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hey so im working on a 91 civic hatch si... just put a poor mans type r in it and tucked harness.. im having issues with starter... the relay mounts on the side wall by underdash fuse box has two blk/wht wires, a red/blk and a blu/blk wire. the wht/blk wires come from ignition to fuse box then...

hey so im working on a 91 civic hatch... just put a poor mans type r in it and tucked harness.. im having issues with starter... the relay mounts on the side wall by underdash fuse box has two blk/wht wires, a red/blk and a blu/blk wire. the wht/blk wires come from ignition to fuse box then to...

hey everyone im about to start the process of converting my lsvtec dd to a turbo dd.. its a b18a1 with gsr head. i have a set if itr cams laying around. i measured my gsr vtec lobe and it seemed to be taller than the itr. but my secondaries were quite a bit smaller... obviously i want fuel...

would i be best off to buy a cometic 2mm head gasket? or a mls

cost wise its the same for the valves. would it be worth the machine cost to go ahead and over size them? im already dropping 300 for the valves.

hey guys so i just picked up this y8 head. its been ported and polished. came with a crower stage2 turbo cam and springs and titanium retainers. it currently has stock valves so im ordering crower valves. im planing on about 14 psi to 18 psi. should i get oversized valves or stick with stock size?

if i was building from scratch i would never use a block guard. but thats what the guy wanted so he had it put in. claims it was pressed in and decked... would i be able to remove it easily without damaging the block? the built head is wrapped up in plastic still... so when i put it on i can...

i was speaking about the d16y8 head specifically having cooling issues. the ones im referring to were stock. block guards are also know to restrict coolant and slip down causing cyl wall cracks if not installed correctly..... im a mechanic and know about maintenance and contaminants. i have...

ok so im picking up a 95 civic with my taxes. it has a d16y8 and has been notched for h beams( not sure brand) vitara low comp pistons and a block guard and full crower head... i have witnesses y8's overheat frequently.... will this be a weak link under boost? plan on 14psi. will i have cooling...

so the clicking noise i keep hearing when the battery is connected is the ignition. on top there is a small box. under the plastic is a plunger and a shaft. with no power it is to the left. hook up battery it shifts to the right. is this the interlock device?

ya im almost positive it a relay. anyone have a link to a ef auto to manual write up?

thats kinda what i was thinking. i read your auto to manual swap. im going to locate the interlock relay. remove it and see if that could be my problem

will do. i talked to previous owner and he says the ignition has been that way since the auto to manual trans. the purple box has the wire cut. and the neutral safety is wired up. im going to look into it soon

well the link was not exactly what i needed but i was able to compare. anyways i re-soldered that wire i cut from a15 onto the one i ran from resister. and i tried it and it was back firing in exhaust. so i looked to firing order. it was set one off from rotor. fixed that and vroooom. she fired...

ok so i looked into the wiring from that link you sent me dual. i noticed that at A15 it looks like i should splice into it. i cut itand soldered a wire to resistor box. from the diagram it appears wrong... any idea?

awesome ill look into that. i seem to remember switching the white wires at dizzy when i was trying to get my mini me started back up

its 90 hatch started life dpfi. its obd0 and i converted to mpfi. the engine came from a 90 teg. using a obd0 pr4 also both cars were automatic. now the hatch has been converted to 5 speed. which i did for the guy before i got the car

well kinda. he hacked up the engine harness. so i used the one off old mini me. so the engine harness is fine. im gonna give everything a good look over. the more i look the more i find. just makes me wonder. would my ignition issue cause a no start situation?

so i changed the ignition switch. and it still wont let me turn key back. attached to the switch is a small two wire plug that screws into bottom of ignition. when this is plugged up i cannot turn it back. but unplugged ignition feels and works fine. also when i hook up battery i hear a relay click.

so i changed the ignition switch. and it still wont let me turn key back. attached to the switch is a small two wire plug that screws into bottom of ignition. when this is plugged up i cannot turn it back. but unplugged ignition feels and works fine. also when i hook up battery i hear a relay click.