3 angle valve job

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as far as my knowlege a 3 angle valve job is good to do because it helps your valves seat in better and tighter but people keep telling me its a wast of money,.. is this ture?

A standard 16v valve job IS a 3 angle. That is what is specified per the Helm's manual. A $100 valve job can be good if you know the machinist personally, because that is way cheap for a good vj. Mine cost me 250 from Rocket Motorsports, and that is a good deal from a reputable guy that I received in conjunction with the package I purchased from him. Actually, mine was a 4-angle on the intake side with a 2-angle plus a radius on the exhaust.

A GOOD valve job will make a stock or modified head flow better, but a poor valve job will make a stock head or modified head flow like crap. A $100 valve job does not sound like a good deal unless the machinist is a personal friend of yours.
 
i bring him alot of business so he favors me a little bit
even though the head will not be ported i can still use the bc4's correct? maybe run those this summer and next winter send the head out to get ported
 
k, reason i ask is before i pulled my engine the head made a weird ticking sound, only after engine was warm and at low idle so if were possible i wanted to change out the whole valvetrain and while i was at it may as well put cams in it
thanks
 
i havent touched it is there anything i should look for? maybe to see what one it is
 
checked the engire head. and had it looked at the valves and valve lashes are fine... nothing at all wrong with the head so still no idea what that ticking could have been...
 
Try to think about it this way, the valve job is more about the head, the cams\valvetrain have more to do with the ports.

I'm looking at that and I know it's not exactly right, I'm trying to make more of a general point so he can understand what's going on.

The valve job makes the head as a whole function better, whether you have a stock head, or a fully modified one. This is provided it's done properly, of course. Something like the BC4s won't realize their full-potential with port work and other accompanying machine work to either the head or sometimes the whole engine.

The engine is assembled in the factory with parts and machining that all assumes it's working with a specific roster of items. You're trying to change the parts and machining of a stock block and head, so one of the most advantageous things you can do in the interest of your wallet is to have the engine assembled ONCE and the work done ONCE with ONE set of parts. The engine will be the most well-configured it can be if all the parts are present first, all of the machining and balancing work is done with those specific parts, and the engine is completed and ready to be driven.

You can do this stuff as you go, but there is a lot of labor time in doing it that way. Beyond that, the more any given shop, speed or machine, does at once, the more of a deal your generally going to get because the job is easier on them too.

Maybe build an engine on the side and not drive on the same engine\car your trying to build and just do it once? You stand only to save yourself time, money and headache.
 
had the head checked by my machinest and he said they head was perfect... absolutly nothing wrong with it...
 
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