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250WHP, time for a new build (boosted?)

Discussion in 'Forced Induction' started by redxcobrax, Mar 15, 2012.

  1. redxcobrax

    redxcobrax God member

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    Soo I miss my old honda, and I just bought a 02 EM2 yesterday. It is so freakin slow compared to my old H22 swapped EG hatch that I no longer have :'( I am contemplating doing a boosted motor swap, but maybe in a different chassis.

    I am open to all ideas, critics, etc.

    Here is what I want:
    250WHP
    for that goal should I go N/A or boost? (I am looking for the cheaper option)
    what motor should I use?

    I know D series are cheap as hell and I think that this block can easily handle boost to bring me to my power goal.

    B series might be better, but may also cost more to build, but do I need to go with it for my goal?

    H series costs quite a bit and may be over doing it for just 250 WHP which I know can easily be achieved with that motor.

    I do not know what chassis I will be putting this in yet, I am just focused on the motor build for now!

    So throw some ideas at me!
     
  2. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    B series stopped in 2001 so I would not advise an older motor in your newer chassis.

    Most swaps on those EM2's are Kswaps. But it will not be cheaper than a simple turbo set up (internally stock motor)

    But a K24A2 (TSX) with basic bolt ons, RBC IM and KPro will get you to your goal...all motor and it will get out of the hole like a demon. K20A2 trans would be a good popular choice. Kpro is $1000+ so...weigh your options.
     
  3. redxcobrax

    redxcobrax God member

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    Yeah but I do not plan on swapping into the EM2, I am thinking an EJ6 coupe, EM1, or possibly a EG hatch again lol.
     
  4. CAFROG

    CAFROG Honda Minion VIP

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    Go H2B.....they can make a EG bubble hit 12's with basic bolt ons
     
  5. FLounder

    FLounder power hungry VIP

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    so basically, you bought this car and decided you dont really like it? :p if you want to keep it, i would only do a K swap.

    if you are going to sell it for something else, i would get an EG, EK, or DC chassis, preferably with a dohc vtec b series already in it. then turbo of course.

    either way to reach 250 whp or more, and do it the right way, will cost thousands. but it will be fun!
     
  6. redxcobrax

    redxcobrax God member

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    no I bought the car, and being a stick shift honda it reminded me of my old swapped civic so now I want to build a motor and drop it into any chassis later on, im still keeping the EM2 and leaving it as it is with the D17, good gas mileage :D
     
  7. FLounder

    FLounder power hungry VIP

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    i can tell you from experience, thats the best way to do it... keep a daily driver vehicle! build your project car on the side, that way you wont be rushed to make it run. and once it does run, you dont have to rely on driving it every day.

    to keep things cheap, i would just do a b series turbo build. keep in mind, you can make 300whp pretty reliably on a stock gsr motor, so with your lowish power goal you dont necessarily need to build a motor. even with a bone stock b18b or b16a 250whp is not too hard and should be reliable if done right.
     
  8. redxcobrax

    redxcobrax God member

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    yeah I was thinking b18b from a 96-00 integra, with boost. Would you even bother doing a vtec head swap on that?
     
  9. FLounder

    FLounder power hungry VIP

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    No. For 250whp you dont need to. The problem with swapping a vtec head on a stock LS or b20 block, is that you will then want to rev it to 8k rpms, and the bottom end was not built for that. basically if you want to do lsvtec, you really need to do ARP head studs and rod bolts as a bare minimum. but then, once you have the motor all apart you start thinking about how some new pistons and rods would be nice... and then all the sudden you spent a bunch of money on a built motor.
     
  10. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    No need to with a goal like 250whp.
     
  11. redxcobrax

    redxcobrax God member

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    okay so I am set on a LS swap, no vtec. What kind of transmission would you guys suggest? I want somewhat shorter gears so I can go from a hole, but still be able to cruise on the interstate at ~ 90ish without being at like 5k rpms
    And for a turbo, what size, brand? suggestions? Ebay knock offs suck. I'm guessing for fuel upgrades ill need ~750cc injectors, walbro pump, ECU chipped and tuned obviously.
    I've never done a turbo setup before so this will be my first boost build
     
  12. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    GSR tranny. B16 sounds like itd be too short for your liking
    57 trim t3/t4 from Garrett. Excellent street turbo, cheap, and spools fairly quickly.
     
  13. SRDF Titan

    SRDF Titan New Member

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    If it was me I would go with something similar to what I just changed from, what I'm going to suggest to for you is slightly different then what I had. You can check out my build thread if you want to know the specifics.

    B18b motor and MATCHING TRANNY (I'll tell you why in a sec)
    Supporting hardware for swap
    Stage whatever you want clutch and maybe a lightened flywheel, since its already out of the car.
    Arp Headstuds
    Skunk 2 or Blox intake manifold
    T3T4 50 trim turbo or no bigger than a .63 a/r hot side
    Log manifold + 2.5" dowpipe and exhaust
    Chipped ecu and really good tune.

    Ok reasons for my suggestions:
    Number one a B18b is more than capable of number 1 supporting the horsepower goals that your looking for and number 2 doing it reliably with low cost. The B18b is the cheapest of b series engines swaps but it has a really nice torque curve which is important because you said that you want to get out of the hole quickly = you want torque (correct me if I'm wrong). I suggested that you stayed with the LS tranny for a couple of reasons;

    Reason 1: if your going to turbo charge this setup and run a 50 trim your going to be seeing full spool somewhere between 3000-4000 rpm, thats pretty quick!! You should have no problems with getting out of the hole, even with an LS tranny.

    Reason 2: You will be able to cruise at 100 mph if you wanted and you won't have to worry about being at 5000 rpm just to keep up with traffic on the highway (very annoying and I'm going through it now lol).

    Reason 3: An Ls tranny will come with your swap if you buy a complete package and even if you didn't, having to purchase an LS tranny is going to be far less expensive.

    Reason 4: A lightened flywheel will also help you rev just a little quicker = quicker out of the hole, even with the LS tranny!!

    Reason 5: I suggested the skunk2 or blox intake manifold because it will help you a little up top (hp and top speed runs), and will also prevent you from having to run as much boost to get to your hp goal.

    Now some people are going to disagree, but if you stop and think about it, it should make sense, well atleast to me lol!! I've put together setups like this before and it worked out great!! Have fun with it and I hope this helps.
     
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