92DA ls/vtec swap - wont turn over - wont return key-5spd conversion as well.

[TurboColt]

Hey Guys!
Recently I;ve been helping a friend do an ls/vtec swap. B18B block and P72 head.
Anyhow, his car was originally a GS - auto.
So we converted it to 5 spd using all the mounts, pedals, intermediate shaft bla bla. Thats all fine and dandy.
Now, today we try to turn her over and we get nothing. The key wont come out of the ignition unless we disconnect the battery.
The only logical problem is that when we removed the auto shit, we may have left it in drive or reverse so the car still for some reason thinks its in drive or reverse so it wont let the key go.
Also, the motor wont turn over at all, no click no nothing. We tried a new battery and nothing.
We figure we have to jump a plug by the console to make it think it's in park.
Which at the same time makes no sense because we removed the auto control unit from the area where the clutch pedal sits in.
We're ready to go and this is the only thing holding us back.
If anyone has any information it would be grealt appreciated.
Thanks alot.
Dom

Oh the car set up is
Obd1 - obviously
P72 ECU chipped
b18B block
P72 head
YS1 tranny

thats all that should matter.

 

[mustang67n]

did you wire up the clutch safety switch or w/e its called?

it doesnt let you start the car without the clutch engaged, that would cause your no-start problem

is the ECU the manual or auto version (idk for sure, cuz im somewhat new at hondas, but i know there are 2 different ones and i'd think it'd have something to do with that)

just some thoughts untill someone more knowledgable chimes in

 

[TurboColt]

Thanks for the suggestions.

The car does not have a neutral switch for the pedal because it was automatic. The car needs to be in PARK or NEUTRAL to start. I think the switch is by the console and I just have to jump a couple wires and it will work. - I hope.

As for the ecu, P72 only came 5spd...no GSR ever came auto....

 

[mustang67n]

well, ive got my fingers crossed for you man!

and thanks for the info!
learn something new everyday! lol

 

[g2b18b]

i always wanted to see how a ls/vtec automatic would work

 

[Danno]

There must be a shift interlock solenoid in the steering column. I'll take a peek in alldata for you.

 

[brian11to1]

Well when you removed all the auto stuff, did you unplug or cut it? did you ground the wires that you are supposed to? Ive done the auto-manual conversion on my car, Ill try to get some pictures of the wiring.

I didnt wire the reverse lights or the clutch switch as I did not plan to retain cruise control, if you do however you will need to wire these up.

Did you shim the mount as you are supposed to? If you didnt/dont you will have a real bad vibration, not to mention the engine will sit cock-eyed.

FYI - the intermediate shafts are different between autos and manuals, so you will need to use the manual half shaft.

 

[brian11to1]

hey all, i just finnished swapping a newer motor and a manual tranny into my auto '90 ls. ran into a few problems that i didnt find the answers for except in the helms manual. so me and Tom (Gigarange) figured it out.
(if anyone has the on computer version of the helms manual, this diagram for the key interlock switch is found on section 24, on page 4 on the very left side)
when you convert your auto to manual, when removing the center console, do not rip the wires out, "there are plugs, and everything plugs out, and back in" like is what is said in Shea's write-up.
so the wires that basically need to be bypassed, are these two sets.
one set - the harness is a 2 wire harness. the plugs inside are larger then the ones on the 10 prong one (the larger ones)
black & black/white
this is to actually have your car to turn.. it's like when your in D, and your car dies on you, then you try to crank it over, but nothing happens. just like that. if you do not do this before you try to start the car, then gas will keep trying to pump into the motor..
then the other wires to be bypassed are the wires that release your key from the keyhole..
green/white & yellow/white (silverish lookin though..)
on the larger harness, with about 8 - 12 wires (not sure)
the green/white wire is located on one corner of the harness..
then the yellow/white (silverish lookin) is diagonal of it.. so you just go up one, and over one. (it's the only yellow wire on that harness)
then you just hook those up together.
suggested is to solder them together, but i just stripped the housing, then finger twistied it together, then used a needle nose plier to squeeze down on it. then i wrapped it with electrical tape.
as for the first two, to crank the motor over, i pulled the plugs from the harness, then just taped the two prongs together using electrical tape, and made sure it was very tight.
almost completely finnished, i will post again if i find anything else that needs bypassing..
thank you tom for helpin me out.
HTH anyone who is doing the conversion..

To remove the key, there is a 2pin connector all by itself. The wires leading to the connector are Yellow and Yellow/Black. Stick a paperclip in that connector and your key should be removable.

automatic to manual swap (auto - 5spd conversion writeup) - Generation 2 Integra Clubâ„¢ Forums
Generation 2 Integra Clubâ„¢ Forums

 

[TurboColt]

Thanks for the replys.
I got the car cranking...but no start
I found the timing was off by one tooth, corrected it and still nothing.
I have spark, fuel and plenty of air.
I even tried to pour some oil in the cylinders and nothing.
After crankng for a while I get a loud POP out of the intake....
Also, sometimes while the motor is cranking it sounds like its getting harder on one stroke and then cranks normally again...
Any ideas?

 

[mustang67n]

same thing happend to mine when i had it going
it was the main relay under the dash for me.. this is EXACTLY what happend..
i know its a common thing to go out in these hondas.. you can pull the relay out, and check the solders on the board of it (you have to pull of ht elittle cover thing first) and if any of 'em look cracked or 'dry' i'd resolder 'em.. most people suggest that you resolder all of them, but you dont have to.. i did and mines working great now!

 

[lil_red_rex]

popping out of the intake? make sure ur spark plug wires are in the correct order bro....prolly that

 

[pugarex]

when i did my ls swap in my crx that was the problem i had and i waould say check your plug wires as for making the car think its in park you have to cut and connect a couple of wires in the center console check rywire.com or something like that they have the auto to manual on a crx it might help.

 

[brian11to1]

when i did my ls swap in my crx that was the problem i had and i waould say check your plug wires as for making the car think its in park you have to cut and connect a couple of wires in the center console check rywire.com or something like that they have the auto to manual on a crx it might help.

Or he can read what I posted which covers all the at - mt wiring....

 

[TurboMirage]

another trick... when i did a head swap on my mirage it wouldnt start.

we had to jump the car the first time. extra battery power

 

[phyregod]

Another no-start thing you might check is the plug gap. Hondas get cranky when their plugs are off.. Just a simple fix, do it while you are checking your plug wires.

 

[pugarex]

Or he can read what I posted which covers all the at - mt wiring....

rywire has step by step pics of it on a crx might help (not to cut you off or anything man)

 

[brian11to1]

rywire has step by step pics of it on a crx might help (not to cut you off or anything man)

CRX's are different than DA's

 

[TurboColt]

Still no start

We needed up just getting a ITR and dropping it in.
Weird thing, friday, after cranking for some time, the motor started.
Twice.
Yesterday, we finsihed the rest of the car, the exhuast, shift links, bla bla.
I extended a few wires for the TB mounted map sensor and tried to figure out the vacum lines.

Does anyone have a link to the vac lines for a 92 5spd DA?

The motor wont start, but if you crank, it just barely sputters and wants to start but it just wont.

We bought a brand new main relay which why we think the car started...
any ideas?

-Dom

 

[rhecht]

Try switching the MAP Sensor plug and Idel Air Control Plug.
Had these switched once by mistake the car ran but barely and was extremely rich.
The plugs use the same connectors and could easily just be mixed up.
The ECU reads nearly the same voltage from those sensors, so the car will run but very rough.
Just a thought.