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1995 GSR B18C1 Complete Rebuild

Discussion in 'Engine Building' started by RED_95_GSR, May 10, 2004.

  1. RED_95_GSR

    RED_95_GSR Junior Member

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    i have decided to go ahead and completely rebuild my B18C1. here are my plans. lemme know what you think

    -complete port and polish of head
    -block acid dipped and polished
    -Skunk 2 Intake Manifold
    -Skunk 2 Valves
    -Skunk 2 Titanium Retainers
    -Toda Racing Dual Valve Springs
    -Toda Racing Spec B Camshafts
    -Toda Racing Adj. Cam Gears
    -Toda Racing Metal Head Gasket
    -Crower Stroker Kit 84 mm bore x 95 mm stroke
    -Darton Deck Sleeves
    -Hondata ECU
    -Bosch 440cc Injectors
    -AEM Fuel Rail and Fuel Pressure Regulator
    -Bosch 225 lph In Tank Fuel Pump


    -Type R Transmission w/ LSD, Cryo Treated and Shot Peened
    -Clutchmasters Stage 3 Clutch
    -Fidanza Lightweigth Flywheel

    also does this look like a good setup for an additional vortech supercharger and nos 75 shot direct port nitrous system in the future
     
  2. RED_95_GSR

    RED_95_GSR Junior Member

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    someone lemme know if this is a good build-up or not. i wanna make sure it is the right stuff to use as far as performance and future plans
     
  3. lsvtec

    lsvtec GNU/Linux Evangelist

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    I wish you the best of luck with that 95mm stroker kit. Personally I wouldn't go any bigger than an LS crank in there because now we are talking seriously short rods. I have always been on the side of R/S ratio not meaning much but 1.4:1 starts looking a little to low for high RPM. I don't have any experience with it so I cannot say for sure what will happen.

    For a long time people here told me not to go with Skunk2 valves but no one could tell me why. I am going to reccomend against them and here is why: I have had mine in for almost 18 months now and I have to do valve lash about once a week to keep them from making a hell of a lot of noise. Unless you are planning on resizing your valves just go with ITR valves. If you absolutely want aftermarket I hear that Ferrea valves are high quality.

    An unconfirmed rumor I have heard is that Ti retainers go out very quickly. I have had mine for 18 months and about 14K miles and they are still fine so I don't know what to say about longevity there.
     
  4. exospeed*com

    exospeed*com Member

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    you don't have to do a stroker kit to make power. a basic big bore sleeved block is good enough and will be reliable. we can make 250HP easy on jsut big bore blocks. why make it more complicated and spend more money on a stroker motor.

    and R/S ratio... dont even dwell on that. some will argue that a better R/S ratio will be more reliable. dood. we are all building performance motors here. R/S ratio is over hyped for our motors. you can spend the extra money to get the perfect rod/stroke ratio, while others will spend half the money to get the same amt of power and reliability as a basic motor.

    There is the rumor of Ti retainers wearing out quickly, but honestly we hav ebeen using Ti retainers for years and I personally had a set and drove it for 3 years and 100K miles with no problem. So dont even sweat on that too.

    There are other valve companies that are also good. REV, Supertech, etc. you dont have to go with SKunk2.
     
  5. Import Builders

    Import Builders Senior Member

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    Red GSR, what exospeed said, with more to add.

    Why do you have the most expensive parts on the market in your list? You can get better parts for as much as 50% less cost than those. You can use the extra money you save for suspension and interior, or a sound system.

    Jeff
     
  6. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    :werd:

    It looks like you flipped open the high price catalogs and started pointing at stuff. You can easily top $10k with your list!

    If I was going to go all out with a 95mm crank, I'd go with a one inch deck plate and an 86mm bore.

    :lol:
     
  7. Import Builders

    Import Builders Senior Member

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    there is also, like Will said, no need for a stroker kit on the street. In fact it sucks in my opinion. Too much torque.

    Your already never going to hook up in first gear with like 220 WHP, you add that crank, your going slower.

    Jeff
     
  8. RED_95_GSR

    RED_95_GSR Junior Member

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    thanks for the input guys. as far as the prices i wasnt really worried about how much the stuff costs. ive been savin for a long time and i want my motor to show it. but, if i can save the amount of money yall are talkin about what are some parts that i could use that are just as good but at a lower price.

    as far as the stroker kit, why is it such a bad idea? i mean ya said it would makle a lot of torque, and i thought that was what hondas really lacked. just askin cause i wanna make sure that everything is gonna turn out the way that i want it to.

    also is there anyway possible for me to get somewhere in the range of 275-280 at the wheels without goin turbo or SC. and if i make that kind of power at the wheels wouldnt gettin the ITR tranny with the limited slip help me get more to the ground? some people have told me that it is jsut gonna cause me to break CV axles like crazy.

    i appreciate any info you guys can give me.

    peace
     
  9. Import Builders

    Import Builders Senior Member

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    275 WHP? thats going to cost about 15 grand all in all to get that power, and then use it correctly without a blower or turbo. No nos.

    less torque in a honda is better than more, unless you want to spend like 3-5k on the suspension, wheels, tires, differentials, trannies.

    less torque = better.

    more torque = slower

    Street car.

    Jeff
     
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