats replaced with lighter racing seats...

I have. I know that the Mahle pistons are coated, as well as their rings to be used with FRM cylinder walls in the H-Series motors. Yet my issue is that since NO PISTON ever touches the Cylinder wall unless you get the dreaded PISTON SLAP, and that truly it's THE RINGS that touch the wall..why...

Dude....Picture of elanor has me in tears.... 18-Wheeler DESTROYED mine on Rt. 1&9....have NOT been able to find another one since.... *Goes into a corner and sobs*..Oh elanor....

Hey, new here. Just getting right down to the point.. I have a JDM H22a (Prelude SIR) motor swapped into a 95 EG. The head gasket went on it, and i'm considering some upgrades. So here's my question.. 1) Can I drop the TYPE S pistons in it, and how much of a bump in compression/Horsepower...