1991 hatchback swap questions

[engineswap5]

Hey guys , just have a few general questions about a B16A1 going into a EF hatch...... so since the first gen b16a1 is OBD 0 does that mean i can use my existing wireing harness and ecu and everything? or will some wiring/ ecu swap need to happen?

other then the b-series mount kit and shifting linkage will i need anything else in that department?

lastly Axel's......... can i use my old d-series axels? or do i need to get b series axels from an integra or something? thx in advance for any help

Let me kno if theres anything else that needs to happen.

 

[ZCHONDACRX91]

You get 90-93 integra axles and intermediate shaft. I would just get Hasport Axles, because people have problems with the DA integra axles. You will need a 90-93 integra intermediate shaft (manual only). You use a B16 ecu, I think its P29? Can't remember. You will need to do a DPFI conversion to MPFI if you have a DX.

 

[engineswap5]

so will the plugs from my harness fit into the b16 ecu? then all i have to do is add the extra wires for MPFI?

 

[YNOT]

first of all wat parts came with the swap ecu motor ext and wat type of model of car u have like other guy said u might have to convert dpfi to mpfi and yes if its a obd 0 jdm ecu

 

[D16SiHatch]

since it sounds like you're dpfi, you will need to convert to mpfi first.

https://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/dpfi-mpfi-writeup-49557/

yes you will retain your stock obd engine harness. even if you were dropping in a obd1 or 2 engine you would still keep the stock one. if you are keeping it obd0 then you obviously wont need the ecu jumper, but you will need the appropriate obd0 b16 ecu. either a pw0 or pr3 will work.

you don't need hasport axles, ones from a da will work fine. driver side needs to be 90-93 manual trans. passenger side can be any teg axles though from 1990-2000, manual/auto trans, abs or non-abs, it doesn't matter. if your car sits fairly low it would be advised to remove the dust rings from the inside of the hubs. it allows more room for the constant velocity joints to move around and prevents them from binding up. which can lead to premature cv failure.

lastly, you will have to add the wires for the vtec oil pressure sensor, and vtec solenoid itself, and you will need to bang out a small area of the inner frame rail to allow clearance for the alternator pulley. if you dont the pulley will actually hit the frame rail. Also if the car is fairly low you might find that while turning right the crank pulley will actually hit the radius rod. in this case you will either have to have someone at a machine shop machine off the outer unneeded p/s and a/c ribs and then balance the pulley. or you can just by a ctr n1 pulley, which only has the ribs for the alternator belt.

 

[JDMBill]

hey guys, thanks for the info. I was just looking for this info because i was interested in getting an EF but all the SI ones (the few that there is near me) are all beat up, rusted or riced out. I found some cleaner DX models cheap and wanted to just go ahead and do the jdm b16 OBD0 swap.

So the main issue for this swap would be converting the DX harness to MPFI and wiring up the Vtec stuff?