3d printer

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What kind of tolerances can you expect out of one of these? 0.010 inch? Do the objects need any sort of machining after their done? I've heard of these things, kinda clueless on how they work.
 
I dunno the inches, been moving all day and I'm tired. My resolution is 22.5 microns on x and y. Z is probably going to be 0.30mm or 0.25mm.
 
Interesting. That's about 0.001 inch rounded up. I kinda doubt that you could do anything precision with it. I'm thinking on the lines of printing your own replacement parts, panels, etc.
 
So, what file types do you send to the printer? Can you draft something in a solid modeling program (Solid Works) and print it?
 
Interesting. That's about 0.001 inch rounded up. I kinda doubt that you could do anything precision with it. I'm thinking on the lines of printing your own replacement parts, panels, etc.

Precision parts are achievable, that's the whole point. Read reprap.org.

So, what file types do you send to the printer? Can you draft something in a solid modeling program (Solid Works) and print it?

Yep, solid works then put it into a slicer program that generates the layered g-code and then feed that to the printer. Most of the printer firmware clients automatically do the slicing and building the support structures for overhangs and the like.

So yeah, pretty much take a SW file and print it.
 
Oh yeah, you know those plastic interior clips everyone breaks when pulling off plastic panels? There are tons of models of them online and it's easy to print a dozen of them and keep them in a toolbox.

ABS plastic costs about $35/kg, so you can imagine the cost savings on just two Honda bumper clips.

As for precision, I remember someone building a click pen a while back. They took the ink cartridge and spring from another pen, and it worked. I don't know for how long, but with ABS, things last a really long time.

One of the first things I'm going to do with my printer is make some smaller pulleys for the x and y axis, right now I have 36-tooth pulleys on, and it hurts my resolution pretty significantly, but with a trade-off for speed. I could just go to 400 step motors (.9deg steps) without sacrificing speed, but I think I'll stick with the motors I have now for a while. I want to finish the engagement ring first, or at least try it.

In a couple weeks, once I'm done moving in, I'll put some of the printed parts up in the FS forum if anyone wants to build their own printer.
 
Awesome! Ive got some stuff in SW that I need to prototype, but dont wanna send right to a machine.

Im gettin more interested in this. The cost is right too.
 
I wish there was a second me for all the projects I want to do. Cnc table for my plasma cutter, 3d printer, postal Jeep, old ass civic. Not enough hours in the day.
 
Well, my heated build platform came today. Turns out it got forwarded to my new house.

Now I just need to get some glass and some filament.
 
i've come to the conclusion that pickles is a very dangerous individual
the shit you get into lol
 
Lol. I'm just a hacker at heart, I like to tinker and see what happens. If that's labeled as dangerous, our society will lose all innovation. So, no, I'm not dangerous, I'm curious and driven to try things and build things.

I'm going to wait until I have everything cleaned up from the move before I print anything, but it's all setup and ready to get calibrated now.
 
Can you print ITBs? or TB or maybe Intake manis?

To revisit this:
Yes. I was talking to some folks about printing intake manifolds, and they said it's entirely possible, but sometimes you have to print in two pieces and then fuse after the print.

My printer isn't big enough to do single piece 1/2 IMs for anything bigger than about 500cc, but I may be enlarging the printer shortly.

My first test will be a baffled IM for my 24cc Go-Ped scooter.
 
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