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91 CRX + built LS + snail

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> ED-EF / DA' started by spoolin@idle, Nov 13, 2006.

  1. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    Hello everyone. First things first, I've been around Hondas for years. I know many things, but would not exactly consider myself an expert by any means. I've worked on many, including a K20a2 swap into my friend's EG coupe and several several turbo projects ranging from junkyard to full race. My roommate just blew up his mildly built cammed Y7 running 6 psi at 10:1 compression (threw a rod threw the block girdle... and the oil pan). So fuck a D series.

    I work at a four star restaurant and make decent enough money to start funding a project in which I've had my eyes on for quite some time. For total simplicity, I've chosen LS. I would like to do a complete NON-VTEC LS, fully built (pistons & rods, block guard, etc) with of course headwork, valvetrain, cams, oh and a GT35R. My total outlook for power is about 400 to the tire on a considerable amount of boost with a moderately conservative tune as far as timing goes. I've chosen a 91 CRX as the platform car. Planning on using a PIC suspension drag shock setup with DR's as this car will not be daily driven but it will be a street car. I've got my Accord for a daily.

    This would be my first venture into a B series project myself as conidentally all my other work has been done with D series or cars that had a factory B series... or well... the K swap but that's a different story. So I'm needing about as much information as possible. I understand I would use the B series axles with the CRX hubs. Are LS transmissions cable or hydro and is there any in particular I should look out for?

    Thanks for the help fellas!
     
  2. igotnothin

    igotnothin New Member

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    umm the trany depends on year, i belive. obd1 is cable obd2 is hydro. i could be wrong but you can check that. you will need the b to crx mounts. special shift linkage, a well built ls motor with 9:1 pistons. idk if i would use a block guard, 400 hp not exactly nesicary ona B. you will need to either convert the engine to obd0 or the car to 0bd1. 0bd1 offers more options for tunning. good luck hooking up with 400 hp to the wheels even with a limited slip. but that should be a fun car.
     
  3. anarchiaetpax

    anarchiaetpax Junior Member

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    The transmission will depend upon the year but obd1 isn't cable to my knowledge.

    Obd0 - Integra XSi, CRX SiR, etc. - cable transmissions
    Obd1 - Del Sols, etc. - hydro
    I believe '93 and on would have been hydraulically actuated..

    EFB1 CRX for non hydro tranny, EFB2 for the one with the hydro-conversion piece (or the equivilent from another maker)

    Any B series transmission will mate up to any B series engine pretty much, so I'd really recommend going with a GSR or even ITR transmission if budget allows with the B18 A/B engine since the gearing will be closer and thus faster acceleration but poorer fuel efficency.

    You'll need to do some wiring as the previous poster noted, depending upon your needs (rywire does excellent work if you'd rather avoid that hassle).

    You can find a list of needed components via search
     
    Last edited: Nov 13, 2006
  4. formby

    formby learning in progress

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    92-93 tegs are obd1 and came with cable tranny
     
  5. anarchiaetpax

    anarchiaetpax Junior Member

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    Got me, I was double checking my facts and realised I was wrong but didn't get in the reply before you did :p
     
  6. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    yea my plan is to convert the car to OBD1 as I'm proficient in tuning with both Chrome and Uberdata. I've already got a Boomslang OBD0 > OBD1 conversion harness.

    I'm curious how well the B series transmissions hold up to say 400 hp.
     
  7. igotnothin

    igotnothin New Member

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    it should be fine, if you leave the clutch a little under powered for your engine. so it slips a little, on a hard launch. that is not a good thing for acelerating, but..... i think you will kill your axels a few times before the tranny goes, but i dont know. i think it will be ok for a good while.
     
  8. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    The B transmissions will hold up to quite a bit of abuse. Kenny Tran didn't round out his gears until he was pushing well over 800whp on his B block- and that was with a completely stock transmission. The main thing you want to worry about is differential strength and your clutch. Upgrade the diff to a Quaife, then throw in some strong aftermarket axles to keep everything together. I like to run the axles as the weak point in my system- that way I know what will fail WHEN something fails- and it's much easier to replace than an LSD or a clutch.

    400whp on a non-VTEC B18 is not unrealistic at all. It's been done before, and it's really not all that hard if you pick the right turbo and you tune your setup well. If you have the cash, I would recommend resleeving your block and going with an 84mm bore to pick up more displacement for a broader torque curve and even more power.

    Pretty much all the B series transmissions you would want to use are interchangeable. Stick to the GSR transmission- it has the gearing you want for a turbo setup. The LS gearing is too long. If you can run a hydraulic clutch trasmission, do it. You'll have a LOT more choices for transmission setups, and you won't be stuck for months if/when you grenade one. There are a LOT more hydraulic B series transmissions (model year 92+) available in the US than there are cable clutch transmissions. If you have the money and patience to convert your CRX to a hydraulic clutch setup, do it. It's much nicer to drive than a cable clutch setup converted to run a hydraulic transmissions. Tilton makes some nice parts that will convert your car over to a hydraulic system.

    Good luck.
     
  9. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    Thanks for your help bud. I do think that's probably what I will do. I first thought about a nice final drive, but I decided all in all it would probably just be better to stick to a GSR trans with a good diff. Getting it off the line shouldn't be a problem. I like to just pull lots of timing, stand on the 2 step and burn fuel inside the manifold. Hell, I might even throw a little nitrous at it to spool and get off the line. Although, I might just have to settle for roll racing as well lol.

    As far as sleeving does... I'm not sure whether I want to leave it stock bore or not. I might just have the block posted and call it good.
     
  10. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    if you make good nuff money just sleeve the block and dont use the block guard.
     
  11. phunky.buddha

    phunky.buddha Admin with a big stick Admin VIP

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    :werd:

    If you're willing to go through all that abuse to launch it, I would recommend spending the cash for some sleeves to bulletproof the engine too.
     
  12. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    IMO if youre planning to post the block... and call it good I would almost be willing to be that your shit gonna break. sooner than if you did it RIGHT the FIRST time by sleeving.

    So... youre going to use PIC for suspension? Why not get Omni's? They have drag setups as well...???...???? just a thought. its probably cheaper.

    EF-HONDA.com might help you out with finding parts.

    91 CRX? Siiiick. I had one that was stolen. Fuck phoenix.

    Anyway. Other than DR's and PIC's what are your plans for traction control? A boosted LS will have some torque, I doubt the stock cross member and radius rods will have much to do with eliminating the wheel hop you're gonna get... check into Full Race for traction bars...
     
  13. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    also... nonvtec.com there arent any ballers with a 400 hp LS yet...
     
  14. igotnothin

    igotnothin New Member

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    400ls is not the prob with forged. it is putting it to the ground. and if you are putting all that money in to you engine i would sleve it to.

    oh waite i put all that in my engine and i didnt never mind. probly a good idea though. im only looking at 350hp.
     
  15. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    yea okay fuck posting and fuck a block guard. i'll just sleeve the bitch.

    yea traction bars are probably in order as well. it's not like i'm worried about downtime since this is just going to be a toy.
     
  16. igotnothin

    igotnothin New Member

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    down time i said the same thing when i started. i wnat my car done now, its going to start snowing in a month and then ill have to waite to spring to finish. lol
     
  17. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    he's got an accord for a daily... so downtime wont be an issue for him... plus, its winter in Missouri... so its like 6.5 months of cold... work work work, spend spend spend... wait wait wait on parts to come and all that shit.
     
  18. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    that's why i'm starting during the winter. if it ends up taking a year to get done, then i'm doing something wrong.
     
  19. brian11to1

    brian11to1 Senior Member

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    or you're doing something right by taking your time. who all will have their hands in on this?
     
  20. spoolin@idle

    spoolin@idle D Series FTL

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    myself, my roommate, and the friend with the K-EG. that's it.
     
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