12 sec all motor for 4 grand?
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Just got back from the dyno.
Here is the set up.
b18a block with ctr pistons
b16a head deburred by me
match ported intake manifold and overbored thottle body.
JG springs and retainers
01 ITR cams
Custom side exit header.
VAFC
Dynoed at 196 hp and 137lb torque.
I dont think 12's will be a problem.
Here is the set up.
b18a block with ctr pistons
b16a head deburred by me
match ported intake manifold and overbored thottle body.
JG springs and retainers
01 ITR cams
Custom side exit header.
VAFC
Dynoed at 196 hp and 137lb torque.
I dont think 12's will be a problem.
SleEPeR_CRX
Senior Member
is there anything else dont to the block besides b16a pistons? cause if there isnt, u might be running 12's for about 2 weeks. then Kablamo!
yea, it was rehoned. And I used new bearings.
Stock rods and rod bolts.
Dont believe the hype.
I have seen people blow up motors with ARP bolts. I think it is all about the build. Everything is loose. All clearances are on the big end.
I have allready put a couple thousand miles on it.
Spun it, its well built. I built it so I know it will work. No worries.
I will attach a spread sheet later on costs and dyno graphs.
Stock rods and rod bolts.
Dont believe the hype.
I have seen people blow up motors with ARP bolts. I think it is all about the build. Everything is loose. All clearances are on the big end.
I have allready put a couple thousand miles on it.
Spun it, its well built. I built it so I know it will work. No worries.
I will attach a spread sheet later on costs and dyno graphs.
SleEPeR_CRX
Senior Member
i dont care how good u built it, the rods are still stock, and u take that puppy up over 7500 a few times and kablamo. u shoulda put b16a rods in there while u did the pistons, then u woulda been fine, but LS rods cant do shit over 7500. trust me, im building an LS without vtec, and it cant take the load over 7500, so add vtec to that mix, and u got a bomb after 7500.
lsvtec
GNU/Linux Evangelist
Dude, shut the fuck up you are so damed clueless. I ran stock LS rods up to 8000 for almost a year and no problems. Have you actually witnessed LS rods fail at 8000 RPM where a "stronger" rod would have survived? If not then just shut up because you have no idea what you are talking about. If so I want the complete story around the failure not just some pics of a blown engine.
. Have you actually witnessed LS rods fail at 8000 RPM where a "stronger" rod would have survived? If not then just shut up because you have no idea what you are talking about. If so I want the complete story around the failure not just some pics of a blown engine. [/quote]
not to mention the fact that putting b16 rods in there will do you no good. he put the b16 pistons in there for higher compression, you put the b16 rods in there and all you will do is lower it again, you would lose power
i'm runnin stock ls rods in my motor with jdm b16 pistons, crower cams and springs, in a p&p head. i still have the stock ecu so i can't rev over 7k but with the stress of the higher compression the ls rods are holding up fine for over 10k miles now.
not once...but numerous times
Off topic!!!!
Chexk the sig!!! The pimpin' shand is strong once more, fools!!!! Woke up bettweeen 2 hot biotheces in my bvoxeers. Life doesn't get mouch bettter than that!!!!1
Ogh and good lycj wiuth talht goal of 12's with 4 g's wotj a dsm. Not goonna gappen. Maybe if you vhop it in half. Just kee[ the front wheels to pull it and chop the back of the car oofff..
My breath smells like buchs light!!!!!! SStiilll!!!!!!!!!
Chexk the sig!!! The pimpin' shand is strong once more, fools!!!! Woke up bettweeen 2 hot biotheces in my bvoxeers. Life doesn't get mouch bettter than that!!!!1
Ogh and good lycj wiuth talht goal of 12's with 4 g's wotj a dsm. Not goonna gappen. Maybe if you vhop it in half. Just kee[ the front wheels to pull it and chop the back of the car oofff..
My breath smells like buchs light!!!!!! SStiilll!!!!!!!!!
Well, I put this up here to show people you need to spend a ton of money to go fast.
But need to do most of your own work to keep cost down. You also need to have a creative approach towards problem solving. Dont just throw money at it.
Sleeper CRX,- I believe you have been misinformed. The rods dont fail after 7500 rpm's. I have personally seen 9200 rpms with these rods. I see that you building an allmotor LS. Thats fine if you want to be different. But a VTEC head will outflow the LS right out of the box. And you will have to spend more to get the same results.
Khrisb- Going fast is all about horsepower to weight ratio, and traction. The car will have to pull a 1.8xx 60 foot give or take. The rest will be easy.
Get nick- I have been racing Hondas for several years now. And I know what it takes.
Your example however is flawed. A Type R makes 195 at the crank and weighs 2639.
Thats curb weight taken from "edmunds.com" I belive curb weight is with a full tank of gas. Still Very close to 2800 with driver. My crank rated Hp would be around 220 to 230 and a car and driver weight or 2000 to 2100. I know your not "hateing". And it will be close. I will know in the next couple of weeks.
Ek9r- Your right it will be very close. Gonna have to nail some 60 foots and go on a diet.
I have gone over budget but not by much. I will post dynos when they email them.
Cost spread sheet
But need to do most of your own work to keep cost down. You also need to have a creative approach towards problem solving. Dont just throw money at it.
Sleeper CRX,- I believe you have been misinformed. The rods dont fail after 7500 rpm's. I have personally seen 9200 rpms with these rods. I see that you building an allmotor LS. Thats fine if you want to be different. But a VTEC head will outflow the LS right out of the box. And you will have to spend more to get the same results.
Khrisb- Going fast is all about horsepower to weight ratio, and traction. The car will have to pull a 1.8xx 60 foot give or take. The rest will be easy.
Get nick- I have been racing Hondas for several years now. And I know what it takes.
Your example however is flawed. A Type R makes 195 at the crank and weighs 2639.
Thats curb weight taken from "edmunds.com" I belive curb weight is with a full tank of gas. Still Very close to 2800 with driver. My crank rated Hp would be around 220 to 230 and a car and driver weight or 2000 to 2100. I know your not "hateing". And it will be close. I will know in the next couple of weeks.
Ek9r- Your right it will be very close. Gonna have to nail some 60 foots and go on a diet.
I have gone over budget but not by much. I will post dynos when they email them.
Cost spread sheet
i got $50 it doesn't happen.
E put 188/132, and ran a 14.6 i think it was in a 2450 lb car.
you won't hit a 1.8 60' without slicks. end of story.
2.0 is tough on street tires.
and if you don't have an LSD, so ad a tenth right there.
you never mentioned what tranny you are using... and what tire size...
E put 188/132, and ran a 14.6 i think it was in a 2450 lb car.
you won't hit a 1.8 60' without slicks. end of story.
2.0 is tough on street tires.
and if you don't have an LSD, so ad a tenth right there.
you never mentioned what tranny you are using... and what tire size...
No shit. I know what it takes to go fast. That was a drunked post up there. I think it says something like...You won't hit 12's in a dsm for 4 g's unless you take that money and buy a sawzall and cut the car in half. and run like some roller skate wheels in the back or something. I don't know. I was drunk. The post wasn't supposed to make sense. I don't remember...
Even then a Type R only puts down 160 to 170 whp. 30 extra horses goes a long ways.
If the car is light enough. The key is weight. The first motor i put in my race only made 195whp. And it ran 12.03 and weighed 1750. I am not sure what this car weighs but I am hoping 2100 with me in it. It will be close. 12.99 will have to be a near perfect run.
