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90 civic si rear drum conversion help

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by Chavezcraz, May 28, 2010.

  1. Chavezcraz

    Chavezcraz got bseries?

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    ok i have a 90 civic si, and a donor 91 tegra da. i'm swapping the brakes over tomorrow. i have already grabbed the 4040 proportioning valvle off the da and put it on the civic. do i have to swap the brake booster and the master cylinder? i was going to just swap the master cylinder due to it's larger size but when i got to looking i saw it wouldn't fit.
    Honda BB
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    Tegra BB
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    I have a step by step on how to do the swap and what to remove REAR DISK BRAKE CONVERSION w/pics - Honda-Tech , i'm actually going to remove the gas tank on the integra since it has no title and i'm scrapping it. I will not be pulling the tank on the honda. Put some penetrating oil on my bolts tonight so it will be easier tomorrow. I have hear on here that i can use the master cylinder from a 88-91 4 door so i'm going to go look for one tomorrow. Someone said i can use the front suspension also, but i have coilovers on my ef shell, will i still be able to use them with the da front suspension? Also, they say i will have to use another tie rod? Any ideas. Thanks all.
     
  2. Chavezcraz

    Chavezcraz got bseries?

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    the 4040 on the civic

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  3. DeathInACRX

    DeathInACRX New Member

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    if you want to use another master cylinder use 92-95 civic it bolts up, so ive heard
     
  4. autox 89 dx

    autox 89 dx Member

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    you dont have to I didnt and it works fine
     
  5. UNDR8D

    UNDR8D ...has a job!

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    It's not a necessity, nor is the prop. valve
     
  6. autox 89 dx

    autox 89 dx Member

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    Im pretty you have to change it to the 40/40
     
  7. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    If you have the Integra booster and master cylinder it will bolt up like stock and peform great.
     
  8. UNDR8D

    UNDR8D ...has a job!

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    My eg stopped hard. It had DC2 rear disc with a 15/16" SI master cylinder and the stock prop valve.
     
  9. Chavezcraz

    Chavezcraz got bseries?

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    ok kewl, i mean i could change the brake booster and master cylinder but i don't really want to take apart the civic's dash. i always seem to lose/break alot of the clips and such. well atleast i got the 4040 on there. thanks again for everyones advise and guidance. the b18 will be in the civic in the next 2 weekends finally. just doing some little things here and there to get it ready. i have alot of pictures that i'll throw into a build thread!
     
  10. 78civic

    78civic Junior Member

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    Your not taking apart the dash.. Just the booster off. Depending on how large you are, pull the drivers seat and lay under there, find the clip that holds the ram-shaft/pin to the peddle, remove clip and pin.
    Get two or one long 3/8" extension with a 12mm deep socket on and start to loosen the 4 nuts that hold the booster to the firewall.
    Now, after you have cut yourself a couple times and have back spasms (or if youre over 35 and get dizzy from being up side down..)

    Loosen the lines to the M/C (after draining the res with paper towels).
    Pull with a wiggling motion and it should come off slowly. Keep the foam gaskets in place if at all possible one piece too.
    Check the M/C (separate the two) that will be going back on that there isn't all that nasty crusty soaked crap in the back. IF so, you may want to look for another M/C. (after time they loose the seal in the back and start sucking in brake fluid to the booster or leaking it inside to the carpet Just take a look at your pic of the outside of the booster..!)
    If all is well, bench bleed the M/C by using some scrap brake line going from the outlets curled back to the res. (you DID clean the res of all that black crap by taking it off and cleaning with 'brake-clean' didn't you??)
    With them below the surface of the fluid, you can stop any air from getting back into the system.
    Use a long screwdriver to push in and keep doing so 'til no more air comes from the two lines now in the res.
    Re-mount booster/M/C and connect the two lines, put seat back in and then jack up the whole car, pull the rims off all corners, support safely, get a 'competent' helper that knows which peddle is which!! (Not one that will be pushing on the clutch making you think you screwed up Somewhere..!)
    Now the prop valve criss/crosses so if the brakes lock up you wont loose control. SO, you have to start to bleed air from the R/RR---Fr/L, L/RR---Fr/R... and keep doing so in that order until you don't have ANY air coming from the bleeders.
    If you doo keep getting air, you have a brake somewhere sucking air. (a little trick is to pull the bleeders out and use some anti-sieze grease to help seal the threading Northern areas have more rust, therefore may need to clean/drill out the bleeders and shove some grease in the cap)

    Now you get to put everything back on/together, start the car and depending on the quality of the booster, have a nice hard peddle or somewhat spongy one.

    I've done it a couple times..
    E
     
  11. Chavezcraz

    Chavezcraz got bseries?

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    thank you 78civic i appreciate you input. i think i'll go after a new brake booster seeing how i want nice stiff brakes. i'm a bigger guy but have removed seats to do dash work on other cars, which is where my fear of breaking/losing parts comes from. i see what you were saying about the brake fluid leaking into the brake booster, also noticed the rust under the master cylinder, that's why i think i'm just going to go for a new setup. thanks again, much appreciated!
     
  12. Chavezcraz

    Chavezcraz got bseries?

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    Broke 2 bolts taking the rear discs off the acura

    ****UPDATED****

    I broke 2 bolts taking the rear discs off the donor acura. The first bolt i broke is where the the shot meats the lower arm of the assembly. I was still able to remove the entire setup by undoing the top bolts of the shock. i then tried to take the bottom bolt off to release the arm that had the shock mounted to it. i used a breaker bar and it lived up to its name literally. the drives side came off with no issues. but the passenger side was all rusted. the top mount that has 2 bolts broke also but i was able to just pry those through the housing they were welded to and get them off. what is the best way to get these bolts out? tap and drill? i have never done this, i hope it isn't too difficult. i could just buy a new passenger side assembly but trying to spend as little of money as i can. any suggests i definitely appreciate. i added some pics so you all can see them. thanks

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    Passenger Side Assembly With Shock Still Mounted Because Of The Broken Bolt
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    Back Side Up On Bench
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    Both Broken Bolts
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  13. UNDR8D

    UNDR8D ...has a job!

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    Hammer the fucking thing out and buy a new bolt. The nut on the other side is not fixed so with a punch and a 4 lb. sledge it should come right out.
     
  14. GlassHeadlights

    GlassHeadlights West West Yall

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    Indeed. As long as your civic control arm bolts and such aren't seized you're ok.
     
  15. Chavezcraz

    Chavezcraz got bseries?

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    the bolts appeared to be attached when i removed the drivers side asembly. it doesn't appear to be an extreme attachment however, didn't see any weld points on the bolt. i tried to knock the bolt out but it was in there pretty good. i didn't go all midevil on it just yet, wanted to get your guys' opinions. but i guess i'll try to knock it out with a 3/8 extension and a sledge hammer. thanks all!
     
  16. EFDX

    EFDX New Member

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    cut the bolt with a hacksaw between the shock and lca bushing, once cut (you might need to do both sides) it will seperate, replace the bushing, dont bother trying to get the bolt out of the bushing
     
  17. UNDR8D

    UNDR8D ...has a job!

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    If you have an impact gun I would just put it on the other nut and spin it hard until it breaks free inside and out. Then it should come out easily.
     
  18. Chavezcraz

    Chavezcraz got bseries?

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    Ok, i tried and tried to sledge those damn bolts out. Heated them, penetrating oil. I just simply couldn't get them to budge. So i took a cutting wheel to them and finally got the shock free and the control arm free. The bushings are toast because the bolt is totally seized in there. Someone told me to just get new bushings, i just wanted to see what i could do to free them, but he was right and they aren't budging. I'm new to all this, so what are the bushings i need to get? Or can i use the control arm off the civic? I haven't even started removing them on the civic just yet seeing the issues i ran into on removing the assembly on the acura. I apologize if i'm not calling the parts by their correct name. Also, i read that in order to remove the old bushings i can just torch them out, but what's the best way of getting the new ones in? Just beat em in there? haha Again, any help is much appreciated. I couldn't have gotten as far as i have already without you guys. I have added some pictures.

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  19. UNDR8D

    UNDR8D ...has a job!

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    Those bushings are harder to replace than you might think. You should have used the impact gun. I would take it to a machine shop and see if they can press the bolt out of the hole before I tried to replace those bushings
     
  20. Chavezcraz

    Chavezcraz got bseries?

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    i did try the impact. i wasn't able to get them free unfortunately. any idea if the control arms from the civic are the same?
     
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