88 dx rear drum to disk swap

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sampson

Junior Member
I have a 88 dx with a B16A and I need help with swaping the rear drums to disks from a si or LS. What parts do I need?
 
this will get you started, if someone else has more experience and feels like answering a post that been covered a a couple thousands times before they maybe be able to provide some more particulars, easiest was is complete rear disc and trailing arm assembly, as well brake lines for the rear discs (might as well just go ss) e-brake cable for the disks, (del sol i've heard works, i would have to assumer the rex would) and a proportionating valve for the MC and personally id go with a larger MC
 
give him a break he is a noob, he is doing a brake swap so its understandable that he got it confused, but just get all the parts off the SI and it should fit fine
 
here's what I told someone last week:
you need:
1. trailing arms with disc spindles, rotors, & calipers
2. disc brake hoses & e-brake cables
3. disc brake prop. valve (optional, but recommended)
4. larger master cylinder (optional, but recommended)

1. The trailing arms on all 4th, 5th, and 6th gen civics, 2nd gen CRXs, del sols, and 2nd and 3rd gen integras are interchangeable. you could swap just the spindles, but it's really difficult due to four pesky torx bolts.
2. get e-brake cables of similar length. for a civic, get them from an integra. for a CRX, get them from a CRX Si, or possibly a del sol VTEC.
3,4. discs need more hydraulic pressure than drums to pruduce the same decelerative force, so upgrade your prop.valve for balanced braking. Once you do that, you're asking your master cyl. for more pressure overall, so upgrade it too. you'll probably want a 15/16". you can't simply take the integra's MC - you'll need to swap the MC and booster as one unit.

Swapping to discs will not make your car stop more quickly. any properly adjusted system can lock all four wheels (or activate ABS), so stopping distance is limited to the quality of your tires. discs will provide substantially better fade resistance, and won't get clogged with water on rainy days. If your car pushes under braking when the fronts lock and the rears don't, you should upgrade to discs.
 
what about the lower control arms, should he/me too, use the ones that are on the trailing arms with the disks or use the ones that are on the trailing arms with the drums?
 
Originally posted by ef9civicgen4@May 18 2004, 01:20 PM
what about the lower control arms, should he/me too, use the ones that are on the trailing arms with the disks or use the ones that are on the trailing arms with the drums?

It sucks I had to cut that one... haa haa im doing on the next one too Joel... cuase I dont give a fuck
 
Originally posted by ef9civicgen4@May 18 2004, 10:20 AM
what about the lower control arms, should he/me too, use the ones that are on the trailing arms with the disks or use the ones that are on the trailing arms with the drums?

either set should be fine. just make sure that thay connect to your springs/shocks. If one set has mounting points for a sway bar, you might choose those, as it makes attaching an OEM swaybar very easy.
 
>>>3. disc brake prop. valve (optional, but recommended)
4. larger master cylinder (optional, but recommended)<<<

Last time I checked on Autozone.com the model numbers for the prop valve and MC for both the Si and DX models were the same. Strange, but maybe you really don't need either?
 
I got the trailing arm off without cutting it :eek: lol
Is the 91 teg have a bigger MC than my 89 dx? and whats a prop. valve? because I have a 91 teg donor and need to get all the parts off asap.
And should i swap out my dx trailing arms so putting an oem sway bar on is easier. Or will the 91 teg sway bar fit on my dx hb?
Thanks for any help.
 
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