89 Civic ZC DOHC Swap Problems/ Weird Bogging

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kaotikblaze90

New Member
first of its a 89 civic STD. the swap is done. the problem is i believe somewhere between 2-3k at WOT and slowly accelrating it bogs and farts like crazy. soon as i pass the 3k mark it hauls like it should.

things ive checked.>
TPS.. within range.
it has adjustable cam because no matter what we did it would align perfectly. its been degreed +4

it has a new dizzy too.

any ideas regarding the lack of power :confused:
 
I don't know what it should be at exactly, I can look it up at my shop tomorrow. Do you know the year and model of the donor car? We just had an 89 supra in with a similar problem, ignition timing was off which is why I asked in the first place.
 
any codes showing at the ECU? - what ECU do you have?

why can't you get camshaft timing correct? - why +4 degrees? - is this both cams or just one?

TPS - what do you mean "within range" - it doesn't have a range - it should be approx. 0.5 volts at closed throttle and approx. 4.5 volts at wide open throttle and the voltage should transition smoothly from 0.5 to 4.5 as the throttle is opened
 
no codes. it was throwing code 5. hence the adj cams came into play it fixed that. and +4 degrees on the intake only

TPS. Reads .512.. at WOT its 4.08 .. going to check how smooth it transitions.

ill check out all my wiring to the ecu . it was a std. so dpfi to mpfi swap -.-
 
daveholiday said:
So, 3rd gen zc, d16a8/9 I believe?
Click to expand...
ZC is ZC. D16A8/D16A9 were available in Rovers, that's a sedan sold in Europe. I believe the ZC's were only JDM available. The D16A1 was found in the 1989 Acura Integra and is also very close to the DOHC ZC's.
 
if it bogs, and pops and farts, at low rpms.. it sounds like you are losing spark somewhere (arcing) check your plug gap, and the plugs themselves, check the ignition wires, check your coil, and cap and rotor...
 
dc4dude said:
if it bogs, and pops and farts, at low rpms.. it sounds like you are losing spark somewhere (arcing) check your plug gap, and the plugs themselves, check the ignition wires, check your coil, and cap and rotor...
Click to expand...
I read this and chuckled. I thought ignition or MAP. Ignition on the low voltage & control side - so, I suggested checking wiring and connectors from dizzy to the ECU.

You on the other hand, went after the high voltage side of the equation. Equally, it could be the culprit - maybe higher liklihood of a HV breakkdown. Cracked cap, bad rotor or moisture in the cap. Had 'em all at one time or another.
 
sounds to me like a timing problem - i would guess that the camshaft timing is not correct which throws everything off - having the intake cam advanced 4 degrees would indicate to me that cam timing is not right
 
^ What does the timing light indicate? Anything suggested on the thread could be the cause - he needs to walk through it step by step until it's resolved.

4 degree advance on the cam timing, 8 degrees relative to the crankshaft is a boatload of advance. I've never took one near that far, no idea how it would react.
 
I guess what I don't understand is if it's a full swap why is any of the timing off, at all? I feel like unless you're fine tuning a build, everything should be at the oem specs.
 
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