1991 Japanese Prelude Import!

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ChazVTEC

Junior Member
Hi,

This is my first post, so I'm sorry if it is in the wrong forum.

My Dad has a 2.2 VTI Vtec Prelude. 1991 Japanese import, but it's the same shape as the 1992 Prelude.

He has taken it to be serviced, its got 90k on the clock and apparently it still has the original honda cam belt on. Apparently the cam belt (timing belt?) tensioners has adjusted so much that they have seized in a position from which they won't move.

Can anyone help with telling us how to slacked the tensioner off etc??


Pics would be a great help or an in-depth explanation would be amazing.

Thank you all in advance for your help!!

Chaz
 
It's the tensioners that have seized. The parts that gradually adjust.. They adjusted so much that they're now stuck at the maximum reach - just needed to know a way they can be slackened??
 
Originally posted by cycloneb18c3@May 20 2004, 09:05 PM
cut the old belt...then un bolt the tensioner and throw it in the trash...get new tensioner, and new belt.
Click to expand...

basicly what he said. 90k is the time to get a new belt. Buy a new tentioner too. What engine code is it? Also replace the ballance shaft belt while your at it.
 
DOn't fuck around with the auto-tensioner. Replace everything already. It's worth it in the long run.

Auto Tensioner @ $65 < New Valve train (after broken timing belt)
 
The engine code is H22A.

Dads getting the balance shaft belt replaced already. I called him and told him about buying a new auto-tensioner!

He said the guy at the garage is gonna be pissed cause the cars up on the ramp - but hey not my problem?!!

I'll get some pics of the car after we get the alloys all polished up and looking good again. Also it's had a rear near side damage which is going to be sorted.

But other than all the neglect from the past owners, it's an amazing car for $1600!!!

Would you think getting a VTEC controller fitted is a good idea?

Thanks for all your help - you guys have been great
 
Not if the car is essentially stock. A VTEC controller is only really beneficial if your are dyno tuning and using important performance parts that will change the powerband (i.e. cams, high compression pistons, any kind of forced induction).
 
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