90's Si mini-me

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TellMe7

New Member
Alright, so my friends is telling me to do a mini-me swap on my 1990 Civic Si d16a6 engine and they told me I need to buy a head from a y8 or y7 and a p28 ECU. Well, other than the head and ECU what else will I need? Do I need obd0-obd1 conversion harness?
 
Alright, so my friends is telling me to do a mini-me swap on my 1990 Civic Si d16a6 engine and they told me I need to buy a head from a y8 or y7 and a p28 ECU. Well, other than the head and ECU what else will I need? Do I need obd0-obd1 conversion harness?

Y7 is non-vtec. I think he means Z6 or Y8. The P28 is a fine choice of computer. Other than that, if your gonna use the P28 you'll have to get an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness. Then all you'll have to do is wire up for Vtec i believe.
 
Y7 is non-Vtec. I think he means a Z6 or Y8 head. P28 is always a good choice. But yes, you'll have to do an OBD0 to OBD1 conversion harness, if your going to use the P28. The only thing you really have to wire up is Vtec.
 
Ok i'll try a z6 head and do you guy know how much a z6 head cost??
 
OK.....theres 2 other ways to go BESIDES going obd1 because going obd1 is just too much trouble. put a z6 or y8 head on (y8 will make it alil higher compression) u can use your stock intake and exhaust mani, and your distributor will bolt up also. now you can either 1:: use your stock pm6 and go out and get a vafc and wire it in and you got vtec (yay!) or 2:: just go out and buy you either a pr3 or pw0 ecu (obd0 jdm b16 ecu/redline 8200) it will plug right up all you have to do is run the vtec wires (yay!).

so ya.....OBD0 FTW!!!
 
any 3 of those ways are going to cost about the same but the obd1 conv IS going to be more expensive. theres nothing wrong w/ a vafc. and its not the wrong ecu, the only way it would destroy itself is if he took it to redline constantly which u would have to be retarded to, thats y i listed that it redlines at 8200, i wasnt encouraging him to do it. yes obd1 has the best potential for tuning on ANY program, but as of now w/ just a mini-me, theres not really any reason for tuning.

id run my obd0/BRE setup against your obd1/Crome setup anyday.
 
Yeah, you're right. Exact tuning isn't anywhere near as useful as a VAFC/SAFC. Again, welcome to 2007.

The fuel cutoff for D16s is at 7600rpm for a reason. An accidental rev to 8200rpm will, more likely than not, float a valve and cause some internal engine damage. Totally worth being a cheap-ass. :thumbsup:

The cost of an OBDI conversion depends on how much you can do yourself and whether or not you get a distributor with the head. It cost $250 for a VAFC, or $105 for an OBDI conversion harness, $120 for a P28, and $80 for a 4-wire O2 sensor. It isn't that much more expensive.

You go ahead and take this personally, because I'm not. :)

random:
i was suprised by this but, my friend has a stock z6 in his 4g and running it on a chipped pr3 (9000 redline/dont ask me y) and he said sometimes he takes it all the way to 9. i had another friend w/ a z6 in a 5g coupe who took it up to 8 constantly. but what im saying is, theres not really a BIG chance on floating a valve. honda motors can take alot of abuse.

but u dont understand, im not taking this personally but for some reason you think because shit is cheaper that its not worth doing. im giving him other alternatives to obd1. they all work just fine. its not like im telling him to rig some ghetto shit up like hooking up his solenoid to a toggle switch or anything. your the one who started off telling me that i basically rig shit up when they are all possible ways and they all work perfectly fine. im not sitting here dogging on your input like you are mine. i dont have a prob w/ obd1, i have a obd1 conversion harness sitting in my room. ive just found alternative ways that were easier for me.
 
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