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12.5:1 with 2.0L displacement is safe with good fuel management and proper tuning. I wouldn't go too much higher than that. Make sure you use 93+ octane all the time. As far as rpm, with a stock B20 block, I would stop at 9k. If you went with a sleeved B18 or B20 with good rods and pistons...

Honda cranks are VERY strong. We have a turbo hatch running over 400whp and it has a honda factory LS crank...no problems. My Civic Si has a LS/VTEC with a honda factory LS crank and I shift it at about 9k all the time with no problems. And it's not just LS cranks. We've never seen any Honda...

Best way to get the B16 to 1.8L is to get it sleeved for an 84mm bore. It's a nice setup...1.8L with a rod ratio over 1.7:1. Most people decide that they'd rather sleeve a 1.8L and make it a 2.0L, so you don't see the 1.8L B16 very often.

With 10k, you could sleeve a B18 to an 84mm bore (2.0L displacement), build a solid bottom end with forged components, build a head with a reliable valvetrain and good cams, and still have money left over for a good engine management system. The only part that is really different for the B20 is...

The passage that you tap in to is very large...there is a plug at each end of the block for it. It's maybe 3/4" in diameter. After we drill and tap it, we run it through the jet wash then spray it down with a strong solvent and run brushes through all the passages just to be sure. We've never...

There's a main oil passage in the block that runs at the bottom of the cylinders in the crank case. You simply drill and tap a hole in the passage for each piston squirter and, after cleaning the block thoroughly, screw them in. We have done it before on a few LS blocks when customers asked...

We recommend that process to all of our customers. It really is important to get the rings to seat correctly, and we've found that this is the best way to do it. I ran my LS/VTEC fairly hard the very first day I was running it and it's been running great. Leak-down tests showed almost 0 after...

I have eagle rods and SRP pistons in my LS/VTEC with Crower Springs/Ti Retainers and Ferrea valves. CTR cams and 11.2:1 CR. It pulls very strong right from idle and is a lot of fun over 7k (I rev it to just over 9k).

I have CTR cams in my LS/VTEC...11.2:1, eagle rods, SRP pistons, Hondata s200, I/H/E...they've been good in the low and mid range and pull damn hard above 7k

If you're looking for prices to figure out what you want to do, here's a brief list of my pricing. These prices include the following: - Honda Block - Honda Crank - Eagle Rods - SRP Pistons - ACL Bearings - Honda Water Pump - Honda Oil Pump - No Core Charge - Hone, Balancing - Choice...

Well, the first problem you might run into is the way the VX head works. Out of VTEC, only 1 intake valve opens. When you then hit "VTEC", around 2800rpm, then both intake valves open. The way that engine gets almost 50mpg is that it's designed to run really, REALLY lean at low rpm. It can...

Flying is great. Our flights out to SEMA and back were perfect. The landing is a lot of fun...there's nothing quite like throwing her in reverse at 150mph :wall: If all else fails...:beer:...and lots of it

The VX has VTEC...but it's VTEC for economy, not speed. Under about 2800 rpm, only one intake valve opens. Then when you hit "VTEC", the other intake valve opens. My girlfriend gets almost 50mpg in her VX, but it is a DOG to drive, and both 4th and 5th gear are overdrive. Good for swap...

I'm definitly going on the slide. Last year when I was up there I watched an employee go down the track and learned a trick to go REALLY fast...like flying off the banks fast. So I'm definitly down, and you're going to have to catch me before you can hit me :P

For a turbo application, I would actually rebuild your GSR bottom end. The GSR blocks have piston oil squirters installed stock which would help with cooling in a turbo setup. You could drill, tap, and install the squirters in an LS block, but it's extra labor. I would pull the engine and...

You might want to have an engine shop build your bottom end and do the valve seats on your head for you. That way, they can check all the clearances on your mains and rods, take care of hanging your pistons on the rods correctly, and making sure your bottom end is solid. As far as the head...

Well, the site just says that you need a dyno, it doesn't specify an engine or a chassis dyno. We're going to have a Land & Sea dyno setup in the new building, so hopefully that'll qualify. Does anyone know of any shops around here that have an engine dyno setup to run Honda engines? I...

That's ok. I'm sure it won't take long to reach the required amount :thumbsup:

For the Hondata with all the "options" to tune and burn your own ROMs is about $1100. When it's completed next month, our new engine facility in Hudson, NH, will have an engine dyno that's setup to run domestics like Chevy and Ford and also to run Honda engines. So I'll have a full Hondata...

I'm getting the software, ROMulator and programmer in a couple of weeks. Then I'm just going to drive to NEDyno and tune it myself. It works great now, but I bet I can get more out of it :D