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5 Year Project Plan

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> EG-EK / DC' started by Ozwald, Aug 30, 2013.

  1. Ozwald

    Ozwald Member

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    This is the plans i have for my 98 LX. Some of the mods i am doing may sound insane but that is why it is a 5 year project... Feel free for any pointers that i may need to look for an any of this.

    What i am planning is for a total overhaul to personalize this econobox with a zest of insanity. Goal hp = 250 ish
    The car is being built for a adventure run and then to be used as a winter beater. :D

    Car: 1998 LX 4 door auto

    Modifications:

    Chassis:
    Wagon the rear using ek hatchback
    AWD rear suspension
    Mod rear floor to accept CRV fuel tank
    Fender flare to fit CRV suspension (1.25 inch out on each wheel)
    Front bumper from 99-00 for fog lights
    Skid plate
    Spliter
    Cut hood to expose exhaust manifold with screen
    Modified rear bumper for dual exhaust
    Undercoat
    Fiberglass wheel wells
    Mate black finish with dark red weather stripping
    All glass but windshield replaced with plexiglas

    Engine Bay:
    Harness tuck, mild
    A/C line tuck
    Electric A/C compressor
    Electric Power steering
    Cruse control relocation

    Engine and drive-line:
    B20 block, stock internals
    Cylinder reinforcement plate
    B18 VTEC head
    Coil over ignition, from newer civics
    baby or twin turbo (Still up in the air)
    Front mount inter-cooler
    A/C and Power Steering delete
    Manual CRV transmission with AWD
    swap 5th for higher ratio
    OEM CRV drive-train
    2.7in. exhaust to rear diff then dual 2in. on either side of rear bumper
    exhaust cutout, precat, post turbo
    Polyurethane rear mount only
    OEM mounts for the rest

    Suspension:
    CRV from struts down
    5 lug wheels
    This will widen the stance by 2.5 inches
    CRV sway bars
    Strut braces, front/rear
    Disk breaks all around, 282mm front, 260mm rear
    CRV alloy wheels with p225/65/r15 tires with about 40 psi

    Interior:
    Full cage
    Sun roof
    stock dash
    full interior
    rear bench removed, replaced with two pilot seats
    5 point harnesses
    custom carpet/ headliner

    Electronics:
    Home built ECU
    4 oxygen sensors (one per cylinder)
    Possible wire in wheel speed sensors


    Comment if you like the plan or if you can think of anything else i can do. Any other questions are welcome. Again this is a lot of work but thats why i have a 5 year plan. The saving up began a while ago. O yea, im doing the work with my friend. both have auto technology degrees and i almost have my engineering degree and access to a machine shop.
     
  2. Matts96HB

    Matts96HB . Moderator VIP

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    Sounds like an interesting project.

    What type of engineering?
     
  3. Ozwald

    Ozwald Member

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  4. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Sounds like you should trade for a manual 1st gen CRV and start from there. :)
     
  5. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    all that work, and stock b20 interals? there's your weak link.
     
  6. SlushboxTeggy

    SlushboxTeggy It's only stupid if it doesn't work VIP

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    Yup. A VTEC head will tear up those internals, let alone adding a turbo to the mix.

    And why stay auto?
     
  7. Ozwald

    Ozwald Member

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    Not staying auto, it will be a manual
    Why do you say the VTEC head will tear it apart?
    Its only modifying the valve train. if that statement was true my d16 with a y8 head should have died already.

    Ive looked around and the rear diff is only good for about 300hp so i figured id keep is around 250 to keep the transmission integrity ish.

    Reason for not using the CRV directly is because it would put me in an SUV class...

    I thought it was safe with a good tune to go about double what the engine originally comes with.
     
  8. Briansol

    Briansol Admins Admin VIP

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    the b20 revving high is not something it was meant to do. going to 8k is 1200 higher than the b20 was designed for.


    suv class is probably easier to compete with than an awd conversion (outlaw?) class most likely I would imagine... what type of racing are you planning to do?

    I can't think of a single motorsport event, drag, autox, trophy truck, drift, parking lot, or anything else where i would pick 225/65 tires
     
  9. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Yeah... I had a CRV build in mind and was thinking more along the lines of 245/50-17. :ph34r:
     
  10. Ozwald

    Ozwald Member

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    i was thinking the wider thicker tires because of crossing streams and driving through mud. and keeping the stock size so there is enough flex in the side walls so that the rim wont bash the ground
     
  11. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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    [​IMG]


    I took the liberty to underline all the completely retarded shit.

    WHY?

    This looks SO much like 'build requests' that I get from engineers on a regular basis...not saying engineers aren't intelligent, but having ZERO real-world experience, knowledge, and know-how REALLY shows through in lists like this...

    I'm not going to ridicule you, but you took the time to write up that much crap...do me a favor and explain why for each of the things that I've underlined.
     
  12. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    You actually want skinnier taller tires for mud and rivers...
     
  13. Ozwald

    Ozwald Member

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    Explain it all in a nutshell:

    There is no ek wagon in the US
    AWD and b20 for bigger motor and ability to put the power to the ground.
    Using the CRV suspension for more clearance under the car and more travle
    CRV tank because it is bigger
    Body mods for the hell of it
    engine bay tuck to make it look clean and custom
    with a goal power of 250HP the transmission dose not need to be modified, also the internals of the b20 should be strong enough for that power.
    the rear polly mound is to limit the rotation of the engine but keeping the other ones stock to keep the vibration down
    cop ignition and custom computer to allow for tuning.
    Also, next year for my major i need to build and program a computer for my final project in my minor.

    anything else? lol Questions are good, Advice is appreciated.

    calesta, taller skinnier? i would have thought the opposite. but if so i could use taller skinnier. ill look it up
     
  14. civicious

    civicious FüK-VTEC VIP

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  15. Lohe

    Lohe New Member

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    Talk to someone who's done it before. They might ridicule you too but at least they won't tell you they won't ;)
     
  16. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    Yeah.

    [​IMG]

    Seriously, if you want to do all that- just do an EK front end conversion on a CRV. Much easier.

    You only want wider if you need flotation in areas where your tires can't cut through to the lower solid ground below- otherwise you'll just slide everywhere. Go look it up on the serious 4x4 boards. Wider is mostly just for looks, and if you want true flotation, you need a LOT wider- like monster truck wide.
     
  17. Ozwald

    Ozwald Member

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    crv weights almost twice as much though...

    and its awkward to drive
     
  18. SlushboxTeggy

    SlushboxTeggy It's only stupid if it doesn't work VIP

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    Not once you add the CRV drivetrain and extra body panels. I'd be willing to guess they'd be comparable at that point.
     
  19. Ozwald

    Ozwald Member

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    im talking chassis weight, with out engine and trans.

    The hatch only add about 250 lbs but replacing the glass gives back almost 60 lbs.

    plus with AWD ill need weight in the rear to help with oversteer
     
  20. SlushboxTeggy

    SlushboxTeggy It's only stupid if it doesn't work VIP

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    You don't think that "chassis" weight is going to change when you have to add some sort of a real subframe to mount the rear diff to?
    You're not adding just the hatch. Again, you will increase chassis weight when you fab up whatever you plan to mount the hatch to.
    You haven't looked into the AWD system yet have you? It's a variable split. It only sends power to the rear wheels when the front wheels start to slip. And you won't get near a 50-50 split even in the best case scenario.
     
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