13.8v computer

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awptickes

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I've got a comms room that will be running 13.8v bus for everything in the room, but I need a computer that will run on that power too.

I'm looking for something like the EEE PC desktop version. It needs to have enough power to run a 5MHz Software Defined Radio at realtime speeds, so basically, core 2 duo at greater than 2GHz. Unfortunately, it might need to run windows, so it needs 4GB+ of ram, and a video card. I have an SSD for it, so SATA is a must.

Any ideas?

I'd like to keep power consumption to a minimum, since this will be running on a battery bank that's only 460Ah.
 
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Also. What kind of power connection do you have for 13.8V? Just a straight power wire? Or some kind of standardized plug?
 
Cool. I'll look at the eeepc again. A Raspberry Pi won't work, it just doesn't have enough processor. As much as I wish it did, nothing at that price point works for what I need.

Right now, just straight wire. It'll be Anderson Power Poles shortly.

Here's the idea:
RIGrunner 4005 - Starter Kit [RR-4005-Starter] - $104.03
or
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and
Super PWRgate PG40S Backup Power Switching and Charging System [PG40S] - $139.99


And it'll be running on a multiple 115Ah 12v battery bank, wired to either 12V or 24V-- haven't decided yet. Probably just going to go with 4 batteries in parallel with both a mains and solar charge system, and the option to power via generator if needed. If I can find a decent 240V step up transformer, I have a very good laboratory-grade 13.8@18A cont variable (0-18V) power supply I can use as a dedicated power supply for charging the bank on mains.

The solar system will be somewhere around 150W, charging directly into the battery bank with diversion capability in the event of a fully charged bank. My usage is somewhere around 250Wh/day, so it should work pretty well for a test. Once I get this running, I'll work on a larger system to run the pool pump (2.5HP pump that must run 12h a day.)
 
Poor guy is still green.

Anyway, I'd like to make a recommendation: A guy in CT has made his room "Bug out" capable by mounting his power buss in a cabinet, and then color-coding his cabinets. Within a few minutes, his home rig is portable and he's putting wires up in trees.

I'd like to get in on this : I have some family visiting and stuff to do this week, but I'm gonna render a few pictures and plans as I go along.
 
The only problem with that PicoITX power supply is the lack of current draw information. It just doesn't have enough information for me to be willing to build out a MiniITX machine only to find out that it draws too much power for my setup.
 


Looks like the rig works on a 65W power adaptor.

INTEL NUC D34010WYK1 Barebone, Intel® Core™ i3-4010U 1.7GHz, DDR3-1600 SODIMM 16GB /2, mSATA /1, 1x miniDP + 1x mini-HDMI, USB 3.0 /4, GbLAN, 65W PSU : AVADirect Custom Computer Component

The regulator is the best way to go. Regulate the 13.8V down to 12V for the electronics load. I second the Calesta recommendation. Use a regulator that's at least double the load, triple is even better. For a 65W load the 160W rig would be great.
 
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Well, I have 228Ah of capacity right now... Unfortunately Walmart here doesn't have any more of the 114Ah batteries. They expect to get two more for restock sometime in January. :(

Right now the pack is trickle charging and up to around 12.6V, I'll be getting solar panels sometime in January, and hopefully get it running totally on solar by then.

I'm actually looking at a mac mini and loading Kali on it.
 
Best to keep batteries outside of dewlling. Cel's suggestion is a good one for portability as well. Be sure and fuse between batteries an amount about double the anticipated load in amps. For instance, if you are going to put 160W regulator on the system, then about 20A to 30A is where you would want to fuse the setup. Put a fuse inline with the positive terminal of each battery ahead of the common bus.

I've ran Back UPS for several years and over time have consolidated several smaller units to one larger one and then moved it out into my shop. No more UPS's in the HT rack or computer room. I use a 3KW APC Tower Smart UPS out in my shop and it's wired to shop lights, shop LCD TV, HT System and Computer room. Has it's own 30A dedicated circuit with breaker and twist lock plug. Then in a power outage, I have a dedicated 2KW inverter generator for that circuit and a 7.5KW main house generator.

The reason to keep each individual battery fused ahead of the common bus is if one of them goes south the others will fry it (China Syndrome) and could cause a fire and/or NASTY burning acid toxic fumes in your dwelling. Happened to a buddy with couple of APC external 48V rack mount battery packs and smoked his house up pretty bad while he was in there - fortunately he was awake when it happened. They use 60A fuses with 17AH batteries in the APC packs, too much fuse capacity to prevent melt down in the case of a battery failure.

I would also consider putting large diodes between the B+ bus and battery + terminal - that would prevent one battery from feeding another and allow you to charge each battery independently.
 
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I currently have the batteries in the garage charging, they're wired like this:
1521525_10202278698961398_1278383505_n.jpg


Since I can't put these outside, I'm putting them in a rubbermaid PET tub with a vent to the outside, through the attic and into the eves with silicone tubing, a fan will push air from the one-way valve in the battery tub so only exit air goes out the tube. Timer on the fan will run 30 seconds every hour or so.


So, what you're saying is that I should fuse the links between the batteries? Sounds like a good idea. I'll look up some fuses.
 
I currently have the batteries in the garage charging, they're wired like this:
1521525_10202278698961398_1278383505_n.jpg


Since I can't put these outside, I'm putting them in a rubbermaid PET tub with a vent to the outside, through the attic and into the eves with silicone tubing, a fan will push air from the one-way valve in the battery tub so only exit air goes out the tube. Timer on the fan will run 30 seconds every hour or so.


So, what you're saying is that I should fuse the links between the batteries? Sounds like a good idea. I'll look up some fuses.
Yes, between each battery and the common B+ bus. 20A to 30A will be fine for the load you are planning. Automotive type inline would be my choice.

Since inside, ventilation is mandatory. What you have should work ok.
 
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A couple of pics of my setup. It's 5 minutes or less of run time in a blackout depending upon load. Enough time to not be left in the dark and fire up the generators.

APC%20Shop%20UPS%201.jpg


APC%20Shop%20UPS%202.jpg
 
I get the APC UPS's used on eBay for $100 to $150 - just shop for a good deal on a seller with good feedback. Also bought a couple in Dallas at the monthly swap meet for under $50. Bought two real nice 2KW Best Power UPS's at the swap meet for $40 or $50 each. They came from a local hospital lab and work fine.

The setup in the shop, a used 3KW APC UPS and new batteries cost me probably under or right at $300 maybe $325.
 
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