170,xxx mile turbo d16...POSSIBLE????

[SPEEDFREAK0920]

what's up hondaswap. My buddy just picked up an 89 crx si w/ a sohc vtec. he's a mustang guy who went smart! haha well his goal is to run as close to 12's in the 1320 as possible. so far he picked up: full skunk2 coilovers/stg.2 clutch and flywheel/15in rims/srp 9:1 comp pistons (75.25mm)

now the questions: his plans were to turbocharge the rex w/ just adding low-comp pistons and eagle rods as the only internal mods. is his 12 sec goal reasonable?

next: his teacher told him that the pistons he bought WILL NOT fit his cylinders due to the engine having 170k miles. saying that there will be too much blow-by.is this true? i kno,the wear and tear on the cylinder walls from all those miles but i have faith in good ol' honda engines so i don't think this will be a problem.can anyone tell me the oem cylinder diameter?

he also found a complete turbo kit on ebay for $900.i don't think that's a good idea.what do you guys think? i told him to just piece together a turbo kit himself. my buddy has a 14b(1st gen dsm) and 450cc injectors that he'll sell to me for 150.will this turbo make enough power to get this rex to the 12's?

thnx for all the help and suggestions

s1lva

 

[eastonball]

I dont see why the pistons wouldnt fit. If he bores out the block, just get the correct size pistons. If he isn't boring it out get the replacement size pistons, and hone the block. They will fit. I hope this wasn't a shop teacher.

In my experience, Ebay turbo kits are far from complete. hey money you "save" will go into piecing together the necessary parts. There is no cheap way to a turbo. If you/he islooking for a lower priced turbo kit, then atleast get the greddy kit. I think they are roughly 1300 now. Not the best, but it's complete. (You can get an intercooler upgrade for it also).

Keep in mind the mileage of the motor doesn't play much into it's longevity if you are replacing pistons, rods, and bearings. Also make sure you replace oil pump, water pump, timing belt. Also building up a block with a tired head tends to really wear out valve seals. Make sure that you rebuild the head to take on the new lower end. It's not as inexpensive as you think. However doing it right the first time and not having to replace broken parts will save you money in the long run.

Good luck with your build. Glad we turned another mustang owner from the darkside.

 

[EGProject]

Not too knowlageable on the piston fitment issue - but so long as he gets new con-rods and low-comp pistons I don't think he'll have trouble breaking the 12's. Remember though, that he should use all new (good) bearings on the bottom end, and that ARP head studs and a good HG are mandatory when running boost.

Ebay turbokits - more specifically the ones from SSAC - suck balls. Period. Drop money on a Greddy, DRAG, or Edelbrock kit - or peice one together from scratch yourself. But don't skimp on the turbo and the wastegate.

 

[posol]

oem bore size is 75mm.

he will have to bore it out ans re-hone to fit the pistons anyway to seat the rings properly.

ebay turbo kits are garabage.

a 14b probably won'y get you in the 12's either....

 

[SPEEDFREAK0920]

ok so his block will be able to use the pistons he already bought, good news! the 14b won't get him in the 12's...that's kinda shitty. how much,on average,does it cost to put a turbo kit together yourself? would a 1000 budget be good enough?

on another note, he bought a new oem distributor because he thought one of the cylinders wasn't getting spark.well,yesterday he pulled the spark plugs and all 4 of them were dripping with oil! blown valve seals? that's our best bet. he's thinking about just buying a sohc vtec off of ebay for 300.what do you guys think? well thnx again for all the help.

silva

 

[GSRCIVICTN]

If the spark plugs were dripping with oil the you need the tube seals that are normally replaced with a valve gasket. $300 isn't bad. Thing is you'll have to put just as much work into it to get where you want to be. Just rebuild the one you have. Spend that $300 on some OEM goodies(seal, gaskets, etc.).