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1967 Mustang

Discussion in 'Other Vehicle Discussions' started by 99sidude, Jan 16, 2014.

  1. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    The goal is to be finished spring of 2015.

    This is a 1967 Mustang Coupe. Originally a 289 2v with C4 trans. I got the car as a shell, with everything in boxes. The goal is to retain the original character, while making it stop, go, and turn much better. Cosmetically, the car will be painted an original color, get a new original style interior, and get the Shelby style side scoops, deck lid, rear quarter extensions, tail panel, and tail lights. The previous owner had already stripped it down, and done 95% of the metal repair before getting into his 90's and giving up.

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    Last edited: Jan 16, 2014
  2. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    We have stripped the entire car down to bare metal. Used a sand blaster on the bottom side, engine room, and interior. Did it by hand or with orbital sanders on the exterior:
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    Strategic welding was done around the body to improve stiffness. This is where the FR upper A-Arms mount.
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    A Harbor Freight stud welder was used to pull out any dents that can't be hammered out from the back side.
    [​IMG]
     
  3. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Sub frame connectors mocked up
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    KBS epoxy primer was first brushed onto areas that will be covered by the sub frame connectors and passenger side torque box.
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    The sub frame connectors and torque box were welded in, then the bottom of the car, the engine room, and the interior were sprayed in epoxy primer. This KBS stuff is tough. It is difficult to sand blast off.
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  4. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    aaand now shooting epoxy primer onto the exterior.
    [​IMG]
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  5. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    and now the long and tedious project begins. Filling low spots with filler, sanding, and repeating.
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    The front edge of the hood is pretty well fucked. Debating whether to continue or to find another hood.
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    This quarter had been rusted out. It was patched with steel and is now in process of being smoothed out.
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    This door is DONE
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  6. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Here, the fiberglass Shelby / California Special pieces are just set into position.
    [​IMG]
     
  7. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    This picture is the inspiration for the project. The color I have chosen is pretty similar. Shown are the 68' Shelby back end pieces that I have. What do you guys think about the paint color of the tail light panel? Do you like the way it is here, or would you prefer body color?

    Also note that this car is missing the chrome piece that goes along the rocker panel. All they have is the white stripes decal. I welded up the mounting holes on mine, and plan on doing the same.


    [​IMG]
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    For reference, here is a 67 with the stock side scoops, chrome rockers, standard tail lights, deck lid, and tail panel. I think they look a little frumpy.
    [​IMG]
     
  8. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    I think the tail light panel looks a bit out of place in silver. Personally, I'd match the color to the body color.

    This is a nice looking project, great work so far! :thumbsup:
     
  9. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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    Tail light panel needs to be black or body color.



    Fun lookin' project. Block, block, block, block, block, block, block, and block some more.
     
  10. double0Si

    double0Si ლ(ಠ益ಠლ) VIP

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    Look forward to seeing it at Good Guys. ;)
     
  11. neonmike

    neonmike Senior Member VIP

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    I agree taillight panel needs to be black, That thing is remarkably clean. Way better starting point than mine was. I love the blue, are you going to do the side stripes too or no?
     
  12. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    OEM Blue is great! Very nice project. Have you chosen the power plant?

    In HS a close freind had full access to a 1969 mach 1, 375 HP rated 428 Cobra Jet, shaker hood, fun to ride around in. That one was a forest green with black trim.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2014
  13. eg6sir

    eg6sir Supa Mod Moderator VIP

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    matte black on the taillight garnish
     
  14. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Why YES I have:) It's a 351W out of a 96' Bronco with a rusted frame. These newer blocks have the one piece oil seal, and most importantly the factory roller lifters. The guy I got it from is an acquaintance, and it has 126k easy miles on it.

    [​IMG]

    Yes, I'll do the side stripes. At one point this car was super rough. Someone took the time to do the majority of the bitch work before getting sick of it. After taking it down to bare metal it's been evident that they did a fantastic job.

    Yep
     
  15. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    The plan for the engine

    -Strip the 351 down to the short block.
    -Check the cylinder walls. Hopefully all I do is a hone and some new rings.
    -New rod and main bearings. Checking clearances of course.
    -New oil pump, timing set, timing cover, water pump
    -Switch to low tech dizzy
    -Aluminum high performance intake
    -Rebuild the Autolite 600 carb I got.
    -Aluminum rad with electric fan.
    -Long tube headers & 2.5" exhaust with crossover pipe.

    If I can keep this under budget, or if the stock heads are fucked, it's getting aluminum heads and a cam. Right now though the plan is to get it running and driving, and have enough power for some fun.

    No, I am not going to do EFI. The aftermarket setups are $$$, and the foxbody style EFI looks like shit, especially on a classic car.
     
  16. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    I love me some coupes.
     
  17. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    The trans is where I am stumped. I am at a cross road.

    Option 1: T5 swap.
    I need a trans,FW, clutch, clutch pedal assy, T5 swap clutch cable, shortened drive shaft, and fabricated cross member. This setup will be the most fun to thrash, but it's also expensive, and the T5's are known to easily break.

    Option 2. AOD swap.

    With a good torque converter this will be just as quick as the T5, yet easier to drive. The cost to get into is much lower too. My main issue is that these old 4 speeds don't rev out unless you shift them manually.

    For the rear end, I currently have an 8" 2.73:1 with a locker. The plan is 3.73's and a rebuild on the posi.
     
  18. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    Why not a C4?
     
  19. 99sidude

    99sidude Moderator Moderator VIP

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    I've got the original....


    Because I want to put in an aggressive final drive and still be able to cruise at 10 over on the interstate.
     
  20. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    A roller small block will cruise at 70 with 3.73s and no OD. Just a bit higher in the range lol.
     
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