3040 VS 4040 proportioning valve swap theory...

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Not to threadjack but jump on the bandwagon here, I am also doing a brake swap on my 94 hatch cx to integra fronts and rears but the rears are 11in aem upgrade. It came with the 4040 but am curious, is the cx a 30/40 as well or whatever cuz if so from what i'm reading i'll just leave my stock one on as well and just upgrade the mc.
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol+Jun 14 2005, 10:03 PM-->
the hatch is pretty tail happy... and since i'm gutted, its very light in the back. i think i'll be locking up sooner than you would be due to the bias and the weight transfer.

i may have to do a LOT of experimenting with ride height. :p
[post=512340]Quoted post[/post]​

Suspension tuning is FUN. Not. Engine tuning is easier...

Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Jun 15 2005, 02:44 PM
Brian from fastbrakes.com responded....

Brian from fastbrakes

Use the stock drum valve. There is no need to change it at all. Even on the
6G Civic Honda used the same valve for the HB's and the Si....


so, looks like i'm not going to change it after all.
[post=512575]Quoted post[/post]​


:thumbsup:

That's what I decided in the end too.
 
Originally posted by HatchSpeeD@Jun 15 2005, 08:46 PM
Not to threadjack but jump on the bandwagon here, I am also doing a brake swap on my 94 hatch cx to integra fronts and rears but the rears are 11in aem upgrade. It came with the 4040 but am curious, is the cx a 30/40 as well or whatever cuz if so from what i'm reading i'll just leave my stock one on as well and just upgrade the mc.
[post=512663]Quoted post[/post]​


you're going to have a 10" front and an 11" rear... eeeekk.

IMO, just run some damn good pads up front like a hawk, and some oem shiters in the rear, and leave the stock PPV. upgrade to the 91 ex 4-door 15/16th, and you're golden
 
kewl thanx...yea dude thats how they came lol. They already have ebc green pads on them. Now I just want to wait to upgrade the bushings before I throw the swap on and get some SS lines. Still undecided on the lines though, never bought any. Also i'm not sure if I need to get the rotors turned or if the surface rust will just come off after driving. I'll try and take pics on friday to get opinions.
 
goodridge lines is where its at.

and no need to turn them for surface rust--- just take a mild wire brush to 'em real quick to clean it up.
 
brian,
did you ever figure out if your hatch does in fact have the 30/30?

sounds like we found out that the SI's have the 30/40 for sure but now it's just a question about the dx and lx

it would make sense to me that the 30/30 would be a little more restrictive than the 40/40 but I'm not sure how that would affect your braking.... maybe it would make the pedal feel a little more firm?

I'm not brake expert, that is for sure
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Jun 16 2005, 01:25 PM
i haven't looked.
[post=512970]Quoted post[/post]​



that's cool, my guess is that you wouldn't be able to read the casting unless you took the valve off anyway

I know for 110% that my 95 CX has a 3030


what is your brake setup right now? are you still running stock brakes... sorry if you have previously posted this
 
100% stock OEM goodness, and they stop great, hahaha till I start driving like an asshole :)
 
Originally posted by pissedoffsol@Jun 16 2005, 09:58 PM
fade sucks. just ask kid N play. even they lost the fade...
[post=513044]Quoted post[/post]​

Haha :lol:
 
Brake fade sucks, and so does the 80's haircut, Kid N Play had a horrible fade.
 
this thread is starting to go horribly off track

anyone got anything informative to say about the 30/30 vs the 40/40
other than "I think the 30 has smaller openings than the 40"?
 
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