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3d printer

Discussion in 'Computers, Games, Electronics etc' started by awptickes, Jun 30, 2013.

  1. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    Nope. Filling all middle layers to 40%.

    First four layers are solid, last four layers are solid, and perimeters are three layers deep.
     
  2. GSRCRXsi

    GSRCRXsi Super Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Even with the lowers? You aren't printing 100%? I'd think you'd want the strength, no?

    And what layer height are you using for them?
     
  3. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    .2mm layer height, I'm going to start printing with .125mm height.

    You don't want to print it 100%, it's a waste of material.
     
  4. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Interesting. Sounds like you have much more control over the fill and layer height settings than I do at school.
     
  5. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    stratasys?

    Their printers "just work" because they take the really big hammer approach to 3d printing. They use dissoluble support material, which is really cool, but it patented until later this year.
     
  6. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    The one I use is a MakerBot. There's also one in the senior lab but I'm not sure what software it uses.

    MakerWare sort of takes the big hammer approach too. You load your 3D file, slap it on the table, change the fill on the layers as needed, choose an "accuracy" (which is really just 3 different preset layer heights) and click go.
     
  7. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    Yeah dude, it's all about the controller electronics, slicer, and software. I'd say most of the computation is done with the slicer, because all the controller does is take the g-code and do what it says...

    You can probably use something like "Cura" to do the g-code generation, and just load that into the makerbot software. I'm using repetier firmware and client software, but I completely bypass the integrated slicer (slic3r) because now that I have a baseline of settings that work with my printer, I can now use anything, and slic3r is slow compared to Cura.
     
  8. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    Who wants a prusa mendel i2 printed parts kit? Next week I'm gonna start cranking them out.
     
  9. TurboMirage

    TurboMirage YEEAAAHHH VIP

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    I want to see some stuffs you printedddd
     
  10. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    Sent you some pics.

    I'm gonna start cranking out parts here shortly. I'll start with two full printed kits, then see how those go.
     
  11. Jeef

    Jeef NO MA'AM Moderator VIP

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    Got any pics of the printer and a few things you printed
     
  12. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    I'll take some when I get home. I don't really have any pics up public yet. I'll have some by Monday though.
     
  13. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    Are you still using the Sanguinololu board? With the Raspberry Pi? How does that work?

    I'm lookin at building an i3 with a RUMBA board and smart lcd controller. Still have a lot of learning to do tho lol.

    Oh, and yes. I did dig up a 2 year old thread.
     
  14. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    I use a sanguinololu connected to an old macbook pro for my Prusa Mendel i2, which is outfitted as a high-accuracy printer. I use it for smaller items that require extreme dimensional accuracy and very small layer height, with high detail.

    I use a raspberry pi on my RigidBot 10^3 running marlin firmware, the Pi runs OctoPi.

    They work great. The best thing you can do for yourself is to buy Simplify3D. It's $150, but it's well worth it if you do any kind of highly detailed printing.
     
  15. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    What makes the i2 so accurate? The motors and drivers?

    EDIT: The microstepping capability of the board?
     
  16. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    It's not the i2 inherently. Mine is setup for 1/16 micro stepping on .9-degree motors, but more than that I have tiny little 8t gears for the belts, and fine-thread z-axis rods.

    Everything is very rigid, and I have precision ground scientific stainless steel rods, along with an Aluminium Y-bed, and borosilicate float-glass print surface.

    It's only high accuracy because I made it that way.
     
  17. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    I see. Seems a lot like what I'm looking to do.

    On gear sizes, is that a parameter in the firmware or something? Is that all taken care of in initial setup?
     
  18. awptickes

    awptickes unimpressed by you VIP

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    Upon calibration, you specify the number of steps required to move the print head 1mm on the print bed. You can estimate it, but you're better off busting out the calipers and micrometer to measure a 10x10x10mm cube that's been printed, and adjust accordingly. Once you have external dimensions calibrated, you then need to do things like print a cube with a recess cut for a nickle, and get that working. You'll have to play with extrusion width and extruder steps.

    If you don't calibrate it to the actual object, you'll wind up printing out-of-spec objects -- I'm reminded of the makerbot people who design gears at 10mm, and they print at 9.7mm then say "that's just how 3d printers work.)
     
  19. newb

    newb phresh VIP

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    I gotcha. That's similar to how we test our machines at work.

    I need to get some time on our water jet to make a frame now.
     
  20. whiterabbit06

    whiterabbit06 Why oh why didn't I take the blue pill? VIP

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    Do you make your own filament too? I've been wanting to get a 3D printer for a while now and the Prusa I2 seems like a good one to start off with.
     
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