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92 prelude swap questions

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by Dark91zc, Jan 6, 2005.

  1. Dark91zc

    Dark91zc Senior Member

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    i have a 92 prelude and i want to swap a f22b into it. what do i need to do. or will this be a hard swap??
     
  2. TeamUrbanChaos

    TeamUrbanChaos Certified H22 Super-tech

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    WHY DO U WANNA DO THAT?
     
  3. Howie Feltersnath

    Howie Feltersnath Junior Member

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    Well I searched on this subject and this was all I found. I need to have this done because the H23A1 in the car is junk and the owner bought a F22B on ebay. She bought it because the ad said “ F22B is a direct replacement engine of the H23A1.“ So here is the deal, this is not about power it is about getting the car running as cheap as possible. So is it worth it? She already has the 2.2 and a used 2.3 is way more money than what she has. Any help on this would be great.

    This what the place who sold her the engine said:

    F22B DOHC SWAP INTO H23A DOHC

    1-all external gaskets appear to be the same between the F22B DOHC and
    The H23A DOHC engine; e.g. Intake and Exhaust gaskets.

    2-The timing belt to be used is GATES T132, 126 tooth belt

    3-If the customer wishes to replace the WATER (H20) PUMP, they can use
    A POA H2O pump (SOHC Accord F22A Type) however this US sourced H2O
    Pump is a 20 tooth gear, whereas the F22B JDM H2O Pump is a 19 tooth.
    This is of no concern, since the T132 belt still has enough length to
    Accommodate the larger 20 tooth gear, and still be held correctly by
    The BELT TENSIONER. Advise of tight fit.

    4-To our experience thus far, the H2O-cooled oil filter base must be
    Eliminated. There is NO strait forward way to re-use the oil cooler
    from the H23A. The main coolant pipe behind the H23A H2O pump has the
    Larger diameter pipe than the F22B H2O pump pipe. The rear of the H2O
    Pump housing is an integral part of the short block and cannot be
    Changed over. Therefore, the installer must retain our F22B main
    Coolant pipe, which does not have the provision for the H2O-cooled oil
    Filter base.

    5-By now, you have probably been advised that the positions of the oil
    Pressure sending unit and the knock sensor are different. (Comparing
    The H23A and the F22B DOHC). The USDM H23A has the knock sensor
    Mounted ABOVE the oil filter, while the oil pressure sending unit is
    Mounted BELOW the oil filter. On the F22B DOHC, the oil pressure
    Sending unit is mounted ABOVE the oil filter, and the F22B DOHC does
    not use the knock sensor at all.

    5a-For "Mickey Mouse" customer/installers, they can simply switch the
    Locations of the sensors. The customer simply has to RE-USE the
    JDM-F22B oil pressure sending unit-tell them to NOT touch that unit
    (ABOVE JDM oil filter). Then the customer can grab the USDM oil
    Pressure sending unit (including the additional fitting); tell them to
    Remove the ACTUAL USDM oil pressure sending unit from the "removable
    Fitting” Then, the customer can get a tap (10 X 1.25mm?) and drill
    Out the "removable fitting" to accept the USDM knock sensor. Now, the
    USDM knock sensor can fit into the JDM F22B block at the lower
    Position BELOW the oil filter. (Warning! This lower position is a
    Pressurized oil galley! Customer must properly seal unit with Teflon
    Tape and use proper torque to mount this unit!)

    5b-For "Picky picky" customer/installers, the customer must RE-USE the
    JDM F22B oil pressure sending unit as is - the customer should not
    touch the unit (ABOVE JDM oil filter) Now, the customer must locate
    the "blank hole" (i.e. not threaded, but hole is already there) in the
    short block; this is located just above the intermediate axle shaft
    (A.k.a. half-shaft) where it mounts to the transmission. The customer
    Needs to use a 12 x 1.23 mm (helicoil or guiltart -I can't make out
    these 2 words on the fax)the knock sensor can now be mounted in this
    hole (near the bell housing). CAUTION! to use this technique the knock
    sensor should be installed LAST. As the knock sensor is somewhat
    Delicate and this location is near the the axel shaft; to minimize the
    Chance of damage to the sensor, it is best to install this after the
    Engine and axles are already installed.
    :shrug: :shrug: :shrug:
     
  4. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    Yeah, that sounds about right. This swap shouldn't be bad. I'd do it.

    Don't worry about all that coolant and filter mumbo jumbo.

    The oil pressure sensor can be left alone. I'd find a good spot and mount the knock sensor, otherwise the P14 ECU will throw a code and retard your timing. It kills performance and mileage to have that code.

    Neither of those issues is a big deal.

    I'm willing to bet that you would need the H23 harness for that F22B engine. JDM engines were RHD, and therefore, the harness came in on the other side of the engine. It's much easier to use your stock harness, so don't lose that.

    That's a pretty good engine, and if you are getting a good deal, then do it. Let us know about any problems you encounter.
     
  5. Howie Feltersnath

    Howie Feltersnath Junior Member

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    Thanks, I will let you know how it goes. You are right about the right hand drive stuff, that was the first thing I noticed, atleast as far as the fuel rail was concerned. I also plan on hooking up the knock sensor some how.
     
  6. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    yeah, the fuel rail on the H23/H22/F22 is interchangable, so just use the one from the stock engine, but make sure to use the right injectors.

    For the knock senor, id just pull it out of the H23, hook it up, and put it somewhere safe....behind the radio...:)
     
  7. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    I'd try using it the way it was intended first. I tried grounding mine and leaving it hanging in the past. It didn't work. The ECU counts on certain frequencies of sound shaking the sensor.
     
  8. reikoshea

    reikoshea HS Troll...And Mod Moderator VIP

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    Well......i dunno....im trying to think about what i can do...

    I thought about just taking it and re-running the wires (AGAIN!!!) into the cabin and just like putting it in the seat or something like that...in the end the wires would be shorter....and ya know what?

    Since i already wired it once, the wire is all alone and not on the harness, so i can just pull it through the firewall :)
     
  9. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    I tried wiring mine, and hanging it with cable ties securely from my firewall. It's not enough. Just run it correctly, and use shielded audio cable, or chip the ECU so that it doesn't look for it.
     
  10. wildbill2010

    wildbill2010 New Member

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    1993 Prelude Si

    I also am lookin at doing this swap could you tell me where you put your knock sensor or where u get the ecm chip?
     
  11. hondafreak513

    hondafreak513 New Member

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