pissedoffsol

There has been a lot of talk about how to do this lately-- so time for a FAQ [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/smile.gif[/img]

Chances are, if you are even running yet, you are throwing code 41

first, get some basics as tought by pills: http://www.hondaswap.com/~pills/obd1guide.html

now, here's what your dealing with....



First off, this is considering a b-series swap done using the VX harness.
a b-seires will not run off the 5-wire, mostly for the computer reasons. so, firs tthing to do is to pick up a 4-wire o2, found in just about every other civic besides the 1 or 2-wire equipeed ones.

now you have a 4-wire ecu, and a 5 wire harness. the easiest way to do this is to simply ignore the vx harness, and run the wires straight from the 4 wire plug up to the ecu. Use your own descresion as to how clean you want to make it, and re-pinning is also up to you.

here's what you need to do-

O2 Sensor Input - WHT to D14 (needs to be a shielded wire)
Heater Control - BLK to A6
Sensor Ground - GRN to D22
Sensor Voltage - BLK to A25 or B1 (both are 12-volt sources, so either works fine.)

again, note, this is for an obd1 vx with an obd1 ecu.
if you are using an obd2 ecu, check out our chart in the reference section to get the pinout locations.

HTH

pissedoffsol

a little more info--

Converting 1992-95 VX to 4 wire O2 using VX engine harness

All wires are present except for the power input, but all wiring can be done using the existing wires in the engine and cabin harness. The following wiring will trace the wires, color-coded, from the engine harness side of the shock tower plug to the O2 sensor you are wiring. Most all wires have color changes at each junction.

D14 - ORG/BLU at O2 plug (engine harness side) - WHT (4 wire O2 plug)
D22 - GRN/WHT at O2 plug (engine harness side) - GRN (4 wire O2 plug)
A6 - YEL/BLK at O2 plug (engine harness side) - BLK (4 wire O2 plug) There are 2 BLK wires and either one can make either connection. The second BLK wire needs to be connected at B1 or A25. The easiest thing to do is unpin D16 (BLU/GRN) at the ECU and tap it into B1 (YEL/BLK) or A25 (YEL/BLK). Then on the engine harness side O2 connector, connect the ORG wire to the BLK O2 wire.

pissedoffsol

Thanks to b16vx for this info with pics

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The VX 12v is pinned different than the P30/P28, so you need to repin it to the right point,

Remove ECU, then find D16 it is blu/grn


As you can see the plugs have a small hinge that allows better access to the pins.

Now you can cut it and add it to the right pin (B1 or A25) or if you are really good and have a pin lying around, just add them both to a new pin and reinsert it back into B1 or D25. I cut it, D16, stripped the end and inserted it into B1 (yel/blk)then taped the wires together to keep it from coming out,


Not the best pic, but you get the idea.

Once you have done the ECU part, keep the ECU disconnected and goto the bay, connect the correct wires together as described in the previous post. In my pic they don't look right, because the adapter wire I got to lengthen them was wrong, so I compensated at the o2 connection. Follow the color coordination above and you are set.



This highspeed little junction can be picked up at any electronics store, and is much easier and safer than twisting them together and taping them. Though if you have the equipment and the time soldering them is the best.

Then when you have made the connections, plug in the ECU and make sure the CEL is gone, if so electrical tape the harness up to keep it safe and good looking.


The last step is to test drive it and make sure that the CEL (or another) doesn't pop up.


Happy driving!!!

pissedoffsol

more info and a compelte swap write up:

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=644434