5th Gen Acc H22a swap

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mikeislord

Senior Member
My 94 Accord's F22b2 just pooped a week and a half ago so I have to decide what to do with this thing. I have been reading a hell of alot of information of doing a H22a swap and I have come up with a list of modifications I would need to be able to do this swap, I just need someone to verify that I havent missed anything.

1) I need to use both Prelude and Accord motor mounts.
2) I need to lengthen the fuel rail.
3) I need to wire in the new VTEC wiring.
4) I need to splice 2 wires on the distributor from the JDM 3 wire setup to the USDM 2 wire setup.
5) I need a Prelude half shaft to hook to my Accord axle.

Also, I need to know for certain if I need to get a Prelude P/S pump or if I can still use my Accord P/S Pump. Seems like a toss up in the forums.

I've been down a car for almost 2 weeks, if I decide to do the swap, is there any way to get this thing done over a weekend or should I expect to be out of a car for atleast another 2 weeks?
 
I did mine over Martin Luther King weekend, so I had an extra day. If you've got people who know what they're doing, you should be able to complete it if you start on a Friday.
 
Way to search. Actually you need to lengthen the fuel line on the H22 to go to the other side of the engine bay OR you can use the F22 fuel rail.

If you read the Swap info for the 4th gen accord you could probably get some info on keeping the power steering pump. I havent done a swap on accord, so i couldnt be much help there.

You seem to have everything else about right. If you get a swap from HMotors i think they include the axel that you need. Thats what i remember hearing anyway.
 
:werd:

read my guide at the top of this forum.

Your swap will be quite similar, almost exactly the same. You will have to switch pins A6 and A11 at the ECU, and a few minor items like fuel and vacuum hoses will be routed slightly different. Nothing worth worrying about.
 
teehee...between myself, tab and dohc...i feel like we run shit on the accord/prelude side of things.
 
Originally posted by reikoshea@Sep 26 2005, 09:24 PM
teehee...between myself, tab and dohc...i feel like we run shit on the accord/prelude side of things.
[post=560778]Quoted post[/post]​



Haha, you guys definately own s**t around here. Bar none, some of the best Acc/Prelude swap knowledge on the internet.

I'm gonna start this thing in a couple of days, so I'm sure to post something I'm going to screw up. Those vaccum and fuel hoses you mentioned tab, will I be using the original Accord hoses and will they be long enough?
 
the vacuum hoses should be fine...the fuel line you will need to lengthen...or just use the F22 rail with the H22 injectors.
 
Now for a couple more questions..

Which motor mounts are going to be Prelude and which are going to be Accord?
Does anyone have a diagram of the p13 ECU so I can see the pin locations I need to switch?
I found diagrams of a Civic ECU for a B16 I think, but I don't know how similar they are.

The swap begins tonight or Friday..
Wish me luck.
 
1 All Accord, use a 4th gen drivers mount though. -That or you can use the H22 mount if you have one. The tranny mount, thrust mount and rear mount are all fine.
2 In the reference section of this site.

Good luck :thumbsup:
 
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yeah, check the refrences for pin locations. all obd1 ecus are the same.


this has got nothing to do with the swap...but down the road i suggest u get hondata so u can eliminate alot of that vaccum bullshit and the egr...the egr is just a pain it the ass. on my swap i could never get it to work right. you can also eliminate the knock sensor...and if you wanted the 02. just my .02
 
The egr is a pain in the ass but i dont think you can pass emissions without it.
 
Took out the old engine... Right now I'm preparing to rewire the old harnesses to the new engine. The H22's got two main wire looms, whereas the F22's got three which appear to lead back to basically the same locations as the two on the H22. Is the best way to tackle this just to go get the manual for the car the motor came out of and trace each connector back one by one, or do all the wire colors just match up? If anyone's already got a diagram for this or something please let me know... One other thing, using the F22 fuel rails w/ the H22 injectors, would it run lean? The last thing I ran into was when I went to get grease for the inner CV boot and couldn't find whichever type is specifically for that application. I'll figure out the latter two issues one way or another, but any direction anyone can give me on the wiring would really help a lot. Thanks
 
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Took out the old engine... Right now I'm preparing to rewire the old harnesses to the new engine. The H22's got two main wire looms, whereas the F22's got three which appear to lead back to basically the same locations as the two on the H22. Is the best way to tackle this just to go get the manual for the car the motor came out of and trace each connector back one by one, or do all the wire colors just match up? If anyone's already got a diagram for this or something please let me know... One other thing, using the F22 fuel rails w/ the H22 injectors, would it run lean? The last thing I ran into was when I went to get grease for the inner CV boot and couldn't find whichever type is specifically for that application. I'll figure out the latter two issues one way or another, but any direction anyone can give me on the wiring would really help a lot. Thanks

The wire colors are basically the same. Where the differences will be are at the IAB, the EGR, knock sensor, VTEC switch, VTEC solenoid, and oil pressure sensor. You will have to modify the length on some wires also, since the DOHC motor is larger across the cams. It's not that hard. It's tempting to hook up your fan switch harness to the VTEC solenoid, but don't do it, LOL.

Just about any wheel bearing grease will work.

The F22 rail using the H22 injectors will work fine. The injectors make the difference, not the rail. The fuel pressure regulator will make sure the pressure is right at each injector.
 
Day 2 over. Ran across some pretty annoying problems. First, the F22 fuel rail does not mount to the H22 at all. The H22 has 3 bolts that attach its own fuel rail and the Accord's rail does not and cannot fit around them. Whats up with that? Secondly, the driver's side motor mount. I picked up a 90-93 Accord motor mount and the bolt will not go through the mount and into the bracket. Got the other 3 mounts in after a few hours of shimming and tilting and jacking and lowering, etc.. But this last one is completely misaligned. It fits onto the H22 perfectly, but does not line up with the chassis' brackets, even with the other motor mount bolts out. Frankly, it doesn't even seem wide enough. The guy (Zach at JDMenginedepot.com) who sold me the swap told me that if I had a problem, he would give me a H22 mount, so I'm going to take him up on that, but still.. Any ideas? Also, my H22 came with an EGR, do I still need to take the old one off the F22? :blink:

Hah.. Anyone want to tell me how to put my car back together, Lol.
 
huh. I'm sorry I steered you wrong. The 90-93 chassis lines right up with that mount. I would definitely try the H22 mount. I know the F22B1 and F22B2 have different bolt patterns, which I'm sure you've discovered. How far off is that F22A mount? Can you loosen the other mounts and shift the motor around at all?
 
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Hah.. Anyone want to tell me how to put my car back together, Lol.

Is it wrong that i laughed at that?

Tab is probably right on the mount thing, definitely try the H22 mount.

As for the fuel rail, it might be because its a F22B2? I heard someone say a while back that he used the F-series rail on his H22...dont remember if it was accord or prelude, but i remember it being said.

I guess that means you do it tab's way and lengthen the fuel line to the other side of engine. Should only cost you a couple of bucks to buy the stuff at oreillys/autozone

Oh, EGR...duh...id leave the one that came with the engine on there. You definitely need it for inspection and without it, you might throw off your vacuum. EGR problems also can cause a knock (at least thats what my new handy dandy scan tool says), so id just leave the EGR on the car.
 
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huh. I'm sorry I steered you wrong. The 90-93 chassis lines right up with that mount. I would definitely try the H22 mount. I know the F22B1 and F22B2 have different bolt patterns, which I'm sure you've discovered. How far off is that F22A mount? Can you loosen the other mounts and shift the motor around at all?

The F22A mount is quite misaligned, fits the engine perfectly of course, but is about 1 1/2 to 2 inches too thin. Most importantly, the motor mount bolt goes through it at like a 30 degree angle, which makes it VERY hard to impossible to get that sucker in. We spent about 4 1/2 to 5 hours just getting those motor mounts lined up so its a safe bet to say we tried pretty much everything, but the H22 mount is in the mail, so I'll give you guys an update.

Maybe I was just ill prepared or something, but my two main wire looms that come out of the H22 are on opposite sides of their respective plugs except for the main ground to the fuse box. So i have to re-route the wires behind the engine by the firewall. Is that common and I just didnt realize, or did I just happen across some craziness? Needless to say, I bought about 100 crimp connectors and 80 feet of wire..

Where should I be looking for the unbroken black box to hook up the IAB? Couldn't really tell in the diagrams I saw..
 
most of the time, people use their stock harness from the car and modify it. It would be a lot easier than converting the engine harness to fit the car and the engine.

The black box is directly below your intake manifold, more toward the driver's side. It is black, has a solenoid and two prong plug, and the dimensions are about 2 1/2 inches square by six inches long. There are also vacuum lines going in and out.
 
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