89 CRX What to do?

[ne3ek]

I just got an 89 crx, it's the std model and it's an auto (what luck lol) now I have a couple gaols for the car after the escort gets where i want it to be (12s) after that I want a swap, but I'm not exactly sure what will fit my criteria if at all. Please let me know if I'm being realistic or not..

170+/- whp
< 140 tq
reliable
n/a, no spray (able to take would be nice)
Rev happy (not needed but a +)
Stock Exh! (not totally stock maybe 2.25" plumbing but resonated and muffled GOOD)
Smooth idle, great gas mileage and 87 octane safe!

Transmission.. I would prefer an lsd? What would work with the recomended motor? 5spd of course conversion would be no problem, I'll have the pedals and linkage/shifter soon enough anyways.

I also want to get some bars for it (strut, sway, tie, ect), what's good/inexspensive

Brakes! I want a great 4 wheel disc setup. dun really want aftermarket, what a good donar car(s)?

I know a good deal about hondas and I like them a lot, thats why i wanted to try one out. I love the rex so far and it just needs more grunt! but it needs to be able to be my winter car still!

Basically I want a great daily driver, and an good autox car. But I also want it to be friendly on my pocket as my escort is still my fav car

 

[brian11to1]

Ok...

If you want Cheap and Fast it wont be Reliable
If you want Fast and Reliable it wont be Cheap
If you want Reliable And Cheap it wont be Fast

Sorry had too...

Engine
First and foremost you'll need to convert from an auto to manual and vonvert from DPFI (Dual Point FI) to MPFI (Multi Point FI). For the engine a B16A (B16B from the Civic Type R) will give the best results for its money, its "Rev Happy" nor does it need NOS. an LS swap is nice too. From my expericen I love hte B16 Civic/CRX's... If you swap you may as well forget 87 Octane Safe. If you boost, same answer. For exhuast RS*R makes a wonderful product, its muffled and quiet, but deep.

Brakes/Supension
4 Wheel Disc? Check out a 90-93 Integra, it has 4 Wheel Dsic standard and they rear trailing arms will swap directly onto the Civic.CRX chassis. Or check out a 91 CRX Si or 91 CRX HF for its rear disc brakes. For the bars and such, Skunk2 makes them and various other brands... do some searching.

 

[ne3ek]

Originally posted by brian11to1@Nov 1 2004, 09:16 PM
Ok...

If you want Cheap and Fast it wont be Reliable
If you want Fast and Reliable it wont be Cheap
If you want Reliable And Cheap it wont be Fast

Sorry had too...

Engine
First and foremost you'll need to convert from an auto to manual and vonvert from DPFI (Dual Point FI) to MPFI (Multi Point FI). For the engine a B16A (B16B from the Civic Type R) will give the best results for its money, its "Rev Happy" nor does it need NOS. an LS swap is nice too. From my expericen I love hte B16 Civic/CRX's... If you swap you may as well forget 87 Octane Safe. If you boost, same answer. For exhuast RS*R makes a wonderful product, its muffled and quiet, but deep.

Brakes/Supension
4 Wheel Disc? Check out a 90-93 Integra, it has 4 Wheel Dsic standard and they rear trailing arms will swap directly onto the Civic.CRX chassis. Or check out a 91 CRX Si or 91 CRX HF for its rear disc brakes. For the bars and such, Skunk2 makes them and various other brands... do some searching.

[post=410365]Quoted post[/post]​

sorry, i didn't wanna seem like a total noob lo, hard to do so w/1 post but anyways. Ya I'm familiar with the dp vs mp My buddy has a b18b's ef sedan and the conversion had to be done to it.

I'm not sure if I want a b16 because of it's lack of torque.. and how much work does a b18a/b need to create roughly the amounts I'm looking for? What will sacrifice reliability?

My escort right now has a haltech e6k and it's pretty reliable lol, the only prob i have with it, is that it kills gas like a mofo and it only takes 93 octane (turbo)

I wanted my rex to be ballsy with all my daily driver comforts. lows 14s/high 13s would be prime! anyways just lemme know what you think.

and as far as the si/integra brake system, is there somewhere i can learn more about the propotioning valves/rotor diameters ect? And do i use the stock dx front brakes? are they sufficient? I haven't gotten a good look at them yet. thanks.

 

[BodyDroppedNikes]

first off let me welcome you to HondaSwap.com.

second off as a former 92 Escort GT owner i have to say good luck in your quest for 12s with it. i hope you either plan on boosting the GT motor or getting a GTX motor. either way

now for your questions:

engine: B16a1 or B18c1 will get you around the 170hp mark. both have great aftermarket support and are really reliable engines built right.

transmission: do an auto to manual swap and yes an LSD will do fine.

strut bars and such: Neuspeed, Skunk2 and Suspenison Techniques make real good quality parts. id go with those name brands. of course you can always use the eBay types but you get what you pay for.

brakes: look off of a 90-93 Integra as brian11to1 stated above. that would be your best bet.

i know you said you wanted to keep the cost relatively low, but here is my moto: If you wanna play, you have to pay. good luck and i hope this helps you out.

 

[brian11to1]

Originally posted by ne3ek@Nov 1 2004, 09:29 PM
sorry, i didn't wanna seem like a total noob lo, hard to do so w/1 post but anyways. Ya I'm familiar with the dp vs mp My buddy has a b18b's ef sedan and the conversion had to be done to it.

I'm not sure if I want a b16 because of it's lack of torque.. and how much work does a b18a/b need to create roughly the amounts I'm looking for? What will sacrifice reliability?

My escort right now has a haltech e6k and it's pretty reliable lol, the only prob i have with it, is that it kills gas like a mofo and it only takes 93 octane (turbo)

I wanted my rex to be ballsy with all my daily driver comforts. lows 14s/high 13s would be prime! anyways just lemme know what you think.

and as far as the si/integra brake system, is there somewhere i can learn more about the propotioning valves/rotor diameters ect? And do i use the stock dx front brakes? are they sufficient? I haven't gotten a good look at them yet. thanks.

[post=410371]Quoted post[/post]​

With the LS (B18A/B) you would need to do the basics to make more power... I/H/E/Cams etc... even raising compression to say, 11:1 or so wouldnt hurt. The high the Octane Fuel, the more power...

to get 13 sec 1/4's I believe the general rule of thumb is 140WHP is needed to do so. Which is 160'ish CHP...

 

[ne3ek]

Originally posted by TrailorParkPimp@Nov 1 2004, 09:35 PM
first off let me welcome you to HondaSwap.com.

second off as a former 92 Escort GT owner i have to say good luck in your quest for 12s with it. i hope you either plan on boosting the GT motor or getting a GTX motor. either way

now for your questions:

engine: B16a1 or B18c1 will get you around the 170hp mark. both have great aftermarket support and are really reliable engines built right.

transmission: do an auto to manual swap and yes an LSD will do fine.

strut bars and such: Neuspeed, Skunk2 and Suspenison Techniques make real good quality parts. id go with those name brands. of course you can always use the eBay types but you get what you pay for.

brakes: look off of a 90-93 Integra as brian11to1 stated above. that would be your best bet.

i know you said you wanted to keep the cost relatively low, but here is my moto: If you wanna play, you have to pay. good luck and i hope this helps you out.

[post=410373]Quoted post[/post]​

ya the escort right now has an e6k, a gtx motor 10-14psi, a spearco fmic, hard pipes and some other shit. mostly stock. I have in my basement a GTR turbo an manifold that should get me to the 400+whp mark... of course on stock internals

now back to the crx. So my beef with the b16a/b18c is that the low end is kinda lacking.. the idea of an n/a car for me is pull from 0-8000+ rpm. But it seems as though the b16a is my best route! hope to hear more opinions and thanks guys!

 

[ne3ek]

Originally posted by brian11to1+Nov 1 2004, 09:38 PM-->

ne3ek

@Nov 1 2004, 09:29 PM
sorry, i didn't wanna seem like a total noob lo, hard to do so w/1 post but anyways. Ya I'm familiar with the dp vs mp My buddy has a b18b's ef sedan and the conversion had to be done to it.

I'm not sure if I want a b16 because of it's lack of torque.. and how much work does a b18a/b need to create roughly the amounts I'm looking for? What will sacrifice reliability?

My escort right now has a haltech e6k and it's pretty reliable lol, the only prob i have with it, is that it kills gas like a mofo and it only takes 93 octane (turbo)

I wanted my rex to be ballsy with all my daily driver comforts. lows 14s/high 13s would be prime! anyways just lemme know what you think.

and as far as the si/integra brake system, is there somewhere i can learn more about the propotioning valves/rotor diameters ect? And do i use the stock dx front brakes? are they sufficient? I haven't gotten a good look at them yet. thanks.

[post=410371]Quoted post[/post]​

With the LS (B18A/B) you would need to do the basics to make more power... I/H/E/Cams etc... even raising compression to say, 11:1 or so wouldnt hurt. The high the Octane Fuel, the more power...

to get 13 sec 1/4's I believe the general rule of thumb is 140WHP is needed to do so. Which is 160'ish CHP...

[post=410374]Quoted post[/post]​

wow so maybe 160whp would be more than enough, which would be a b16 with shitloads of bolt ons right? i/h/e, pulleys, maybe a skunk2 intake mani.. whats the lowest octane a b16 can handle? midgrade would be fine for me (89)

 

[brian11to1]

Ive got a good idea, its waht Im doing with my Integra...

Buy a B20B ($900), Skunk2 IM ($200), JDM ITR Header ($350), Crower 62403's ($350), Crower ($150) or ITR ($125) Dual Valve springs and get down into the 14's, maybe 13's or better. You may want to step up the clutch and get a ITR flywheel. MY exact setup-to-be...

BRian

 

[brian11to1]

Originally posted by ne3ek+Nov 1 2004, 09:45 PM-->

Originally posted by brian11to1@Nov 1 2004, 09:38 PM
ne3ek

@Nov 1 2004, 09:29 PM
sorry, i didn't wanna seem like a total noob lo, hard to do so w/1 post but anyways. Ya I'm familiar with the dp vs mp My buddy has a b18b's ef sedan and the conversion had to be done to it.

I'm not sure if I want a b16 because of it's lack of torque.. and how much work does a b18a/b need to create roughly the amounts I'm looking for? What will sacrifice reliability?

My escort right now has a haltech e6k and it's pretty reliable lol, the only prob i have with it, is that it kills gas like a mofo and it only takes 93 octane (turbo)

I wanted my rex to be ballsy with all my daily driver comforts. lows 14s/high 13s would be prime! anyways just lemme know what you think.

and as far as the si/integra brake system, is there somewhere i can learn more about the propotioning valves/rotor diameters ect? And do i use the stock dx front brakes? are they sufficient? I haven't gotten a good look at them yet. thanks.

[post=410371]Quoted post[/post]​

With the LS (B18A/B) you would need to do the basics to make more power... I/H/E/Cams etc... even raising compression to say, 11:1 or so wouldnt hurt. The high the Octane Fuel, the more power...

to get 13 sec 1/4's I believe the general rule of thumb is 140WHP is needed to do so. Which is 160'ish CHP...

[post=410374]Quoted post[/post]​

wow so maybe 160whp would be more than enough, which would be a b16 with shitloads of bolt ons right? i/h/e, pulleys, maybe a skunk2 intake mani.. whats the lowest octane a b16 can handle? midgrade would be fine for me (89)

[post=410382]Quoted post[/post]​

More than likely 91 octane.

 

[ne3ek]

Originally posted by brian11to1@Nov 1 2004, 09:47 PM
Ive got a good idea, its waht Im doing with my Integra...

Buy a B20B ($900), Skunk2 IM ($200), JDM ITR Header ($350), Crower 62403's ($350), Crower ($150) or ITR ($125) Dual Valve springs and get down into the 14's, maybe 13's or better. You may want to step up the clutch and get a ITR flywheel. MY exact setup-to-be...

BRian

[post=410384]Quoted post[/post]​

thats a good suggestion.. i still have a lot of research to do but thanks for all the info guy

 

[Citizen_Insane]

I own a CRX HF with a b16 swap, and while I've never driven a 400whp escort, I can say that the CRX is a HELL of a lot of fun to drive. With the LSD tranny, you can probably hit mid 13's with a stripped crx...if you can drive (which I would assume, because you sound like you know what your talking about).

The lack of torque is a bit of a blessing with the CRX. It is reletivly easy to hookup when lauching with a b16 and it has lots of top end power. Fun car to drive. just thought I'd include my opinion because I have 1st hand experience.

 

[ne3ek]

Originally posted by ktanaka@Nov 2 2004, 12:42 AM
I own a CRX HF with a b16 swap, and while I've never driven a 400whp escort, I can say that the CRX is a HELL of a lot of fun to drive. With the LSD tranny, you can probably hit mid 13's with a stripped crx...if you can drive (which I would assume, because you sound like you know what your talking about).

The lack of torque is a bit of a blessing with the CRX. It is reletivly easy to hookup when lauching with a b16 and it has lots of top end power. Fun car to drive. just thought I'd include my opinion because I have 1st hand experience.

[post=410476]Quoted post[/post]​

so when does the crx start to pull with a b16? I drove my buddy's car.. he has a g2 integra with a b16 (he got a good deal lol) and it seems a bit doggy under like 4k but then again the da is a heavy ass car. I just dun wanna feel like im bogging around up hills and crap because my dad lives in a city with nothing but hills and hills lol.

 

[reckedracing]

the only problem with the B16 powered civic and crx's is the low torque of the motor itself

its a true race inspired motor, but to reach and maintain its potential while driving you need to keep the revs very high...

thats why your friends car seems to pull better over 4K, the B16 starts making power at 5K+

 

[Citizen_Insane]

By no means does the CRX feel underpowered below 4k, its just not as much fun as it is after 6k

Before my CRX I drove a 1990 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD and the CRX seems much more powerful even at low rpm's than the subaru.

 

[ne3ek]

Originally posted by ktanaka@Nov 2 2004, 10:01 AM
By no means does the CRX feel underpowered below 4k, its just not as much fun as it is after 6k

Before my CRX I drove a 1990 Subaru Legacy Wagon AWD and the CRX seems much more powerful even at low rpm's than the subaru.

[post=410545]Quoted post[/post]​

are there any mods to help the b16 with lowend since the top end is already so powerful?

 

[Citizen_Insane]

Well, about the only way to get more torque out of an N/A honda motor is to increase displacement. You can always mate a b16 head to a b20z or b18 block and run an LSVTEC or CRVTEC.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Raise compression or increase displacement to get more torque out of the B16.

I would build a low compression B20/VTEC. You can get the 170/140 at the wheels that you want and still run 87 octane with a large displacement B series VTEC setup. I would still just not worry about the 87 octane gas though- it's very limiting. You could build a high compression (around 12:1) B20/VTEC and make over 200whp/150lbft pretty easily, and that could take you deep into 13s or even 12s with the right traction and driving. It would still be daily driver reliable if you put everything together correctly too.

Brakes- hit up a 90-91 CRX Si. You can yank everything out of one and have it bolt right up to your 89.

Bars- try to get bars without any joints in them. Neuspeed makes good braces for not too much cash.

 

[ne3ek]

Originally posted by Calesta@Nov 2 2004, 12:34 PM
Raise compression or increase displacement to get more torque out of the B16.

I would build a low compression B20/VTEC. You can get the 170/140 at the wheels that you want and still run 87 octane with a large displacement B series VTEC setup. I would still just not worry about the 87 octane gas though- it's very limiting. You could build a high compression (around 12:1) B20/VTEC and make over 200whp/150lbft pretty easily, and that could take you deep into 13s or even 12s with the right traction and driving. It would still be daily driver reliable if you put everything together correctly too.

Brakes- hit up a 90-91 CRX Si. You can yank everything out of one and have it bolt right up to your 89.

Bars- try to get bars without any joints in them. Neuspeed makes good braces for not too much cash.

[post=410597]Quoted post[/post]​

see now that sounds badass, crvtec would be a good learning experience for me, but it'd probably take me a LONG time to do so as it's so expensive. what would you estimate the final cost would be? My escort needs a lot of crap before i can swap a motor in the rex, and i wanna do a lot of security first too.

 

[Citizen_Insane]

My swap totaled about $3500 with hubs, new rims (to fit over my new integra brakes), tires, and shit. I also reccomend using hasport mounts, thats what I'm using and they're geat; best name in the indsutry.

 

[phunky.buddha]

Originally posted by ne3ek@Nov 2 2004, 11:59 PM
see now that sounds badass, crvtec would be a good learning experience for me, but it'd probably take me a LONG time to do so as it's so expensive. what would you estimate the final cost would be? My escort needs a lot of crap before i can swap a motor in the rex, and i wanna do a lot of security first too.

[post=410969]Quoted post[/post]​

Maybe $7000? It really all depends on what parts you pick for your build. If you want to go cheap, you could rebuild a DOHC ZC block and turbo the hell out of it with a well picked out budget turbo setup, and that could easily run you deep into the 13s for not too much cash.