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2 questions about my completed LS swap concerning mounts and engine running

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by MATTXR250R, Nov 23, 2008.

  1. MATTXR250R

    MATTXR250R New Member

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    Whats up guys. Did and LS swap in my 93 EG coupe months back.

    Specs:

    -1994 B18B1
    -P75 ECU
    -Stage 2 Clutch
    -9.5lb flywheel
    -4-2-1 Header(cheap ass header)
    -CAI
    -Apexi N1 Catback
    -Stock Cat
    -GSR Transmission
    -Skunk2 Shift Knob
    -Skunk2 Short Shifter

    Basically my question is concerning the 2 front torqe mounts I think there called. I am ashamed to say I got slack and didn't find these before and during my swap process and have drove around for awhile now without them(yeah..dumbass). Anyways want to get them on there,I did some searches but only found articles mainly concerning the rear tranny bracket and various Hasport mounts.

    The mounts I am talking about is the one that is attached to the A/C Compressosr and then the other one bolts to the front of the tranny behind and just below the Radiator. I don't have A/C so which ever A/C bracket with the mount on it will be fine. Which one for the GSR transmission?

    Again this is in a 93 EG coupe EX originally with the D16Z6.



    As far as the swap itself goes...I love it..tons and tons more lowend that teh D. Much more fun to drive exspecially in traffic(teh stage 2 clutch kinda sucks in traffic) It runs pretty strong and I like the GSR tranny alot. Only thing as far as it running that has me stumped is the following:

    During cold startup it idles up close to 2500 to 3000 RPMs...then will start idling up to around 2500 or so..slowing decrease RPMs..then jump up again..just surges...I checked my IACV and cleaned it...no difference..I am not getting a CEL..it goes off after 2 seconds or so of turning the key and never comes on.

    Once the engine warms up..it idles down to a consistent 700RPMs and purrs like a kitten and runs GREAT.

    But if you have it hot...shut it off..walk in the store for 5 mins..come back out..start it up and take right off..the throttle is very jumpy. Its either on..or off. You can accelerate fine..and decelerate fine..but if you try and hold it at say 40mph you can't..it gets really jumpy..the cure I have found for this is when you start it hot..you have to wait 5 seconds or so and the engine will idle down from say 1000 to 700..if you wait till it does this..it will run fine and not be jumpy..freakin werid.

    The only sensor thats not plugged in is that Purge Valve on top of the Intake Manifold and I was told you didn't need to run it in an LS swapped civic. I used the Stock EX harness and modified it to work with the swap.

    Any help would be appricated..sorry for the novel.

    Matt.
     
  2. D16SiHatch

    D16SiHatch New Member

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  3. MATTXR250R

    MATTXR250R New Member

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    Dude..Thanks so much..I am very excited to try this and would right now but it wouldn't do me any good as my starter finally gave its last breath tonight so I have it out so I can go get a new starter tomrorow..will clean that valve as well while putting the new starter on. I really hope thats it.
     
  4. MATTXR250R

    MATTXR250R New Member

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    D16siHatch, Thanks for that info man..I put my new starter in last night after work and clean the FITV. The cold irratic idliing problem gone...YAY!!!!! That shit was so annoying.
     
  5. MATTXR250R

    MATTXR250R New Member

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    I have now noticed after the driving the car to work and back today after cleaning the FITV that my oil pressure psi has dropped???? At 3,000RPMs before I cleaned that valve my oil pressure would run dead on 75psi. And spike at 80psi or so durring high RPM....after the cleaning....At 3,000RPMs it turns out like 65-70psi and never goes about 70.

    What the hell did doing anything with that valve have to do with my oil pressure..I didn't touch the wiring or anything for the sending unit.

    Its an Autometer electrical oil press. gauge.
     
  6. D16SiHatch

    D16SiHatch New Member

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    You would be correct, the fitv has no correlation to the oiling system in your car. whether its working well, not working at all, or completely removed, it wont affect oil pressure one bit. sounds like a very small difference your noticing though. are you sure you werent just taking the original readings when the engine was cooler, and now your watching it when its more warmed up so the psi now isn't reading as high?
     
  7. MATTXR250R

    MATTXR250R New Member

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    Thanks for the reply again man. No before the cleaning it would run around 80psi cold. After being warmed usually it ran at 75-80 psi because I am almost always atleast at 3000RPMs or higher when crusing becasue of the GSR tranny.

    I guess though it still does have adequte oil pressure even though it isn;t as high.

    Its just so nice to go out when its cold and start it and it act correctly. I can't begin to describe how annoying that idling BS was..lol.
     
  8. MATTXR250R

    MATTXR250R New Member

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    Also,While we are on the subject of oil pressure. I thought I would mention this..its werid but I guess every engine has its on little differences which would probably also depend on the mileage on the oil pump and engine itself. This B18B1 cold puts out like 75-80psi of oil pressure at idle cold. My old D16Z6 would spike 100psi at idle(max the gauge out)when cold..lol..werid.

    Run 5W-30 in both engines.
     
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