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2001 5th Gen Prelude - won't spark or start

Discussion in 'Prelude' started by chasintn, Jun 7, 2008.

  1. chasintn

    chasintn New Member

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    2001 Honda Prelude base model, Automatic, 2.2L DOHC, VTEC

    I was testing one of the new hydrogen generators on my car for gas mileage and had the wires ran temporarily into the cockpit of the car that were attached to the 1st and 3rd wires of my MAP sensor. I was on the interstate this last weekend when my 6 year old son reached down and grabbed the wires and grounded them against a metal part of the car. The car immediately stopped running and has not ran since then. I have read for hours on different forums and no one seems to have ever had this particular scenario happen. The car was throwing fuel when the key was on and filled up the engine compartment and was pouring out of the manifold. I had the car towed home. After checking all fuses and relays under the hood and in the driver's side floor area, I decided since the car was throwing fuel that the ECU was probably the first victim. I replaced the P5M-L55 with a P5M-L54, the closest I could find anywhere and the only one available in the state of KY. That fixed the gas problem, but after blowing the fuel out of the engine and replacing the plugs, it still won't start. I have checked a plug out of the car, before the coil pack, and after the coil pack and all the car does is spark for about 1-2 seconds and then stops. We replaced the coil, the plugs, the ICM in the distributor and the distributor cap and button are only about 4 months old. It still does the exact same thing, it sparks for a couple of seconds and then no sparks. After extensive reading I decided it might be the Immobilizer creating the problem. My dad was an electronics engineer for years so he is very handy with a soldering iron and IC boards. I had him swap the Immobilizer chip from the old computer into the new computer. Still, it doesn't work. The green key icon comes on and blinks 2 times I think when you turn the key on and then goes off, then when you turn the key off, it blinks 3 times or 5 times. If it is the Immobilizer, I did not receive the Red learning key when I bought the car. The Check Engine light is not staying on when cranking. I am at my rope's end. I talked this morning to a technician that has been at the Honda dealership for over 30 years and the only other suggestion he had besides towing it to a dealer and having them check it with the HDS was that he mentioned that there might be a main ECU relay that is located under the dash near the steering column that MIGHT have blown. If anyone out there can offer any help, it would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks.
     
  2. chasintn

    chasintn New Member

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    Update


    UPDATE

    *** Okay, my dad found a 1997 Accord computer at a dealership and tried it on my car. It cranked, but runs funny, doesn't want to idle, but runs better when you give it a lot of gas. I am assuming either it is not a completely compatible computer or that it is for a manual transmission where mine is an automatic if I have done my research correctly on all of the posts on forums I have read. I think I am hearing that everyone recommends going with either a P13, P28 or P72 for my car. I know that the P28 doesn't look for the Knocks and a few other differences. I also know I am going to need a harness adapter from OBD2 to OBD1. Which computer would you guys recommend I go with? I am thinking the P13. They don't seem to cost a lot and they are very chip-able if I decide to do mods later. Does anyone have a cheap computer that they want to sell? I figure the price should be $50 or less for a used one for everything I am seeing on the web. I also need the correct harness. Those are listed online for anywhere between $20 and $40. All help is very much appreciated. Thanks.
     
  3. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Why would you think that an Accord ECU is a good solution for your car? It's meant for a single-cam engine, and possibly, depending on which motor it was paired with, might not even have the ability to activate VTEC.

    Any ECU that you go with (unless it's the stock one designed to be paired with your motor) is not really an ideal solution. The P28 is meant to be used with a 1.6 liter single-cam VTEC engine. Run that ECU stock and you likely won't be getting enough fuel for your 2.2 liter. Same thing with the P72; it's meant for a 1.8 liter, not a 2.2 liter. The P13 would be a better solution, but you'd still have to do an OBD conversion to make it work. If you want to run something like a P28 or P72 then you need to get it chipped and loaded with a map for an H22...
     
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