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89 Civic ZC DOHC Swap Problems/ Weird Bogging

Discussion in 'Civic and CRX - EF' started by kaotikblaze90, May 7, 2012.

  1. kaotikblaze90

    kaotikblaze90 New Member

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    first of its a 89 civic STD. the swap is done. the problem is i believe somewhere between 2-3k at WOT and slowly accelrating it bogs and farts like crazy. soon as i pass the 3k mark it hauls like it should.

    things ive checked.>
    TPS.. within range.
    it has adjustable cam because no matter what we did it would align perfectly. its been degreed +4

    it has a new dizzy too.

    any ideas regarding the lack of power :confused:
     
  2. daveholiday

    daveholiday Do work

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    Your ignition timing is set correctly I assume?
     
  3. kaotikblaze90

    kaotikblaze90 New Member

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    yes/ i assume so. i cant see the marks that well but it looked to be at 16 degrees
     
  4. daveholiday

    daveholiday Do work

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    I don't know what it should be at exactly, I can look it up at my shop tomorrow. Do you know the year and model of the donor car? We just had an 89 supra in with a similar problem, ignition timing was off which is why I asked in the first place.
     
  5. jlicrx

    jlicrx Senior Member

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    any codes showing at the ECU? - what ECU do you have?

    why can't you get camshaft timing correct? - why +4 degrees? - is this both cams or just one?

    TPS - what do you mean "within range" - it doesn't have a range - it should be approx. 0.5 volts at closed throttle and approx. 4.5 volts at wide open throttle and the voltage should transition smoothly from 0.5 to 4.5 as the throttle is opened
     
  6. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    Check wiring and connections from distributor to ECU. Check MAP sensor.
     
  7. kaotikblaze90

    kaotikblaze90 New Member

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    no codes. it was throwing code 5. hence the adj cams came into play it fixed that. and +4 degrees on the intake only

    TPS. Reads .512.. at WOT its 4.08 .. going to check how smooth it transitions.

    ill check out all my wiring to the ecu . it was a std. so dpfi to mpfi swap -.-
     
  8. kaotikblaze90

    kaotikblaze90 New Member

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    motor is blacktop 88-91 JDM ZC
     
  9. daveholiday

    daveholiday Do work

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    So, 3rd gen zc, d16a8/9 I believe?
     
  10. kaotikblaze90

    kaotikblaze90 New Member

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    similar yea block says zc
     
  11. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    ZC is ZC. D16A8/D16A9 were available in Rovers, that's a sedan sold in Europe. I believe the ZC's were only JDM available. The D16A1 was found in the 1989 Acura Integra and is also very close to the DOHC ZC's.
     
  12. dc4dude

    dc4dude Member

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    if it bogs, and pops and farts, at low rpms.. it sounds like you are losing spark somewhere (arcing) check your plug gap, and the plugs themselves, check the ignition wires, check your coil, and cap and rotor...
     
  13. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    I read this and chuckled. I thought ignition or MAP. Ignition on the low voltage & control side - so, I suggested checking wiring and connectors from dizzy to the ECU.

    You on the other hand, went after the high voltage side of the equation. Equally, it could be the culprit - maybe higher liklihood of a HV breakkdown. Cracked cap, bad rotor or moisture in the cap. Had 'em all at one time or another.
     
  14. jlicrx

    jlicrx Senior Member

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    sounds to me like a timing problem - i would guess that the camshaft timing is not correct which throws everything off - having the intake cam advanced 4 degrees would indicate to me that cam timing is not right
     
  15. Dual-500

    Dual-500 Well-Known Member VIP

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    ^ What does the timing light indicate? Anything suggested on the thread could be the cause - he needs to walk through it step by step until it's resolved.

    4 degree advance on the cam timing, 8 degrees relative to the crankshaft is a boatload of advance. I've never took one near that far, no idea how it would react.
     
  16. daveholiday

    daveholiday Do work

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    I guess what I don't understand is if it's a full swap why is any of the timing off, at all? I feel like unless you're fine tuning a build, everything should be at the oem specs.
     
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