2.0 gsr build questions

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Senior Member
hey,
i have most of my parts now and its ready to start the 1996.6cc b block:

00 JDM Sir-G b18c bare block
89mm stroke LS crank
eagle 137mm rods from calesta.....haven't paid yet :D but will soon
wiseco 84.5mm 12:5:1 compression pistons with my b16 head
just bought some wiseco rings.....120 bux!
golden eagle sleeves with 84.5mm bore
jdm honda N1 enduro crank pulley 1.8lb

now i still have to get the following parts from the local honda dealer:

oem bearings <--- could somebody please list what i'll have to get at the dealer? i just have a bare block

sensors <--- what should be replaced and what i can keep using from my b16?

oem gsr timing belt

gsr oil pump <--- should i get a ITR unit or is it waste of money?

thanks
chris
 
sorry the civic's a 96 and i'll be running a stock b16a head until i get enough money to buy the m24 cams and valvetrain (www.m24x.com). i'll also be running a jun program p28 with vafc, planning to get hondata when both the head and the block are finished.

also forgot about the apr head bolts.
 
You didn't tell me that you definitely wanted the rods yet... but I'll take that as a yes.

:)

Bearings- you'll want to match up the bearings codes between the crank and block to see what color code bearings you need for each spot, order them, then install and check clearances- repeat installation with different types of bearings per journal until you're satisfied with the clearances on your plastigage strips.

If you're going to spend the cash to get an ITR fuel pump, just get a big Walbro 255lph pump. You'll have more than enough flow for pretty much any streetable all motor B block build, and it's really not that much more- like $120 maybe for the pump.
 
for the main bearings, look on your block and look on the crank. there should be 5 letters (one for each main journal) on the block where the oil pan goes on the flywheel side of the motor. you read these letters as pulley end to flywheel end from left to right. you match these letters with corresponding numbers on the crank.

for the rod bearings, look on the connecting rod itself on the side and it will have half stamps on the top of the rod and half on the bottom. match that number with corresponding letters on the crank. this may not work since you have eagle rods, so i guess you will just have to do trial and error with different colors til you get one thats within spec. unless eagle has specific bearings...

but you really need a helms to get the chart and find out what numbers and letters on the crank do what. hope i helped a little.
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Mar 3 2004, 03:28 PM
You didn't tell me that you definitely wanted the rods yet... but I'll take that as a yes.

:)

Bearings- you'll want to match up the bearings codes between the crank and block to see what color code bearings you need for each spot, order them, then install and check clearances- repeat installation with different types of bearings per journal until you're satisfied with the clearances on your plastigage strips.

If you're going to spend the cash to get an ITR fuel pump, just get a big Walbro 255lph pump. You'll have more than enough flow for pretty much any streetable all motor B block build, and it's really not that much more- like $120 maybe for the pump.

bah mike you beat me to it, but hes talking about the ITR oil pump not the fuel pump :p
 
okay, the block is out getting sleeved, and i just purchased the walbro 255 fuel pump.


should i upgrade anything in the fuel delivery system other than injectors? i'll be getting some RC injectors, what flowrate should i get with the setup? saturated?


the block setup is above, 2.0 gsr with 12:5:1 compression
the head will consist: rocket motorsports head package (cams, valvetrain) and a PnP job.

sidenote: rocket motorsports' cams, the m24's have been kicking toda c's and jun 3's ass on the dyno and i'll be getting them for 700 for the cam + valvetrain. killer deal. www.m24x.com

thanks! :worthy:
 
Cool. If you're tuning with Hondata or some other stand along to semi-stand alone, I'd go with some 370cc or 440cc injectors. If you're going to be tuning with less, like a VAFC, don't go higher than 310cc.
 
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