damn thats some bad mileage! you take the chip out already?
when i had my vx set up with the wideband sensors i burnt my old one out (guy put full exhaust on a hyper mileage car) it was full of carbon. i ended up soaking it in some seafoam i got from O'reilley's (schucks) and it works now for...
damn no bueno on that chip for smog. what kind of mileage were you getting?
probly disable your O2 sensor(s).
i've probably literally tried about 10+ hours to set the damn timing. had it running well a few times but then had to fix sensors and it always goes out of time again. belt is newer...
yeah i've tried the normal procedure over and over. i pry the tensioner and tighten the bolt back up but my pulley always advances about 3-5 degrees. almost always goes back to this same position no matter if where i put the damn crank at before i put the belt on.
got a guy coming out today...
yeah with all your egr connected you probably wont see much change in just switching over since you'll still have the same v-tec engagement and almost same cam lobe. better just to swap over and do a mini-me or an engine swap.
don't know where your at but if you ever want to get rid of that y5...
yeah i had some success today and checked the schematics and had another ground at d21 and that also ran to my egr system i had before so i spliced it into the egr plug sensor ground in the engine bay and no more check engine lights!! whoo!! now i have to take it to honda to get it timed...
what parts in a swap are essential to make any engine run/work in a car its not made for
1. engine
2. transmission
3. wiring harness (unless adaptable)
4. ECU
5. Mounts (get d to whatever engine you want to run mounts)
6. possible radiator
7. possible fuel pump
d-series won't line up to...
what parts in a swap are essential to make any engine run/work in a car its not made for
1. engine
2. transmission
3. wiring harness (unless adaptable)
4. ECU
5. Mounts (get d to whatever engine you want to run mounts)
6. possible radiator
7. possible fuel pump
d-series won't line up to...
i understand the application of the harnesses and the differences. mines already set up for my v-tec engine since i pulled my v-tec-e engine out so has all wiring. just that the wiring for O2 is different.
i just sold my extra one for $20. ouch didn't know what i could get out of it. but i...
the wiring is just in the wrong pins for the wideband. theres like 7 wires for O2 on this harness or something. and carries two sensor wires i beleive. haven't done too much looking into it. probly should haha.
with little wires like that i usually just take an blade and peel back some...
you fix your code problem? i had that one time when i took off my throttle body to clean it and took the tps off. accidentally didn't align it in the grooves and the position caused it to send the code.
are you talking about the wiring on the ecu side? or the sensor side? or after the harness...
i'm pretty competent with mechanics ;)
i spent the 100 bucks on the p28 and took out the p07. after a huge failure of trading my aftermarket wing for a damn auto p28. haha
the wires all insulated. the signal wire isn't a shielded wire (extra copper insulation) has regular insulation. all...
vx uses a 5 wire wideband. i started wiring the 4 wire bosch in using the pins i stated. cut the wires and spliced to the ecu wires. then tapped the wires to the engine bay back into the original splice when i noticed those went to sensors.
so wiring is directly from the ecu to the sensor...
*bump*
really needing help on this. anyone have any input?
anyone good with wiring or done this/know someone who's done this before?
just basically shorting the d22 pin out somehow (sensor ground wire) so causing all my sensors linked to it to keep an open circuit and tripping.
im good...
i wasn't exactly meaning use the z1 head. the z1 and y5 heads are unique. they use roller rockers for their 12-16 valve engagement at lower v-tec engagement.
i was meaning it would be better to use a y8 cam in the y5 head. check out the specs on each cam. might be better just to switch over...
did the same thing with my z6 when i traded my wing for a p28. auto will not run right due to it looking for the transmission and it will throw codes for the missing sensors. basically sticking it in limp mode which makes it run like a v-8 as you say. get the manual and you should be good...
in my experience with the z1 (previous v-tec-e) you can just use the y8 cam and swap the rocker assembly over. heard of this being done with z1/z6 cams and the z1 rocker assembly. i would say check out the z1 and might help to answer your questions about the cam swap. hope that might help
if you run the v-tec to a switch you risk losing oil pressure to the head at high rpm's and you will burn up your motor a lot faster.
if you want to lower the v-tec engagement just send your ecu to get chipped and have them set it at a lower engagement point (i.e. 4k-4.5k)
im wiring in my 4 wire O2 sensor
using pins
d22 to green wire
d14 to white wire
a25 to black
a6 to black
spliced wires into existing wires using spade connectors for removal if needed. cut the wires and wrapped them back to the connection (didn't know if i could tape them off or if they...
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