1996 Integra Build (B18B1)

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Well as of today I got bigger problems. Ran down to Largo (20mins south) to look at a slammed NICE teg with a blown auto tranny for 1500 (negotiated to 1100) which makes sense for me cause I got a spare auto tranny from my 97 GS, swap the transmissions, flip it for 3k~, profit..

So all this is good right? Well on the way back I was running 80 on highway 19 (our main thoroughfare) and just enjoying my car at 4200rpms lol. And then when I came off the overpasses and hit lights, the motor started making some weird noises. I got home and my engine bay was oily, I checked the dipstick and lo and behold, not enough oil to show on the dipstick. I'm really hoping I didnt do any damage to the motor and now I have a leak to chase.

BUT. I sold more parts, and I should be able to make a couple grand real quick off this next Teg. So mixed emotions lol.
 
Hondas are pretty resilient, I've seen some of them run for quite a while without oil. Yours is obviously a little different, but I'd probably drain what's left of the oil, change the filter, add oil, start, let it run for a few, then change the oil again to be sure there isn't a bunch of shavings and chit running through the engine.
 
So it was a cam seal we're pretty sure. I have really mixed feelings towards the shop that did my work. I think what happened is the old guy did the machine work which is why that came out so nice, and the younger guy put it together which is the source of all these problems.

In any case it seems to be running well. I re timed it with the help of my dad and i think everything stuck like it was supposed to.

My next problem is the threads in the block for the driver's side mount are too weak to hold a bolt at any real pressure, so my dad suggested spraying the holes out with brake cleaner and then using threadlock on some new, less worn bolts. I also picked up that second Teg.

I had read you're not supposed to make the tensioner bolt too tight but I tightened it and when i revved the motor it loosened and the belt was rotating looser, so I tightened it again, more, and it seems to have took but it feels like it lost a little bit of that original tension. Could this just be the tensioner adjusting itself? I don't wanna get up to 8000rpms and have the belt jump a tooth or something like that

Also, how much is a clean Type R head worth these days? has VTEC solenoid and cams and the whole assembly
 
My next problem is the threads in the block for the driver's side mount are too weak to hold a bolt at any real pressure, so my dad suggested spraying the holes out with brake cleaner and then using threadlock on some new, less worn bolts. I also picked up that second Teg.

I had read you're not supposed to make the tensioner bolt too tight but I tightened it and when i revved the motor it loosened and the belt was rotating looser, so I tightened it again, more, and it seems to have took but it feels like it lost a little bit of that original tension. Could this just be the tensioner adjusting itself? I don't wanna get up to 8000rpms and have the belt jump a tooth or something like that

Also, how much is a clean Type R head worth these days? has VTEC solenoid and cams and the whole assembly

The tensioner should hold tension in the belt. If it's a new belt, it should stretch a bit and loosen up slightly over time but it really should not be noticeable after one start. That is one bolt that should always be torqued to spec.

I paid 300 for a mostly complete GSR head a few years ago. If I had to guess, I'd say a complete, clean Type R cylinder head would fetch around $550-700 depending on miles and who you're selling it to.
 
So I took the Teg to "test and tune" night at Showtime Dragstrip and my friend brought his RSX Type-S he just bought. His wife took videos and we had a lot of fun, but the Teg appears to have an issue.

All but one time when I launched it, I would run the RPMs up a little bit, and then in the same one second span slip the clutch and mash the gas, and it would sputter, drop the RPMs, and then start to pick up. Which made for a major killjoy at the track. Any idea what this could be? The only time it didn't do this to me I slipped the clutch painfully slow and didn't jump hard at all so it could slowly grab and go. This morning I launched it the same way it's supposed to (the first way) and it launched fine. Any thoughts?

In other news, a stock RSX Type-S with an Injen CAI took out a modded 06-09 Civic SI, and a brand new Mustang with bolt-ons on the 1/8th mile track.
 
Traction may lead to bog.
 
So now that cash flow seems to have increased (sold the type R head for 500, which comes up to a 575$ net gain on the parts integra I bought) I'm wondering about more parts. Namely building up the head for boost. My questions:

I have a stock B18b1 head that has been ported and polished and milled out to what the "racing gasket" kit would allow. After doing a bunch of research I'm realizing LS cams are.... pretty crappy for big-ish horsepower. lol. BUT. As my coworker reminded me, you can always get aftermarket camshafts. Also I think I have a small leak from one of my injectors so rather than just bandage the issue I'm thinking about just going ahead and upgrading the Injectors.

My questions to the ever-knowledgeable Hondaswap community (I'm looking at you, Matt) are:

What cams are good reliable and not liable to break and good for boost applications? Do I have to get variable cam gears, springs, retainers etc?
What injectors would suffice for what I'm trying to do? Do I just replace the injectors or is there more? Do I need OBD1 injectors for my OBD1 ecu?

I'm very novice with anything and everything boost related. I'm sure my brother would know more but you guys always have pretty good advice so I figured iI'd get ya'lls take on it. Thanks.
 
My advice for the injectors is to get a size that is rated in your power range or what you are building for. For example you aren't going to want to put 1000cc injectors in your stock engine now because you are planning on boosting it later on. It will just give you tons of problems trying to get them tuned to run at an output of about 20-30% capacity. Your stock injectors should be 240cc's.
 
you can't just put larger injectors in.... you'll need to retune for it. So, unless you have a full tunable set up/computer ready to go and dyno time booked, it's probably not worth it right now. If you got a leaker, you can probably find a stock injector anywhere for a few bucks. almost all obd d and bseries are 240cc. obd2 will work but use different plugs, so just get obd1 so they plug in.

cams - some cams require adjustable cam gears so they can be set to the recommended spec, ie, +2/-2 per the brand. other's, it won't be necessary. Most will require strong springs and you might as well do the retainers while you're in there too.

This is why most people just go vtec... by the time you spend the 500 ish on the parts to get gsr-ish cam profiles in there, you could have just put a gsr head on the damn thing and had a better flowing top end on there.

If you want to stay non vtec, that's cool too-- just know that the money isn't the motivator.

If you're not building the bottom end (ie, better rods), I'd recommend BC stage2 turbo grind cam or 402t. These turbo grinds generally have higher lift but near stock duration. Gives you like 800 ish more top end rpm of power band over stock and a couple points bump all throughout the power band.

If you are and are going to rev out with the head work and better bottom end, are doing rods, pistons, and oil pump water pump from gsr, etc, and are going to use a turbo that flows some cfm's, using all motor cams has been shown to make big numbers. 404s are making crazy power from 6000 up and have about the same available mid range as stock... It really depends how streetable you want your powerband vs max all out gain against your build standard
 
You should really try spending some time in a high powered honda/integra. Daily street use/spirited driving requires WAYYYY less horsepower than probably the number you are thinking of. If you aren't building a 1/4 mile track car, I would stay away from anything over the 300hp range. You simply don't get a whole lot better driving experience by spending all the money it takes to get there.

Odds are, if you have a clean engine, with a decent turbo and GREAT tune, the horsepower and torque range will be perfect for daily driving and will leave you with more money for other stuff.
 
you can't just put larger injectors in.... you'll need to retune for it. So, unless you have a full tunable set up/computer ready to go and dyno time booked, it's probably not worth it right now. If you got a leaker, you can probably find a stock injector anywhere for a few bucks. almost all obd d and bseries are 240cc. obd2 will work but use different plugs, so just get obd1 so they plug in.

cams - some cams require adjustable cam gears so they can be set to the recommended spec, ie, +2/-2 per the brand. other's, it won't be necessary. Most will require strong springs and you might as well do the retainers while you're in there too.

This is why most people just go vtec... by the time you spend the 500 ish on the parts to get gsr-ish cam profiles in there, you could have just put a gsr head on the damn thing and had a better flowing top end on there.

If you want to stay non vtec, that's cool too-- just know that the money isn't the motivator.

If you're not building the bottom end (ie, better rods), I'd recommend BC stage2 turbo grind cam or 402t. These turbo grinds generally have higher lift but near stock duration. Gives you like 800 ish more top end rpm of power band over stock and a couple points bump all throughout the power band.

If you are and are going to rev out with the head work and better bottom end, are doing rods, pistons, and oil pump water pump from gsr, etc, and are going to use a turbo that flows some cfm's, using all motor cams has been shown to make big numbers. 404s are making crazy power from 6000 up and have about the same available mid range as stock... It really depends how streetable you want your powerband vs max all out gain against your build standard

Alright that makes good sense. The bottom end is already built with eagle 9:1 rods pistons studs etc and if I remember correctly Matt used the same setup in his block so the bottom end is built as much as it's going to be. Does this change the recommendation for what cams I should get?
 
its carbed... dont even think twice about getting it.
As in don't think twice and forget it exists or don't think twice and snatch it up? I'm wondering if I can get it for like $400 if I could clean it, fix what needs fixing and flip it for around 1-1.5k$
 
The thing about flipping is "how much is your time worth"? For me, I used to want to flip hondas. By the time I would search, buy, fix, and sell, I'd net maybe $500 each. Probably spend 100 hours each. My time was worth more than $5/hour. I could have been at work making $15/hour.

Flip for parts or flip for profit. IMHO, if you really want to flip, save a little money and get more expensive cars. You'll get a better return.

I like following this guy online. He has good stories. http://www.apidaonline.com/index.php/articles/art-of-the-flip
 
Alright that makes good sense. The bottom end is already built with eagle 9:1 rods pistons studs etc and if I remember correctly Matt used the same setup in his block so the bottom end is built as much as it's going to be. Does this change the recommendation for what cams I should get?
eagles are pretty good for 3-400.
i'd probably just throw some 404's in there with a good set of retainers/etc and call it a day. it will be a little under compression'ed while all motor, but will be fun with the turbo. and if you decide you don't like their power band, there's a better resale market for them than 402t's
 
Thanks for all the feedback guys. I think cams and valvetrain are next on the list. I took it on the interstate Sunday for the first time and did 80mph in the left lane the whole way and it handled it super well. Went up to 100 for a while just to see how it would go and it was still pretty good which surprised me considering I thought camber was supposed to screw that stuff up.

IMG_20160228_133916.jpg
And then I took a pretty good picture at the restaurant
 
If the pavement is good, camber won't be noticed. If you get on a road that has some 'wear lanes' from like heavy trucks/etc that get grovy, you'll get pulled and tossed around a bit.
 
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