Harford County, Maryland I'd like to trade this partially finished project car for a daily driver Honda from 1987 forward. I'm going back to school and won't have time to finish converting this car, or do another engine swap as I'd prefer to, any time soon. I could use another DD instead of having this sitting in the driveway being neglected when someone could be wrenching on it. I'm thinking this scenerio: you may have an older reliable, decent, but humdrum, run-of-the-mill Honda that is perhaps a second or third car, and you've been thinking of getting rid of it to free up some space for a project car. Or you've got a plain jane Honda that you've been think of modifying but don't have the funds for a swap right now and money for all the other big and little modifications. Well, trade me and you're about 75% there. Here's my stipulation for the trade: it needs to have recently passed state safety inspection and emissions, which would mean that the unibody, tranny, suspension and engine are decent, that the engine has good compression, that there is no broken glass, and no illegal tint, and the heater/defroster work (sure working A/C would be a plus but who cares). Also, it must be be a manual (please, no automatics), and have a maximum of around 185,000 miles. Be sure to mention how things look under the valve cover and if there are any major issues I should be aware of. As a point of reference, I'm valuing this vehicle at about $2,700 so the car you are offering in trade should be worth somewhere around that much. Of course send pictures, plenty of them, and tell me your location. I don't care what model Honda it is, as long as it has passed state safety and emissions recently (no point getting into another project car). If it's an '87-'90 and it's a Maryland-registered car, it may have Historic Tags on it. That's fine but it still has to be mechanically and structurally sound (please, no out-right beaters or rust buckets). Here is what needs to be done on this car, to the very best of my knowledge and analytical abilities. I would appreciate the same level of detailed info regarding your car. This Accord is a '96, and that requires an OBD2 engine to pass MD, PA, or VA emissions. The JDM engine it has in it is OBD1 so it needs to be converted to OBD2 in order for the car to pass emissions in those states (and most if not all others). Basically you can either convert this OBD1 engine to OBD2 by changing the sensors and getting an OBD2 ECU or if you have a collection of engines and car bodies in various states of completion, you can look at this car as a seperate OBD1 JDM engine and an OBD2 rolling chassis. Then you can do something like this: take your OBD1 rolling chassis ('95 or older) and drop the '93 JDM OBD1 engine in it, and then take your OBD2 engine and drop it in this OBD2 chassis. That was my preferred plan before my situation changed. I was keen on making two cars out of one The car is driveable in it's current condition, but I would limit that to just very short neighborhood test drives. I would not drive it for any more than a mile or two until the conversion is completed, the drive shaft has been replaced, and the brakes are thoroughly checked. THE GOOD: '96 4-door USDM Honda Accord w/ '93 JDM H22A engine taken out of a Prelude and imported to U.S. via Canada from Japan 147,000 miles on the body, 54,000 on the engine body looks excellent, no rust and only minor cosmetic flaws: a few small dings, some small dents, various minor scratches the undercarriage looks great, no rust whatsoever clean AutoCheck: no accidents, no flood damage, no salvage (see copy) custom catback 2.5" exhaust to Megan muffler, headers, and CAI JDM H22A Blacktop came out of a Japanese Domestic Market 4th gen Prelude Si VTEC (see copy of paperwork) removed valve cover and saw no sludge or gumming, just some light varnish, engine appears well-maintained compression is excellent: 180 psi in each cylinder no signs of nitrous oxide having been used on the engine bottom end rebuilt -Eagle rods -Darton sleeves -type S pistons -polished and balanced crank -head gasket replaced w/steel head gasket from Nippon Racing -type S head (port and polished) -type S camshafts -type S valve train F22B2 transmission ACT street lite flywheel (F22B2) ACT clutch (6 puck) Dropzone racing coilover kit (full kit) no cutting or welding of suspension OBD1 conversion with P13 ECU tuned by Jun with custom adapter harness made from Accord and Prelude harnesses camber kit turn signals all work has legal tint job, 35% THE BAD: one wheel has "curb rash" 4 tires are all low on tread windshield needs replacement CEL is on (needs that OBD1 to OBD2 conversion completed) left axle prob needs replacement, telltale clicking hood release cable needs to be replaced battery hold down is needed one headlight only low-beam works, other headlight only high-beam works, hence both need replacement tail lights cracked, need replacement pry marks in aluminum trim around top of passenger door (attempted break-in) passenger door lock cosmetic damage (attempted break-in) may need a knock sensor needs 02 sensor driver side door switch and door regulator needed driver side door panel included but needs to be reinstalled brakes feel a bit soft, car stops fine, but needs some kind of brake work or brake adjustment THE UGLY: OBD1 to OBD2 conversion needs to be completed, which means: 1)current OBD1 engine sensors need to be supplemented by OBD2 sensors (i.e. need to add more sensors) 2)OBD1 ECU needs to be replaced by OBD2 ECU 3)engine harness needs to be replaced, or rewired THE NOT SO UGLY: My "two cars from one" idea I don't have time to see through to fruition: -get a '95 or older rolling chassis and a '96 engine or maybe a bit newer ('97,'98, etc. but avoid immobilizer-equipped ones to avoid headaches) -toss the '96 or newer engine into this car -toss this JDM engine in a '95 or older rolling chassis The engine sell one / buy one idea: -sell the '93 JDM Prelude engine, use to money to cover part or all of the purchase cost of a '96 engine, thus dodging the whole OBD issue The sit on it for 4 years till it's historic idea: self-explanatory, and my back up plan !! -if you have a great junkyard / auto wreckers nearby, you can find 99% of these parts cheaply, CraigsList and eBay are also a good source -if you're in the Balto, MD area, I would highly recommend Crazy Ray's "U" PICK IT "U" PULL IT in Baltimore and Edgewood THE INDIFFERENT: -looks like the previous owner began to shave the emblems but only got as far as detaching the LX badge on the trunk -the back seat and all the floor carpeting could use some spray n vac cleaner, but not bad, as is -the driver floor mat has a wear hole in the center -the bumpers have some dings and black marks from other bumpers rubbing against -front left turn signal light is loose -wires hanging down inside right wheel well and have been spliced; need a clean resplicing and wheel well guard reinstalled to protect them -has a jerry-rigged wire to pop open the hood, needs a hood release cable -the only significant dents it has are on the left rear wheel well and even those are minor -it has various scratches (hard to see in photos), somebody keyed it while it was in a parking garage -there is a white spot that won't come off above the right wheel well about one and a half inches in diameter looks like a kid dripped ice cream on it and it dried -the stereo system works, speakers all work, who cares you'll put your own in anyway -coilovers may need to be cranked up to pass inspection, depending on how picky your inspector is regarding lowered cars HAPPY MOTORING That's all I can think of after wracking my brains for a few hours trying to come up with anything and everything you need to know about this car Of course, don't hesitate to ask questions. You can post questions here or p/m me via this forum.If you need specific photos posted of something, just ask. I much prefer a local trade, but if you want to buy it the price is $2,700 and I feel that considering the excellent rust-free, damage / accident-free condition of the body and the nice low-mileage JDM Prelude engine in it that this price is fair and thus minimally negotiable. The stock vehicle, with this mileage, and before mods sells for about $3,600 around here. I deducted $900 from that average stock selling price because that's how much it would cost me in total parts (and outside labor for stuff I couldn't do myself) to get this car on the road. If I do not get any appealing local trade offers, or local cash offers, it's going up on eBay Motors. I will announce that here, if that is the case. That will give an opportunity for all you folks that are far from MD/VA/PA to put a bid on it if you so desire, and have it shipped to you by one of the eBay Motors affiliated shippers. Just a side-note: I have been on eBay for over 9 1/2 years and have 100% positive feedback with never a neg or even a neutral mark or comment on my feedback record. Many thanks and happy motoring! P.S. BE SURE TO READ THE PHOTO FILE NAMES CAREFULLY, THEY ARE NOT GENERIC! THEY ARE DESCRIPTIVE AND CONTAIN LOTS OF IMPORTANT DETAILS ABOUT THE PHOTOS !!