89 CRX What to do?

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Originally posted by brian11to1+Nov 4 2004, 11:32 AM-->
What's Panda Motors?
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civicious
@Nov 4 2004, 11:38 AM
honda block with dsm pistons, i think...
and b20/vtec is the shizzy.
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There was a guy on Honda-Tech that went by the name "TurboPanda"... he was in Malaysia (I think) and was selling older Supra forged pistons and B16 rod combos. Supposedly they work fine in D16 blocks and can handle quite a bit of abuse. They were something like $400 a set, so it was much cheaper than buying aftermarket forged pistons to go into the D16s.
 
ya 7k is way more than i want to spend on the crx. Hondas cost so much more to build lol.

my escort, i paid 900 for my motor.. 1.8 turbo mazda engine 180 hp 180ft/lbs

I dropped it in, no mount kit or anything, i colormatched and did 6 wires! lol and it worked.. stock escort ecu and harness. I dyno'd it and made 174 whp 176 ftlbs @ 8psi with the stock escort 1 7/8" exh, stock cat, resonator muffler everything. All i had was hardpipes and an fmic. Setup probably ran me around 3k+ (i replaced all gaskets, water pump, ect ect ect) just the swap was probably about 2k. Now I have a haltech and a turbo upgrade sitting in my room, basically I'll be seeing 400whp for about 4-5k the stock internals take ~500whp tuned.

SO i decided the honda will get what ever motor comes a long for a good price, and im gonna take my time. I'm not gonna set my goals high if at all. Thanks for all the help guys and maybe when i blow up my escort I'll get the rex to run 11s lol, but I really just want the crx to able to take me to work and back as of now. again thanks guys, I don't want you to seem like you wasted your time.. i learned a lot! hondas still rock :p
 
Well, $7k would be all new parts, machine shop work and a bunch of other "premium" items.... and if you want to go all motor. You could easily pull 12s with a much cheaper junkyard turbo setup on all stock internal engine with proper turbo sizing and tuning.
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Nov 5 2004, 01:11 AM
Well, $7k would be all new parts, machine shop work and a bunch of other "premium" items.... and if you want to go all motor. You could easily pull 12s with a much cheaper junkyard turbo setup on all stock internal engine with proper turbo sizing and tuning.
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ya lol, well i guess the main thing is that turbo is WAY cheaper than n/a and i guess they shouldnt be compared. But i do wanna keep the crx n/a.
 
Originally posted by ne3ek+Nov 5 2004, 08:26 AM-->
@Nov 5 2004, 01:11 AM
Well, $7k would be all new parts, machine shop work and a bunch of other "premium" items.... and if you want to go all motor. You could easily pull 12s with a much cheaper junkyard turbo setup on all stock internal engine with proper turbo sizing and tuning.
[post=412416]Quoted post[/post]​


ya lol, well i guess the main thing is that turbo is WAY cheaper than n/a and i guess they shouldnt be compared. But i do wanna keep the crx n/a.
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Well, N/A has a better power curve for road course racing, and drag is better suited for turbo cars- especially large turbos. I prefer N/A, but that's me. All you highway racers and drag guys out there might like the turbo setups better. :)
 
Originally posted by ne3ek+Nov 1 2004, 09:29 PM-->
brian11to1
@Nov 1 2004, 09:16 PM
Ok...

If you want Cheap and Fast it wont be Reliable
If you want Fast and Reliable it wont be Cheap
If you want Reliable And Cheap it wont be Fast


Sorry had too...

Engine
First and foremost you'll need to convert from an auto to manual and vonvert from DPFI (Dual Point FI) to MPFI (Multi Point FI). For the engine a B16A (B16B from the Civic Type R) will give the best results for its money, its "Rev Happy" nor does it need NOS.  an LS swap is nice too. From my expericen I love hte B16 Civic/CRX's... If you swap you may as well forget 87 Octane Safe. If you boost, same answer. For exhuast RS*R makes a wonderful product, its muffled and quiet, but deep.

Brakes/Supension
4 Wheel Disc? Check out a 90-93 Integra, it has 4 Wheel Dsic standard and they rear trailing arms will swap directly onto the Civic.CRX chassis. Or check out a 91 CRX Si or 91 CRX HF for its rear disc brakes. For the bars and such, Skunk2 makes them and various other brands... do some searching.
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sorry, i didn't wanna seem like a total noob lo, hard to do so w/1 post but anyways. Ya I'm familiar with the dp vs mp My buddy has a b18b's ef sedan and the conversion had to be done to it.

I'm not sure if I want a b16 because of it's lack of torque.. and how much work does a b18a/b need to create roughly the amounts I'm looking for? What will sacrifice reliability?

My escort right now has a haltech e6k and it's pretty reliable lol, the only prob i have with it, is that it kills gas like a mofo and it only takes 93 octane (turbo)

I wanted my rex to be ballsy with all my daily driver comforts. lows 14s/high 13s would be prime! anyways just lemme know what you think.

and as far as the si/integra brake system, is there somewhere i can learn more about the propotioning valves/rotor diameters ect? And do i use the stock dx front brakes? are they sufficient? I haven't gotten a good look at them yet. thanks.
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b16s have more then enough torque for a crx it will fill pretty strong
 
Originally posted by 91crx+Nov 6 2004, 12:38 AM-->
Originally posted by ne3ek@Nov 1 2004, 09:29 PM
brian11to1
@Nov 1 2004, 09:16 PM
Ok...

If you want Cheap and Fast it wont be Reliable
If you want Fast and Reliable it wont be Cheap
If you want Reliable And Cheap it wont be Fast


Sorry had too...

Engine
First and foremost you'll need to convert from an auto to manual and vonvert from DPFI (Dual Point FI) to MPFI (Multi Point FI). For the engine a B16A (B16B from the Civic Type R) will give the best results for its money, its "Rev Happy" nor does it need NOS.  an LS swap is nice too. From my expericen I love hte B16 Civic/CRX's... If you swap you may as well forget 87 Octane Safe. If you boost, same answer. For exhuast RS*R makes a wonderful product, its muffled and quiet, but deep.

Brakes/Supension
4 Wheel Disc? Check out a 90-93 Integra, it has 4 Wheel Dsic standard and they rear trailing arms will swap directly onto the Civic.CRX chassis. Or check out a 91 CRX Si or 91 CRX HF for its rear disc brakes. For the bars and such, Skunk2 makes them and various other brands... do some searching.
[post=410365]Quoted post[/post]​


sorry, i didn't wanna seem like a total noob lo, hard to do so w/1 post but anyways. Ya I'm familiar with the dp vs mp My buddy has a b18b's ef sedan and the conversion had to be done to it.

I'm not sure if I want a b16 because of it's lack of torque.. and how much work does a b18a/b need to create roughly the amounts I'm looking for? What will sacrifice reliability?

My escort right now has a haltech e6k and it's pretty reliable lol, the only prob i have with it, is that it kills gas like a mofo and it only takes 93 octane (turbo)

I wanted my rex to be ballsy with all my daily driver comforts. lows 14s/high 13s would be prime! anyways just lemme know what you think.

and as far as the si/integra brake system, is there somewhere i can learn more about the propotioning valves/rotor diameters ect? And do i use the stock dx front brakes? are they sufficient? I haven't gotten a good look at them yet. thanks.
[post=410371]Quoted post[/post]​



b16s have more then enough torque for a crx it will fill pretty strong
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ya 2 of my buddies have b16 crx's, i might give one of em a call and ask for a ride
 
Originally posted by brian11to1@Nov 6 2004, 04:56 PM
You shoulda done that a long time ago.
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ya lol but i kinda had a one track mind of excluding the b16, so i guess now it doesnt seem that bad.
 
Originally posted by Calesta@Nov 5 2004, 05:14 PM
Well, N/A has a better power curve for road course racing, and drag is better suited for turbo cars- especially large turbos. I prefer N/A, but that's me. All you highway racers and drag guys out there might like the turbo setups better. :)
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09_1.JPG
 
alright, yes i'm a newbie, but i have to mention it. I heard u wanted to stay w/ 87 octane. good man. little do most people know, the lower the octane rating the more power u get from the fuel itself. for 87 octane, i don't think i'd go over 10:1 MAYBE 10.3:1. but that's gonna be pushing it. u'r gonna have to do most of u'r mods on the outside of the engine, but u could still easily get the 170 whp u want out of a solid b-series.
 
Originally posted by honda_luvr_2000@Nov 12 2004, 01:45 PM
alright, yes i'm a newbie, but i have to mention it. I heard u wanted to stay w/ 87 octane. good man. little do most people know, the lower the octane rating the more power u get from the fuel itself. for 87 octane, i don't think i'd go over 10:1 MAYBE 10.3:1. but that's gonna be pushing it. u'r gonna have to do most of u'r mods on the outside of the engine, but u could still easily get the 170 whp u want out of a solid b-series.
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You're dumber than a bag of hammers.
 
Originally posted by civicious@Nov 13 2004, 04:42 PM
You're dumber than a bag of hammers.
[post=416453]Quoted post[/post]​


It's tru the lower the octane rating of a fuel the easier the fuel will burn. y do u think they have 105 octane gas? because the cars that NEED it run outrageous compressions or r wildly boosted, and when u compress air that much it gets damn hot. if they used 87 octane they'd be blowing up motors instantly. just look at turbo kits for that matter. y do u have an intercooler? u'r compressing air w/ the turbo, then it's run thru an intercooler to cool it down. y cool it? because when the turbo compressed it, it got heated up and not from the fact that exhaust gasses were passing thru the other half of the turbo. so back to the octane rating, the higher the octane rating, the harder it is to light off the gas. so if u r running like 9:1 compression on an NA engine, use 87 octane and it will be more powerful in that motor than 93 octane. basicly the octane rating has to do w/ the amount of crap they put in the gas to keep it from burning versus the amount of octane in the gas. maybe this will help... Webster's dictionary:
Octane number n. A number measuring the the antiknock rating of gasoline, based on the percentage of a particular form of octane contained in a sample of gasoline.
Octane n. 1. Any of several hydrocarbon compounds occuring in petroleum. 2. Octane number.
knocking occurs when the gasoline detonates or preignites.
detonation occurs when it is compressed and super heated but still after the spark plug lights. it is a second flame front that comes across the combustion chamber and meets the spark-ignited flame and causes a very unstable explosion in the combustion chamber.
pre-ignition is just wut its name says, the compressed air/fuel ignites before the spark plug is ignited. this is caused again by the air/fuel being superheated, mostly from over compression, or sharp points or pieces that should not be in the combustion chamber glowing red hot.
go ask a seasoned mechanic, or a knowledgeable gas station attendant about octane numbers.
if anyone can actually prove me wrong, please do. if not, then don't try to tell me i don't know wut i'm talkin about just cuz i'm a noob
 
You know what, you're absolutely correct. The whole 'higher octane ratings are better' thing is a big gimmick so that the gas stations can make more money.



















As a matter of fact, I put 4 gallons of water in my brother's prelude today and ran a 12.30.
 
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