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1.8 Vs 2.0

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by JDMilan, May 11, 2003.

  1. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    OK, this is more of something based from anyone's opinions. Basically I would like to know if it is possible to reach 12.0-12.5 times with only a 1.8 liter or is it very very necessary to just go 2.0? Trying to avoid sleeving is what I am getting at......

    I know it's been done before with a b16a stroked out back in the day with Tony Shagday but I am very very curious to see what potential a ALL MOTOR 1.8 could do at the track. For arguementative reasons lets say this so call 1.8 would be in a daily driven hatchy weighing in at 1950lbs "car itself" street tires also. Tony's car back then was obviously gutted like a fish and you know the rest, I believe it ran a best of 12.1 in the skunk/Zspeed teggy.

    The thing that has me going is that I have seen "occasionally" dyno's of 1.8's that produced tq figures in the mid 140's.

    Let me know your opinions????


    Milan
  2. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    Hey Pills or Esol put some info on this post guys, help a newbie out :p


    Milan
  3. E_SolSi

    E_SolSi Member of the 20 nut club Moderator

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    ive seen a GSR w/ ITR engine run 12.5 full interior on street tires
    he had a 84mm bore

    but considering the weight differance i would definatly say its doable in a hatch weighing 800lbs less with the stock 1.8L bore
  4. honda_mach3

    honda_mach3 Senior Member

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    i run a B16A2/B18C setup NA finishing at 12.7-12.8 on street slicks full interior daily driven. took me pretty long testing and dyno tracking the car. It's undecked and un sleeved, just honed for perfect ring seal. If you have the right tools, right idea, and right knowledge, you can make it. 1.8 do make it in the 12's daily driven full interior.
  5. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    Ok, so obviously it can happen, i figured you could especially in my case. Now lets put a spin on things with increasing bore size.

    This is what you guys have: bone stock ITR shortyblock.
    Your Goal: 150ftlbs of tq to the wheels of course.


    Different ways to get that??try to figure out ways that are less costly and more reliable. Cause there is a dyno where a guy pushed the stock sleeve to 82mm with aftermarket pistons and ran 146ftlbs tq. I thought that it would save me $$ on sleeving but can the now thinner walls take the 9-9,500rpm abuse??? Then i was thinking, well I could just weld a block guard to the top and that should help out some, but is that enough?? any info would be nice. thanks.


    Milan
  6. b16a teg

    b16a teg Junior Member

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  7. honda_mach3

    honda_mach3 Senior Member

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    no need to bore to 82 to get in the 12's. mine is stock bore with JE 12.5:1 pistons but i closed the ring gap a little tighter than specs to have a good seal and had drilled in piston blowby to reduce detonation. with proper quenching, you can pull into the 9200 pretty fine. besure to get the piston to crank angle between 12-14 degrees so it won't put a load to your bearings and you can pick up better RPMs. a flywheel is a must and a strong clutch so you won't lag out. though adding the flywheel you lose bottom end power, you gain top end power. do some more homework on NA applications, you'll get better at it without costing you a bundle.
  8. JDMilan

    JDMilan Senior Member

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    Thanks, I mean, trust me I know what I am doing :p but just needed some input from others who have actually seen and done something similar to what I am about to do.

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