300hp goal

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Better yet lets get back to the original topic. I want to build a B series motor for 250hp N/A. Im willing to go LS/VTEC CR/VTEC B18 anything. I know that somebody out there has spent the money and built one of these to 250whp. Money is not an issue. So give me your dream set-ups. Im just looking for ideas on how to get there.
 
usmcbugle85 @ Apr 19 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
Better yet lets get back to the original topic. I want to build a B series motor for 250hp N/A. Im willing to go LS/VTEC CR/VTEC B18 anything. I know that somebody out there has spent the money and built one of these to 250whp. Money is not an issue. So give me your dream set-ups. Im just looking for ideas on how to get there.
Click to expand...

just get a dart block, high comp pistons and good rods. then get a jun head or skunk2 stage 3 full valve train. fork over $1000 on a header, another $300 on an intake manifold. spend 10 hours at $100/hr to tune the shit out of it. not a bad way to spend $12,000 when you can slap a turbo on a b16 for $5000 and go just as fast.

NA is the expensive way to go slow.
 
get_nick @ Apr 19 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
usmcbugle85 @ Apr 19 2006 said:
Quoted post[/post]]
Better yet lets get back to the original topic. I want to build a B series motor for 250hp N/A. Im willing to go LS/VTEC CR/VTEC B18 anything. I know that somebody out there has spent the money and built one of these to 250whp. Money is not an issue. So give me your dream set-ups. Im just looking for ideas on how to get there.
Click to expand...

just get a dart block, high comp pistons and good rods. then get a jun head or skunk2 stage 3 full valve train. fork over $1000 on a header, another $300 on an intake manifold. spend 10 hours at $100/hr to tune the shit out of it. not a bad way to spend $12,000 when you can slap a turbo on a b16 for $5000 and go just as fast.

NA is the expensive way to go slow.
Click to expand...
:rollseyes:

Sleeved B20 block and crank - 1100
Forged Rods - 500
Forged Pistons - 550
Headwork - 1200
Valvetrain - 1200
Header - 1000
Intake/ IntakeManifold - 500
Injectors - 400
ECU/Crome 400
Miscellaneous garbage (gaskets, sealer, etc) - 750
Tuning(10 hours? lol) - 1000

Total = 8600

Ha. Not 12g's but still expensive. Here is a similar turbo setup

ENTIRE B16 engine, including transmission - 1500 (or in my case about 700)
Turbo Piping - 200
t3/t4 turbo - 750 (for a decent one)
Turbo manifold - 500
BOV, External Wastegaste - 300
Injectors - 400
Intercooler - 500
ECU w/crome - 400

Total = 4550

Turbo Setups will almost always be cheaper. But I commend you for trying the NA way. I like mine except here in denver, it's getting choked by the thin air.
 
I like the idea of the b20 block because of all the torque and I already have a head from a b16 A2. heres what I was thinking of doing.

B20 block
sleeved by inline pro
13.0:1 Wiseco pistons
eagle rods
crankshaft? tell me more about lightweight crankshafts and the different sizes
B16A2 head
stage 2 p&P
skunk2 Stage 2 cams
skunk2 high comp valves
skunk2 valve springs and titanium retainers
intake manifold? where can i find the most power here. ive heard whats most important is to have the IM ported to match the throttle body and visa versa
obviously large injectors
P28 ecu with Hondata s300
GSR or ITR trans
headers? whats the difference between 4-2-1 and 4-1 where is the power and torque and what brands

the reason that im not really lookin for a turbo is because I have a 2000 Si right now with a t3 and all it has been is a royal pain in my ass. i just dont really want to deal with all that crap anymore. And Im also possibly looking in to using nitrous with this build. I plan on building a bullet proof engine jsut so i dont have to worry about it. Ive learned my lesson on buying ebay parts and i dont plan on going with anything but quality strong shit.
 
What do you mean a pain in the ass? 13:1 compression is going to be much more of a pain in the ass than a turbo'd b16. My engine is pretty much bullet proof, but I still have some issues wth my build - idling, knocking at higher rpms (91 octane sucks), and I am only running around 11.5:1 here in California.

To answer your questions regarding your last post:
Intake manifold - skunk2 pro for your NA app. will most likely be best for you.
Headers: 4-2-1 usually make more power in the midrange, than a similar 4-1, but for your goals, I wouldn't look at anything less than SMSP, RMF, or DTR, all of them technically 4-1 headers, but are in a class above what you probably are use to seeing. Ditch any idea of using a DC or crap like that.

Just make sure you get a good tuner, 13:1 compression is going to be a pain to tune on any pump gas.
 
this may be a but off topic but one of you mentioned the f-series engines. I thought the F20 was out of the S2000 and the later ones were F22 to create more torque that the F20s lacked. correct me if im wrong, just trying to learn some more about hondas.
 
there are a few models of F20s. F20Bs are accord motors, F20Cs are S2K Motors.

Preludes and Accords also came with F22s, but definitely not the rev happy demonic versions that the S2K came with.
 
Yes. F20Bs are also grossly underrated from the factory. The ones I've seen put out almost as much to the wheels as they are rated to the crank.
 
B16a Gen 2 Nitrous Build?

Hi, this is my first post, and I need some tips on building my B16a Gen2 to handle a 75 shot of nitrous.

What kind of internals do I need? (STAGE 1 OR 2)

How much do I need to lower my compression ratio? (9.5:1 Or 9.0:1)

If I get new cams does the timing need to be changed?

What kind of power will I have if I run all motor with internal upgrades? (How much hp do internals add?)

Thank You
 
make your own post dude. We'll help you from there. This thread is dedicated to usmc's questions.
 
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