>24 hours to finish swap need help

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Crawl under your dash and make sure you've got all the connections plugged in.
Make sure your cluster is plugged in good(if you took it out)
Have you checked all the fuses on the interior board?(not just the engine bay fusebox)

All your lights will work normally even with the ECU taken out.(mine was out for 2 weeks but I still checked my headlights and stuff after my wire tuck, as well as my cluster lighting), so it's not your ECU's fault.
 
Engine just started. Problem: bad connection between the chassis and the battery ground wire :eek: . Some sand paper and a wire brush and it came to live. Thanks to all of you .
Now here is my new problem. Except that i have a cracked manifold (don't know how did i do that - wasn't like that before the swap; might be the hammer) , the check engine light is on. I've splited the brake booster vaccum line to use my purge solenoid.

1- Is it normal because it's a jdm d15b and not a z6?
2-If anormal , what can i do? What should i look for?
3-Can it be due to the leak in the manfold?

The engine came with a manual d15b ecu.

4- Should i use it instead of my original p28?
5- If yes how to convert to auto? Is there anyone in Boston that can do that for me?

Thank you very much.
 
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My new exhaust mani from ebay. What do you think?
 

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what kind of manifold is that I need one for my car and i dont really have that much $
 
My new exhaust mani from ebay. What do you think?

not a fan of the 2piec look, but for that price you cant beat it. Just watch for cracks in the welds after a few months of use.

I am looking at getting a cheap egay header too, no point of paying 300 bucks for one, they have similar designs, may have less quiality but they still flow better then that cast mani
 
My ecu is throwing a code 19 ( LOOK UP CONTROL SOLENOID) and a code 22 (variable valve timing and control pressure switch) . For the 22 ,i think i know what is going on. My plug is broken and i tried to fixe it with electrical tape. Looks like they is no connection between the wires.

1- I wanted to know if i can just eliminate the plug and attache the wire together and use electrical tape .
2- For the 22 , i wanted to know if that is a big deal. What this solenoid stands for ? Can i drive the car like that until i fixe it. Am i taking risk of breaking something?

The fact is that i didn't drive the car since the swap and due to that CEL. Can i do it safely?

3- I've splited my brake booster vaccum line to use the purge solenoid. Is that a problem?

Thank you.
 
Im not sure what 19 means (look up control solenoid?) but the code 22 (oil pressure switch) will just prevent your VTEC from functioning and the A/F ratio probably won't be correct at higher RPMs. Replacing the switch is an easy and cheap fix.
I'd do some more checking around about the code 19, cuz that doesn't sound right.
 
Im not sure what 19 means (look up control solenoid?) but the code 22 (oil pressure switch) will just prevent your VTEC from functioning and the A/F ratio probably won't be correct at higher RPMs. Replacing the switch is an easy and cheap fix.
I'd do some more checking around about the code 19, cuz that doesn't sound right.

19 : LOCK-UP control solenoid . Sorry.
 
yes you can just connect the wires but if you have to remove it you need to cut them.
 
for code 22 (just fixed this problem), put some wedge (or w/e type of disconnectable connector you like best) connector on the vtec oil press selenoid(green plug with 2 wires), and switch them until the code goes away. and make sure one of them is grounded!
 
for code 22 (just fixed this problem), put some wedge (or w/e type of disconnectable connector you like best) connector on the vtec oil press selenoid(green plug with 2 wires), and switch them until the code goes away. and make sure one of them is grounded!

That works but...

If this is a JDM motor it will not have a green plug (vtec oil press), If this is the case, you must not be running the JDM ecu, becuase the JDM ecu does not look for it. You can splice the VTEC solenoid with the VTEC Oil press wire. This is how I have my VTEC wired, getto but works for me, or go buy a VTEC solenoid with the green plug below it.

But if you do have the green plug, dont listen to what I said ;) Andrew is right.
 
It's running! It's running. Want to say thanks!

It's running , it's running! :driver: :happydance: All the cels are gone and i took it for a ride. It's was awesome. Thanks to everybody.

last questions:
1- is it ok that my engine runs cooler than my old z6?
2- Is it normal that at iddle it's hoter than when driving ( sorry if it's stupid)?
3- Is there any recommendations i should follow before i can really taste it ( i've been extremely easy on the engine so far while driving)?

Thanks again to everybody. I'll post all the pics as soon as i uploaded them in my computer.;)
 
1. Cooler is better than hotter. as long as your getting up to temp, have heat and wutnot, it's fine.
2. yep, thats normal. the entire idea behind the fins on the radiator is to cool the water by passing air. however, it should not be a huge temp difference...
3. Well, the motor already has a few miles on it... right? as long as your running the correct computer, and have everything plugged up, you should be able to rip it up no problems!
 
1. Cooler is better than hotter. as long as your getting up to temp, have heat and wutnot, it's fine.
2. yep, thats normal. the entire idea behind the fins on the radiator is to cool the water by passing air. however, it should not be a huge temp difference...
3. Well, the motor already has a few miles on it... right? as long as your running the correct computer, and have everything plugged up, you should be able to rip it up no problems!

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
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