91 Integra

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vanillakilla

vanillakilla

Senior Member
hey I just rebuilt my b18a1 and finally put it in and I'm having problems. First off when the car idles there is a loud ticking (I adjusted the valves to minimum spec) and the ticking gets louder as the engine revs. When I was driving it I realized I had a coolant leak because I forgot to clamp down my heater hoses. As soon as I fixed that problem I started the car and it started and after about 45 seconds it stalled and now it won't start. The engine turns over but doesn't fire. I sprayed some brake kleen in the throttle body and the engine will fire. I did the fuel troubleshooting in the helms manual and it said to test the main relay for continuity and there is continuity between all of the terminals it told me to test except for 5 and 7 which is fuel pump and ignition. so I think my main relay is bad but I don't understand why that would happen. I appreciate any help. thanks
 
i really can not help you out with why but it can be fixed. the main relay itself has a plastic cap on it.
if you remove that and expose the internals, you will be able to see all the pins on the board. if you look at them very closely, you will most likely find a or several dry joints. basically you would be looking for tiny cracks in the solder. this is what is causing the relay to malfunction. its just the solder. to fix it the correct way you would need to desolder all the pins and then resolder them. i have fixed a couple myself and had no further problems with them. but all i did was to solder over the dry or cracked joints. once again its not the right way and there are no guarantees. i wish i could find the link i used because it had quite a few really useful pictures. im not sure this is the info you were looking for but it should at least get it running again i hope this can help you out.
 
yeah I am more worried about the tick becuase it is pretty loud and gets louder as the engine revs. I am just going to replace the relay its only 20 bucks and super easy to replace.
 
vanillakilla @ May 27 2006 said:
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yeah I am more worried about the tick becuase it is pretty loud and gets louder as the engine revs. I am just going to replace the relay its only 20 bucks and super easy to replace.
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I jus put a the motor back in my DA and it did the same thing. minus the leaks. but i went to bring it to the exhaust shop for a weld and it started up then stalled and would only crank checked my connects and shit then said screw. when i went back out the next day it started like nothing happened.

so i guess i really dont have any helpful info.... but that shit is weird right :blink:
 
Did you do a rebuild on the engine? if so, did you have the valves out of the head at all? My engine tick, but not that loud, I attribute the ticking to the cam regrind and valvesprings I installed as the seat pressure is higher, and the valve grind and cam profile is more aggressive. If you have a stock motor, I don't know. Did you get a valvejob, or lap the valves at all? It also could be injector noise, and since you said you were having trouble keeping the engine idling, the problems may be related, maybe your injectors are bad or clogged.
 
I personally don't mess with cylinder heads so I sent it to a reputable machine shop and had it rebuilt (valve grind, valve stem seals, hot tank and inspection) I replaced the main relay and nothing happened it still won't start. I am thinking maybe the loud noise I am hearing is an exhaust leak I may have forgotten to tighten down the bolts that hold the header to the header pipe. another think to note is that my ignition timing is messed up. with the distributor either fully advanced or retarded the marks don't even come close to lining up and that has me stumped. This thing is pissing me off it is one problem after the next and I haven't driven it since it was wrecked almost 7 months ago.
 
If you are talking about the timing belt I'm sure it is in time. all of the marks on the cam pulleys and the crankshaft line up. and if the timing was off only a tooth the engine would run like shit wouldn't it, because it idled and ran fine no backfiring or rough idling.
 
Sounds like maybe your machine shop did a piss poor job, recheck the valve lash, and if it's not that, then maybe you have some really loud injectors.

As far as the dying, and CELs?
 
brian11to1 @ May 31 2006 said:
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are you sure the engine is in time?
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^That's exactly what I thought when I was reading. And no, the engine won't necessarily run like shit, one tooth off. It may only miss under a load. Judging by what you wrote, it doesn't sound like you have had a chance to put it under a load. I'd check that before wasting any more time. It sure would ease my mind to KNOW my engine is timed correctly. It doesn't sound like it is. The whole ignition timing thing is weird, though. If it was just one tooth, you probably should be able to get the ign. timing close, if not right on. Hmmm...Confusing. I still say check valve timing first.
 
I think its timing related. Rather it be ignition or cam/crank timing. Make sure you have hte plug wires on in the correct order. A buddy of mine had this, put the wires on in the wrong order car wouldnt start. It kinda backfired too.
 
I have driven the car and no backfiring. it won't start because of a fuel issue (I sparayed brake kleen in the intake manifold and the engine fired). The timing is dead on I made sure while the engine was still out of the car.
 
check your connections, did you change out the fuel filter recently? Try cleaning your injectors. You also could have some bad gas.
 
I removed one of the hoses from the fuel filter when I removed the engine but I never replaced it. About the gas going bad how long does it take? I have had about 4 gallons in the tank for about 7 months.
 
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