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92 Accord Doors and Brakes

Discussion in 'Accord' started by 92stoccord, Sep 21, 2008.

  1. 92stoccord

    92stoccord Big Member VIP

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    Me again. figured i'd ask a couple questions about what i've been having touble with. First off, my drivers side door is a little tough to open, feels like its rubbing in the back. I noticed it doesnt do it when its jacked up. Second, my brakes feel spongy, if you know what i mean. sometimes they go to the floor, sometimes they are perfect, but pumping never helps. I put all new hardware and shoes in the back along, and bled everything. also, Ebrake sticks. think its in a spring, but if anyone has had this before, and its something else, drop me a line. Thanks!
     
  2. nootrac22

    nootrac22 Well-Known Member VIP

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    get a chiltons or a haynes they will show you how to adjust your doors and bleed your breaks.
     
  3. 92stoccord

    92stoccord Big Member VIP

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    Where do i find this?
     
  4. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Haynes manuals or Chilton manuals are available at stores like Autozone and Advanced Auto Parts.

    Your brake problem sounds like maybe a leak in the line, or more likely a failing brake master cylinder.
     
  5. 92stoccord

    92stoccord Big Member VIP

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    Thats what i figured, but I was hoping maybe there was a cheaper, often problematic solution. Are the mastercylinders usually problematic? Checked all the lines, and they're not leaking as far as i can see. not losing fluid. do they have proportioning valves from factory? Mine has one, but I havent been able to find another one in parts stores.
     
  6. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    The proportioning valves are solid, non moving parts. They are mounted on the firewall under the intake manifold.

    I wouldn't call the brake master cylinder problematic, just, a part that encounters wear like any other part. My mom's '96 needed hers replaced about a year ago, if that tells you anything. They're not that much money either. You can get generic ones from autozone or advanced auto parts with a warrenty if you cant find them elsewhere. Beck/arnly is ok from my experience (with clutch master cylinders).

    If you can put the pedal down till it's firm for a second, then it slowly sinks to the floor.... BMC deffinatly.
     
  7. 92stoccord

    92stoccord Big Member VIP

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    Thats me! Guess problematic wouldnt really describe 225k mi huh? I appreciate the help with the brakes. I know BMC isnt that much, just don't wanna wait till friday, ya know? thought the proportioning valve was after the master cylinder, idk, sometimes i'm retarted. Any advice on the door?
     
  8. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Actually yes the proportioning valve is after the master cylinder.

    It goes: Pedal -> BMC -> Prop. valve -> Calipers. I think you've got it.

    225k is a lot of miles! My mom's has only 160k.

    (edit, thought I told you my passenger door sticks too. maybe i said it in another thread. well it feels like a refrigerator door).

    I still havn't found a solution to my door sticking issue yet. I'm thinking maybe I'll need to replace the door seal, but the thing is it seems like it's a super seal... so maybe not. You could try ever so slightly bending the door upwards on it's hinge when open. Maybe after so many years it's bent down just a little bit causing the seal to stick. Not sure. Mine can be so hard to open, it feels like your going to rip the handle off the door (from outside). Temperatures also affect mine. Do they to yours?
     
  9. 92stoccord

    92stoccord Big Member VIP

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    Probably the master cylinder though. I'd put money on it. The fridge door thing is a good analogy, thats pretty much what mine is. just got mine this spring, so not too sure about significant temp change. when you get a chance, jack it up on the pass side and see if it works any better. just high enough to change a tire. it works for mine when i jack it on the drivers side. hasnt been bad enough to think im rippin the handle off, but definitely if i wanna shave it, which i do. (p.s. runnin drum backs. found my prop. valve, just cant find one for sale)
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2008
  10. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Why are you getting a new prop valve again?

    You know what's fun... an adjustable prop valve :)

    Mine sticks like that no matter which way the car is jacked up. I've jacked it up every which way over the last year of working on it and it makes no difference. I've tried cleaning the door frame and using oils and things... no luck on those either. I'm thinking people leaned on it too much and it's bent down some. My drivers has been ok. I got the car used and both doors were fine then, but my friends are retards so I attribute the sticking to them lol.
     
  11. caboose

    caboose USDM to the bone

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    My on my CRX I have the same thing with the door, I believe that it's sagged down, because if I lift up on the door when I open it, it's a lot easier.

    My 96 Accord has the same thing you are having with the brakes too, sometimes when you stop the pedal is a little soft. Mine is barely broken in with 210-215k on it :D
     
  12. caboose

    caboose USDM to the bone

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    You know you can just adjust it?

    Edit: it may just be the striker plate is out of alignment too
     
  13. YBLEGAL

    YBLEGAL Regular Member w/ Cheese

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    Hmm. The striker plate... you mean the U shaped latch on the chassis side? That seems to be lining up good, from what I can tell. I havn't honestly looked to see if the door can be adjusted, but you say it can? Makes sense of course, now I've got something to do while I wait to see if Greddy will ever send me my oil filter relocation kit.... ugh
     
  14. caboose

    caboose USDM to the bone

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    Yeah, what I sometimes see it that the striker is out of alignment, but since the latch in the door is tapered, it sides in nice, but when the striker hits the part where the latch necks down, it can actually rub against the top or bottom of the latch, causing the door to be hard to open, until the sticker moves outside of the latch.

    Typically the striker is too high (since the doors usually sag) so that's why sometimes on a car you have to lift so it's easier to open.
     
  15. 92stoccord

    92stoccord Big Member VIP

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    Like i said before, 225k and 16 years can take a good toll on a car. especially my poor little accord. i'll look into that next time i feel like jerkin with it. give me something to do while i wait for money to fix my mastercylinder. i hate this biweekly thing. why cant everyday be payday, only give me what i make in 2 weeks. do i have to wobble out the holes in the pillar for the striker? whats does the adjustable prop valve do? not getting a new one, just trying to trouble shoot, that way i know if its not the mc its the prop valve. unless you convince me to get an adjustable one.
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2008
  16. George777

    George777 ^^ Likes Bewbies

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    Amen.
     
  17. caboose

    caboose USDM to the bone

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    I believe they do make rebuild kits for these
     
  18. 92stoccord

    92stoccord Big Member VIP

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    For the brake master cylinder?
     
  19. 92stoccord

    92stoccord Big Member VIP

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    adjusted the door. It works great! only problem is it feels like it falls a little. ill try to drop it a little tomorrow. i appreciate the help! thanks guys. figured i'd better do it now. i have only have ambition when i don't have money. payday comes and i'll do it tomorrow.
     
  20. nootrac22

    nootrac22 Well-Known Member VIP

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    the master cylinder is fairly easy to replace. It's even easier if you have a buddy to help. You will need to bleed the entire breaking system (all 4 breaks). I find that easiest to do with 2 people, one to pump the break and one to bleed.
     
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