13:5 compression gsr

[Magana559]

only place to set cams is on the dyno. If i went too far I would lose 15whp or more gotta see what works, took me 21 pulls and a lot of tuning.

 

[civicious]

Not everyone is as badass and smart as you Wil. I was simply trying to help the guy out and letting him know that one persons settings may or may not work for him and that he should have the cams DEGREED regardless of what cams and gears he's using. Degreeing > using anyone elses advice on where to set his cam gears.

Lol, no you weren't, you were trying to copy-and-paste someone else's post from another forum to try and make yourself look like you know what you're talking about...



and you failed.

 

[brian11to1]

I was trying to do that, would I have quoted what someone else had wrote? Nah, I would have plagiarize it and left his name out of it. Nice try wil, nice try.

Theres you a reason you only mad 201 on your motor and melted a piston... you ever figure out what happened?

If you're arguing that degreeing cams in from the get go is a waste of time, then you're just as dumb as everyone else in thinking that motors are like lego kits and just go together without any thought.

 

[civicious]

It melted a piston MONTHS after it was built when I ran it wide-open for about 10 minutes straight. Motors that were built properly never ever blow up, right? Reason it didn't make more power, from what I remember, was because the unpoeted head wasn't flowing enough air up top to make any more power.

And when did I ever say anything about degreeing cams yourself being a waste of time? You're really reaching now, huh?

As for motors going together like Legos, the 800whp Porsche 997 I put together this week went together like Legos...runs like a scalded ape, too - just like all the other ones that I've built! Weird how using the right parts with the proper equipment makes everything so much easier...of course, then again knowing what the fuck I'm doing helps a lot as well! Maybe you should start basing your arguments on what you already know, instead of quoting someone from Honda-Tech...or at LEAST know enough about what you're talking about to properly apply the quote.

So sad, so sad...lol

 

[CAFROG]

Regardless of brand, 1 degree of advance = 1 degree of advance.

This should have been sufficient to stop this argument. One-degree is universal. Yes some adj cam gears hace 2 degree increments but the whole thing is still based on a 360 degree cam gear.

 

[ppiart]

Lol. Thanks for all the help guys I have an idea of what my options are now.

 

[b18c5turbogt35r]

So I started this thread because I'm looking for advise for building my motor for 13:5:1 compression. My current setup right now is a gsr block bored to 83mm stock sleaves. Golden eagle crank, golden eagle rods, 11:0:1 JE forged pistons, ARP connecting studs, head studs ect. The head is a gsr head ported and polished with stock size forged valves, bronze valve guides, sk2 valve springs, sk2 titanium retainers, ect. Basically the head is totally fresh and built to flow air. I have sk2 pro 2 cams with sk2 cam gears, composite fuel rail, sk2 I/M with 68mm t/b. Stock injectors, sk2 2 3/4 exhaust from header back with no cat. For tuning I have aem ems v1 with the wide band air fuel kit. Basically I want to know from someone experienced what it takes to run 13:5, obviously high octane fuel bigger fuel injectors ect but I want specifics like are my cams gonna do good with that number, what octane fuel I should be looking at running stuff like that. I hope all my info will help with you giving me good feed back. If you have any questions feel free to ask

You can run 13.5:1 comp ratio my buddy has a b20/vtec all motor high comp around 13.1:1 he ran e85 with bulit b16 head with skunk 2 pro 2 and some more thing if you want to know contact me he made 250whp and 178tq!!!!!!

 

[Dual-500]

This should have been sufficient to stop this argument. One-degree is universal. Yes some adj cam gears have 2 degree increments but the whole thing is still based on a 360 degree cam gear.

Yep. And if you're going to start playing with cam timing you better have a clue in the first place.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with the eBay cam pulley's. Step one is to ensure the baseline of where things are relative to stock. Then make changes at a know rate.

First thing I did is to baseline the adjustable pulley with the OEM stock one that came off the engine and put a dimple with a punch where "0" is. To do this I machined up a shaft with keyway cut into it and put both pulley's on it and lined them up.

Then comfirmed the degree markings were 1 degree of cam change.

 

[Dual-500]

You can run 13.5:1 comp ratio my buddy has a b20/vtec all motor high comp around 13.1:1 he ran e85 with bulit b16 head with skunk 2 pro 2 and some more thing if you want to know contact me he made 250whp and 178tq!!!!!!

Lemme thread jack a little here - just a little - still compression ratio related.

I'm building a DOHC OBD1 ZC that sports ~9.5 to 1 stock. When I told the machinist I wanted to run 10 to 1 he cringed and started talking about detonation.

So, I know this guy knows his stuff as he's built lots of motors of many types including Honda's.

The engine was just ordered and will ship next week. I told him I am adding a knock sensor if the motor doesn't have one already - so he will add a bung up high on the back side of the block between #2 & #3. I'll change out the ECU in the 91 hatch target car.

How do you get away with 13 to 1? The ECU and knock sensor? Plan on usig stock cams with adjustable pulley's on them and have him port and flow the head.

Thanks!

 

[Blablah yada]

I'm gonna guess that stock cams are not what you would want to use (and/or) experiment with. An aggressive cam with lots of duration and overlap might allow higher comp. ratios. What about the dynamic compression ratio as opposed to the staic? Can anyone provide some stats for this thread? Could be an interesting dicussion, which I'll bet has been discussed before!