95 ex coupe automatic to manual?

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datHondan00b

New Member
Hey there. I just purchased my first Honda Civic EX. I am brand new to the Honda world, so forgive the amateur questions.

The EX is automatic, and I want to convert it to a manual. The car is bone stock except for these ninja blade lame rims the original owner put on, and the HiD lights he poorly installed.

1). What manual transmission and pieces (clutch pedal, clutch etc) would I need? (detailed)

2). What would be a good "next step" swap for engine and tranny? (for future references)

3). Which brand is good for lowering the car and what will I need?

Answers are greatly appreciated as well as your knowledge about the car and how to go about it. Thanks.
 
In regards to the manual swap, the easiest thing to do is see if you can find a manual EX Civic that got hit, and just purchase the entire car. That way you'll have every part you need and you can see how they all fit together. Lots of people do auto-to-manual swaps, but the parts list is actually pretty extensive (transmissions, clutch/flywheel, mounts, clutch lines and cylinders, pedals, shifter/shift knob, manual center console pieces, gauge cluster, ECU, etc.).

As for a swap motor, most people go B-series...easy bolt-in swap that provides a decent power upgrade. Anything is possible these days though...H22, K-series, even the J-series V6 all have swap mount kits available.

As for lowering the car, you should probably be more specific...how low? Do you want height adjust-ability? Do you want dampening adjust-ability?
 
I thought it would be an extensive project as well. Thank you for the info. As for lowering..why lower? What is this heigh adjust ability/ dampening adjust ability mean?
 
Height adjust is what it sounds like...do you want the ability to fine tune your suspension height and maybe raise or lower it again at a later date?

Dampening adjust is how stiff the shocks are. Stiffer shocks will result in better handling but a harsher ride, especially on bad roads...
 
Height adjust is definitely what I would want to do. I live in Arizona and a majority of the roads are bad here, so dampening would be a no go.
 
Dampening happens no matter what. He's talking about it being adjustable. If you stiffen it up, it handles better but you feel the bumps. If you soften it up, it rides nicer but it won't handle like a track car.

I'd personally take adjustable dampening over adjustable height in a scenario that I could only pick one.
 
I see. Recommendation on which brand and how low to take it for a first step from stock.
 
There are plenty of decent brands...Eibach, H&R, Tein, Progress, etc. If you want height adjustment, then you will want to look for what's called a "coilover". This is a spring/shock combo that has threads on the shock body and collars that you twist along those threads to adjust the ride height.

Full coilovers are usually fairly expensive (a decent basic coilover set usually runs from $700 to $1000). The other option is to just swap out the stock springs for a set of aftermarket springs. Springs can be had for much cheaper, usually around the $200 - $300 range. If you're looking for a slight lowering that won't stress out your factory shocks too much, then I'd look at Eibach's "Pro Kit" line or Tein's "S Tech" line. These will typically lower a car between 1" and 1.5".

Be forewarned though...ANY spring that's lower than factory will wear out factory shocks faster. If you're a careful driver and you go with minimal lowering, then your shocks might still last you a good while. Once you start dropping lower than an 1" or so though, your shocks will likely wear out faster. Be prepared to replace them more often or to upgrade to an aftermarket shock made for lowering. The Tokico HP shocks are decently priced shocks that can handle mild lowering. If you want something with adjustable dampening (and something that's well regarded among automotive enthusiasts), look in to Koni's "Yellow" line...
 
as far as parts you will need

trans
manual harness
ECU
axels
shifter linkage
center counsil for dash
manual pedal assembly

not required but i would get a new cluster cuz the auto has gear selection on it

you will need you remove the dash so you can drill a hole through the fire wall for the master cylinder

shouldnt be too hard just time consuming if i were you i would find a full swap it would be alot more worth it in the end
 
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