I just recently got a 91 hatch with full b16 swap already in it, the guy i got it from has some money into the motor but ive been trying to troubleshoot what is wrong with it all of the sudden but can figure it out, it ran fine for a few days and now all of the sudden it runs like crap, it started by the engine just cutting off while id be driving and it would take me a minute to get it started again, then it just wouldent start so i replaced the distibutor cap, rotor, wires, plugs, and now it starts just fine, but when i drive it once i hit around 3,000 rpms it seems like the fuel shut off kicks in and the car starts to sputter, an buck, it dose have 2 step launch control which is set to 4,000 rpms, and the fuel shutoff it at 8,200 rpms, and a chipped ecu, i dont know if this stuff would have anything to do with the problem but im just throwing this stuff out there for anyone who might have suggestions get a better ideal of what im dealing with, the car idles perfectly fine its just when i try to drive it it acts up, im kinda new to the site and ive have hondas with swaps but im no mechanic either, ive been trying to trouble shoot this problem and im getting a frustrated please anone with any ideas or thoughts/ suggestions please help me out...i appreciate it greatly
1991 hatch b16 problems..PLEASE HELP
- Thread starter Brian1991
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I think i have just made a huge break through or at least im hoping i did, i was reading a few other posts with kinda the same problems, and i tried some things that kinda helped them out as far as troubleshooting, i was just alloing my car to idle and run till it got hot and i noticed the other day when i couldent get it started that there was a switch in the compartment next to the steering wheel , and also a switch with two wires attached to the ecu, which is a p06-92-95 civic dx, while my car was at idle i just fliped the switch attached to the eecu to see what would happen,....an boom started throwing the cel. which is code number 2 - and for the p06 ecu that code is 02B- oxygen sensor #2, but i can find the code for a 92-95 b16a motor im not sure if it matters because i have the differnt ecu in there but im gonna try it out and ill post with what happens,.....hoping to god it works cuz im getting a little frustrated...
sorry it was cel code 20 not 2 i forgot the long pulses of the cel were ten and i was just happy to make a breakthrough but now i have to deal with a electrical load dectector, any help on that one i have a few things ill try with any luck ill post later to maybe help someone else down the road...
91_stylin_civic
Member
i think that is part of the battery junction box under the hood on the passenger side strut mount. Im not 100% sure. Someone correct me if i am wrong
do you have hondata? is that why your running a sohc ecu with your b16? if you are, take the ecu out and make sure all the connections are good, mine was doing teh same thing. Its going into limp mode when it wont rev over 3 or 4 grand. Thats why it will idle ok and drive but wont hit vtec or rev out.
i was reading a few other posts that had eld code problems and they said to look for a sliced wire that may have been rubbed raw and its usually under the intake manifold i looked but was to dark to see and they also said somthing about the battery junction box i dont rmemeber exactly but maybe replace it or somthing ill see if i cant find the post again.
i dunno if i have hondata, and i dont know why im running the p06 ecu either plus its for an automatic anyways, dont know if that matter either, i did check for loose connections and found one wire not attached that looks like it could have possibly been attached but since the ecu is diffent im not sure where it goes and i didnt see any open slots in the harness, the wire was labeled b12 if that mean anything to anyone,
blasterman87
New Member
well if your running a dx ecu and its automatic then theres one problem unlett its been chipped your vtec wont work and it will rev limit at like 5k, so it must be chipped. and as for the running funny it sounds like a ground to me
the guy said the ecu was chipped and when it was running good i could redline it to 8,200 then the fuel cutoff would kick in but it didnt really feel like vtec hit hard or even at all but i only really got on it twice but it does take off when i got on it i dont drive like a mad man im kind of a granny behind the wheel but where should i check first as far as a ground or should i swap out the ecu.
blasterman87
New Member
check the ground on the tranny, valve cover and there should be one whare the upper radiator hose connects
checked the ground from the tranny to the battery-good, valve cover to the frame-good, but there is no ground near the upper radiator hose anywhere to be found, is that a problem...?