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1995 Civic DX: To buy or not to buy, that is the qustion...

Discussion in 'Civic and del Sol - EG and EK' started by fattygone, Apr 6, 2010.

  1. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    Last edited: Apr 8, 2010
  2. wikedeye

    wikedeye Well-Known Member

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    It doesn't look too bad. The engine alone could cost $2000. I say if you are in the area try and have it checked out before you buy it. If you get it you have to get rid of those 18"s though.
     
  3. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    Would there be any concerns in particular I would need to look out for with such a body that has had an accident? Also I believe the body has 120k miles on it... My brother is telling me that there are going to be a bunch of likely problems because of this...

    Need I worry about the body that much?
     
  4. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    Also, The stock engine has been replaced with a JDM B16A, and I was wondering if there would be any compatibility problems I should worry about?

    Open to all who have any ideas!
    Thanks!
     
  5. 95b16coupe

    95b16coupe New Member

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    i would pass. there is a guy on here selling a really clean eg hatch for $2900. i would get that before the ebay junk.
     
  6. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Why would the mileage on the body cause problems? More info please. Did he mention any specific type of concern?

    Once again, more info please. What kind of "compatability problems" are you talking about? If the swap was done competently, then it should be fine. The B16 is a natural fit for that chassis.

    Honestly though, I'd skip this car. The body looks beat. It looks riced out, and those 18" rims are a horrible choice for a Civic...
     
  7. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    1995 Honda Civic Hatchback.
    This car is a work in progress and has major overhauling done to it.
    ________________________________________________________
    -It has a JDM B16A Engine installed with 0 miles after overhaul.
    -Since installation it has less than 2000 miles on it.
    -Rebuilt transmission
    -New Clutch (replaced at time of engine swap).
    -Refurbished harness
    -ECU replaced.
    ________________________________________________________
    The car has visible PHYSICAL blemishes, but is Mechanically sound.
    Currently the car runs good, starts right up, and does drive.

    Recommended fixes before heavy driving would be brakes, oil change, and thermostat. Beyond that the car is good to go as is.
    _________________________________________________
    Current installed aftermarket parts:
    -In dash stereo with LCD screen (w/ AV jack)
    -Cold air intake
    -Shock Coil Overs(Also comes with adjuster wrenches)
    -18" Billet Aluminum Wheels
    -HID Headlights
    -Carbon Fiber style Tail Lights
    -B16A Engine
    -All leads for subs run to the back hatch
    -Braided Hose for Nitrous system already run
    -LED foot lighting system
    Accessories that will come with car at time of purchase:
    -Side rails (2 sets)
    -Front+Back Bumper (New)
    -2 front "Shark Gill" fenders (New never installed)
    -Muffler (Import Tuner Style)
    -Replacement tweeters for the front doors
    -Manual (Chilton)
    -Racing Tach (Manual for car maybe?)
    -Shaved door handles
    -Back-lit after market gages
    (And More - whatever else I can find
    that was purchased NEW for this car...)
    ____________________________________________
    (Question about High heat and emissions)
    Q:you say Thermo, brakes and Oil?
    Why the thermo, is it overheating?
    Why oil, just because you have 200 miles on it?
    Will this pass e check?
    Are you required to have E check where you reside?

    A:
    It has not overheated BUT the heat did get high and I would
    change the thermo as a precaution. The engine is shipped with preservation oil and often is reused oil. That is most likely mixed with the oil so it would be a good idea to swap. I am not required an emission check where I live so I am unsure but being a new motor and computer it should be in good shape. If the oil and thermo is a deal breaker say so and it will be done prior to release of sale. I have no problem doing it just have not had a need to yet since I am not driving it.


    That's what is said about the car.

    Compatibility wise, I was concerned that the engine swap
    and new ECU might mean I would have to mess with things for
    it to run correctly.

    And yes, I see it looks a bit beat.. I was sort of hoping maybe I could work on things over time, with the help of this forum...
    Butt I bet you know these cars better than I do (I don't have much experience).
     
  8. 95b16coupe

    95b16coupe New Member

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    that car is a piece of shit. buy the yellow eg in the for sale section. it's 2583491750348957134890571903485713904578 better.
     
  9. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    Why is it so bad? I'm not trying to defend it here... I just want to know.

    And I looked at that car, but it would be a no-go, because it's 15 hours south of where I live, Michigan. :(
     
  10. 95b16coupe

    95b16coupe New Member

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    thermostat leads me to believe the headgasket could be bad. brakes take time and money to fix. why is the oil bad? it shouldnt' be.

    plus, the paint sucks. bumpers fucked, and the wheels are garbage.

    spend $900 more and get a killer car. it's worth the time. fly southwest airlines for $80 and drive it home.

    keep shopping, there are better deals out there.
     
  11. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    Thanks :)

    I wasn't planning much on getting this anymore... It does come with
    2 new bumpers though, and he said the oil might be recycled stuff
    because it was what was in the block when he got it... And if the thermo was the issue... then that'd set it alright..

    Brakes? Hmm... I've done those before, unless there's something tricky about these civics...

    but yeah, I agree. My brother's guessing V-joints are prolly worn as well as rust condition.

    Again, thanks. I'll keep looking... I have time.
     
  12. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    I forgot about the flying idea... but It would need to be running
    well... I don't have the kind of skills it takes to fix motors
    and such...
     
  13. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    I know I probably won't get it, but it's re listed without reserve for 1500, for bidding... So I think it's worth considering to part out anyways..
     
  14. bluejcivic

    bluejcivic New Member

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  15. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    Hmm, I don't know if the engine is included? Or if that's a separate sale.. Nice find though. Pretty looking shell, that's for sure..;)
    (Besides, I can't install an engine.. or do Major work)
     
  16. bluejcivic

    bluejcivic New Member

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    if you can tie your shoes, you can do a motot swap, its that easy.
     
  17. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    As long as an appropriate ECU is used and OBD issues are dealt with then motor swaps like this should run perfectly fine. My concern is more with the beat up condition of the body...
     
  18. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    I hear you about the body. Could you tell me general body concerns? I'm new to a lot of car stuff, and aside from the bottom being rusted out, I'm not sure what else I'd worry about for the body?
    (Aside from paint and scratches)

    Or are you saying that the beat up body is indicating that there will be other problems?
     
  19. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    It doesn't necessarily indicate other problems, I'm just talking about the fact that the body looks beat up. Are you okay with driving it around like that? Or, are you okay with spending a bunch of money on it in order to make it look better? I just think if you look around you could find one in better condition that wouldn't require as much exterior work.

    As for the rust, I honestly wouldn't worry too much about rust on the undercarriage. Most older cars, even ones from down south where the winters aren't as harsh, will have some surface rust on the undercarriage. It's just because that area's not painted and sealed meticulously like the body panels of the car are.

    A lot of older Hondas do have a different rust problem though. When you're looking at cars be sure to check the rear quarter panels (right above the rear wheels) for rust. You'll see some that are absolutely rotten there, and then you'll see others that have rust bubbles starting to form there. If you get one that's in the early phase of rust then most likely it will be rotted out in a few more years if it's not taken care of...
     
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  20. fattygone

    fattygone New Member

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    I didn't think the exterior was too bad... different colored top paint, cracked fenders, and a small rust spot on the drivers rear quarter...
    (Can I replace the rear quarter panel?)
    (It is coming with 2 brand new fenders :)
    [​IMG]

    More so i was concerned about all the rust and oxidation going on under the hood... But it only looks like it's bolts, clips, and
    nuts, which I can replace relatively cheap, right?

    Most of the hoses appear in good condition, wires don't look bad either (although a bit jumbled).

    Further thoughts anyone? :D
     
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