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90 integra auto 99 b18 swap

Discussion in 'Integra' started by retroblew240, Oct 2, 2008.

  1. retroblew240

    retroblew240 New Member

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    Newbie. I have a 90 integra and have had great time with it. Now its burning oil and the check oil light is coming on. Anyways, I want to put the same b18 from a 00' integra and was wondering if it is bolt-on requiring only the ecu from the 00' integra. I plan to also use the automatic transmission that came along the 00'. The guy selling it said it was it was straight bolt-on because everything would be include even the harness to the ecu. Thanks for any Help
     
  2. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    It's a bolt-in, yes. But the wiring is not quite that simple. You'll need to do some kind of OBD conversion...
     
  3. dibble

    dibble New Member

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    IF both of these 'Teggies' are stock, they shouldn't have the same B18 in them - the 90 should be the B18A1 and the '00 should be the B18B1; also, if the 90 is GS/RS or LS it should have the OBD 1 (any other non-specified model shouldn't have any OBD system), and the '00 models GS/RS/LS & SE should have the OBD 2 system (can't say about any other non-specified models). Looks to me like the 'long block' is identical, so shouldn't be any problem with a straight-across swap mechanically, but electronically there are consideration that are worth of careful forethought, as I see it. Besides just the ECU and it's own harness, because the '00 undoubtedly will have some 'externals' (emissions sensors n stuff, and maybe different relays, etc) that the 90 doesn't have, the entire harness might be different; I suggest that the entire harness will be different on that account. You can check that with your Acura dealership, then make the necessary arrangements, or decide whether or not you want a fully-connected and -functioning OBD 2 system. If your 90 doesn't have any OBD system (ie: NOT a GS/RS or LS model), chances are that the existing entire harness in the 90 isn't going to be missing wires and plugs for only one or two sensors and/or relays - and I'm not talking only of the ECU harness itself. And outside of the long blocks being identical as far as I can tell, it's entirely likely that they'll have a different distributor. Looks like there's a 2 hp increase in the B1 over the A1, and you already know about the different ECUs.

    I can advise you of this stuff, b/c I've just been researching it for myself, b/c I can't find a good used A1 around here anywhere (southern Saskatchewan) to replace my nephew's toasted one in his 90, so I've been looking myself at possible alternatives, and I've found that there simply aren't any other than getting into exactly the same situation as you're looking at. Because my nephew's is not a GS/RS or LS, he's got no OBD system at all, and if I decide to use a B1, it's 'externals' will be more involved, which is no problem; we just ignore them or use the externals off of the A1 & put them onto the B1.

    Hope this helps. I have to plug pissedoffsol on this very site for having gone to the trouble of setting up his research info sites - thanks a lot for both of us, pissedoffsol!

    dibble
     
  4. BrutalB83

    BrutalB83 Brutal Moderator Moderator VIP

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    Dibble, I think you're a bit confused. I don't know what trim levels you have up there in Saskatchewan, but down here in the states there is nothing besides the RS, LS, and GS. The RS is the base model, and the LS/GS are the higher end ones. Also, if it's a 1990 model year car, then it should be OBD0, not OBD1...
     
  5. dibble

    dibble New Member

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    BrutalB83 & retroblew240:
    Certainly can't disagree with your response to mine to retro y'day, as I KNOW that my nephew's has been falsely re-badged as Vtec on the body, I don't trust what it might otherwise display elsewhere, either. I've been in the process today of attempting to positively ID this 90 hatchback by it's VIN as to it's 'grade' (RS/LS/GS) by the 8th digit, which in this case is '4.', but so far, I've been unable to find a site/link with the appropriate VIN decoding info. Perhaps somebody could help me out here with a referral?? I've already got the Honda decodes from pissedoffsol's stuff on this very site, as well as his dist & ECU codes, and his Honda engine list. This is the info that I had been researching just prior to trying to assist retroblew, thinking at the time that I had interpreted the engine list correctly. But today, I realized that I might not have due to the fact that when I printed that list, my page 1 and page 2 wound up splitting the two versions of the ..A1 as one on one page and the other on the second page. Since then, I've sent pissedoff a msg trying to clarify the accuracy of my interpretation , and yet since then, @ Acuraworld.com, I've seen the 90-91 OBD-0* number-coded as the B18A and the 92-93 OBD-1 coded as the B18A1. But the engine (at least the block) is stamped on the boss close to the rear half-way down from the top on the exhaust(right) side, very clearly B18A1. So clearly, I'm not yet fully confident that I know what the hell's going on with my nephew's, but still working on it. Notwithstanding that I know over the years, there are often asthetic variations between US and Cdn models of the same name, I can't disagree with your take on the different grades available - that's where I hope to fully satisfy myself as to the accurate ID of this one from the VIN decoding and yet further checking as to eng/chassis #s matching as they should or shouldn't as the case might be, if necessary.
    Regardless of my having likely been confused as to my own situation though, you're still upgrading from a lesser OBD system (likely as Brutal points out, OBD-0) to an OBD-2, and so I stand behind the rest of what I wrote you y'day. It used to be that the manufacturers tried wherever possible, to make things as common as they could between different models and years, but today with the rapidity of technological advancements and such a wide variation in options even within the same line and model and year, I doubt that it's very practical to attempt to do that any longer unless you're looking at a line where there's been very little change in the same line for several model years, and that same line had a very limited number of options. And in the case of the ten-year spread between your swaps complete with a two-generation jump in electronics/emissions systems under the hood especially, I'm sure you can go to the bank on having to make the choice of either: 1) acquire the appropriate harness(s) - that'll be probably close to half of your underhood harnesses, and quite possibly even some of the under-dash stuff as well, all of it to enable the sensors, relays, etc, for a fully-functioning OBD system; this is all in addition to the ECU and it's own separate harness(s) OR 2) eliminate the OBD system from operating at all, which these days, is probably NOT very advisable due to legally having to meet emissions standards, which is almost if not absolutely impossible to do
    without the OBD because it and the emissions systems are so interconnected, they're practically one and the same. And to take this latter option also carries the probability of developing intermittent and ocassionally ongoing vacuum leaks, which can be problematic enough all by themselves. Buuuuutt MAYBE it MIGHT be possible to pass emissions tests without the OBD system functioning - you'd have to get someone with a hell of a lot more knowledge than I possess in that very particular area to advise you as to that possibility and what that woul;d involve and for what cost and at what chance of succeeding - OR maybe depending on your locale, you might not be too concerned about that entire aspect of it.
    I don't mean to burst your balloon here, and I'm not always as pessimistic as I might seem here, but I've been twisting wrenches for almost 40 years, and I've learned the hard way over those many years that a lot of forethought, anticipation of potential problems and trying to work out theoretical solutions to such problems BEFORE you even start something of this magnitude, can save one a real load of grief.
    If you're changing from a manual to an auto trans, you'll probably be getting into having to do a few minor mods for vacuum and fluid cooling lines, and possibly changing out rads, as well. As well, look thoroughly beforehand into mounting differences, primarily I think with any cross-member mounting situations - trans to eng should be no problem outside of you might have to change the bellhousing over as well.
    I don't profess to be any kind of quasi-mechanic on Honda/Acura, as I've only been working on four different ones ocassionally for the past two years. I'm certain that there's lots more help here from others that are very much more knowledgeable than I am, should you need it.

    Good Luck, retroblew!!
     
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