92 prelude bogging at low rpms and idle

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usually because that increases the temperature in the cabin as well. when that happens the points like to separate causing problems.
 
im gonna try and find a flashlight and pull out the relay and check her out
i just went for a little ride for a few and of course at first runs fine till the second bar comes on on the temp then she starts actin up
 
yup, my girl was the same way. i replaced the main relay and fuel pump at the same time, so i dont know what actually fixed her.
 
i appreciate your help hopefully im heading in the right direction now
everything else has failed so far
 
could be another name for it, i cant remember ever hearing it called that. if you get in the drivers side, head first, under the steering column and look straight up, youll see a 3"x1" relay. thats what your trying to get out. there are tabs on the sides that have to be spread apart to remove the relay.
 
kool im checkin on it now
i looked up pricing on advanced auto.com and thats what they callled it for main relay
 
say is it a little orange box right by the fuse panel on the left side of the steering colom that is held on by a bracket that it slides down out of
 
is it a little orange box on the left side of the steering colom beside the fuse panel
that sits vertically with the metal clip coming down to the middle of it holding it in place
 
mine was grey, but other than the color, it sounds right

pull it out and take a camera phone shot or something.
 
my motor is the H23 and it starts off at around 3 grand and then jumps between 800 and 3 grand looking at it im pretty sure its my tps or ISC where can i get either part (more sure its the TPS though)
 
my motor is the H23 and it starts off at around 3 grand and then jumps between 800 and 3 grand looking at it im pretty sure its my tps or ISC where can i get either part (more sure its the TPS though)

create a new thread dude, dont jack someone elses.

also, id suggest running down your coolant system and the IACV. If you think its because when you unplug the tps the problem goes away, that doesnt always mean its the tps.

( you can get parts from Majestic Honda - The Internet's #1 Honda Automotive Parts Store )
 
well i changed the main relay out but still got the bog as sooon as the car warms up
it seems to have calmed it down some but the prob. is deff. still there any suggestions on what to try next??????????????
 
now i have changed the coolant temp. sensor and still am having no luck at alllll
can somebody help me plz!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!:mad: :( :mad: :(
 
check the fuel pump (requires dropping the tank making sure the pump is all good) run some fuel injector cleaner, and do a seafoam treatment. if your sure that everything is the way it should be after that, check the main relay (grey box under the steering column) and make sure there are no cracking solder points. i dunno, but this is usually a fuel issue, so thats where id start.

Okay for this seafoam treatment... I have seen people post that a bottle should be divided into 3rds.
1/3 crankcase
1/3 fuel tank
1/3 intake manifold

Now, for the crankcase how long should it be in there for? Should it be in there for x number of minutes or x number of miles then a oil change. I've seen some people post that it should be run for like 50 mile then a immediate oil change.

I seen people post that the intake manifold should have the seafoam suck it up slowly. Then turn off the engine for about 5 minutes. Then start up the engine so that the carbon deposits are removed from the engine plus a lot of smoke will come from the exhaust.

Let me know if this is correct. I am hesitating on putting any in my intake manifold or my crankcase. I've put it in my fuel tank and I know it helps improve my mileage to 30mpg from 25 mpg. I've done the Restore engine oil additive for my cars and that helps also.
 
heres how i did it on my prelude.

1/3 in the gas (duh)
1/3 in the oil (just take off the oil cap and pour)

i then started my engine, let it get to operating temps, then i took off the pcv valve (breaking it in the process....not recommended) and let the pcv valve suck the last 1/3 of the bottle. Be sure to do this VERY slowly and do NOT let the engine die. Once the PCV has sucked up all the seafoam, wait until the smoke dies down and then let the car run for another 5 minutes once the smoke is less noticeable. You should be good to go after that. DO NOT turn off the engine. You have the ability to hydrolock, and that is not a good thing.
 
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