96 accord 2.2 non vtec to vtec swap

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Daniel Hammond

New Member
I have a 1996 honda accord LX. Four door.

it has an automatic transmission that has 5 gears... I was told they only had four, but theres no mistaking that mine has five. Ifk if it has a newer trany or what but its working fine for now.

bolted to it is a 1996 2.2l NON-Vtec engine. I recently blew the motor bad enough it smokes, hard af to start, has gas n coolant in the oil n no power. So im justing going to rrplace the engine. Im accuraly about hafe way done pulling the engine n trany.

but I cant find another 2.2 non vtec engine thats any good were I live, so im thinking about putting a vtec engine into it, block, intake, and head. Ik about the vtec silinod, and distributor different (dustributor is easy so that doesnt concern me).

However what does is this Vtec ststem. Im poor, in high school, n working at mcdonalds so im sort on cash, n just simply need my car to get me a few miles each day.

I cant afford the ecu for the vtec yet. Do I have to go with the vtec ecu or can I use a toggle switch, well my questions are, would the engine run without the vtec hooked up? (N would each 2 valves on the intake be opening, or just one without it hooked up?)

AND is it technically posible for me to hook up a toggle switch for my Vtec system to kick in...? (I have every intention of buying the right ecu later after I recover for this set back, and am just looking for a way to get it running for now.

thank u.
 
Can you run a vtec motor on a non-vtec computer, yes, but it will run like shit and probably throw codes. But it will run if its for a similar engine, injector size, etc. I wouldn't bother with a toggle switch-- you don't have the fuel maps to match. better off staying on the low cam (in fact, keeping it under 3500 rpms to not damage anything). Not sure what you mean by valves opening... that's not how vtec works if that's what you're implying. VTEC is a cam profile change. how long and how high the valves are open changes, but the valves themselves are always activated.
 
Oh ok! Ty for strightening thst valve part out. I thought that on the SOHC's (ik its on for the intake) but I thought that one outof the two intake valves per cylinder were always fully engaged while the other sat there sealed until yhe vtec switch on, i was probaly thinking of another brands set up however.
And I have no intention of getting the rpms ip past 3000 until I get the right computer since my car doesnt even hit 3000 when it shifts gears n never goes over 2500 down the hwy unless im over 70mph. So I appreciate ur advise and will take it!
the engine I am swapping into my car is the same F series, I have an F22b2 and im switching to an F22b1. They use the same block, exhaust, water pump, power steering pump, ac (which im removing to decrease on drag for max hp later) and I believe they use the same intake.. ik they use the same fuel rale, and injectors. Ik im can and will use my old distributor because it hasthe outboard coil that I just bought and this way I wont have to cut into the wiring.
So I kinda sorta know what im doing. But this is my first honda, first import or tuner tbh, I come for mini trucks and oldschool cars.
***if u dont mind, could u elaborate on the fuel maps a little for me? (Im lost on that part) should I use the injectors and or fuel rd ale fro km my orginonal engine until I get the right computor, or what?
thank man! Ur a life and headach saver!
 
The injectors between those 2 motors are the same flow rate (cc's) so the rate multiplier will be ok. however, the ecu is tuned for it's own motor. so if b1 wants X fuel at Z rpm/map load, but the b2 wants Y fuel at Z rpm/map load, your car will run lean/rich depending which way it is out of spec. that's why it's important to 'baby' it so that if it is out of spec, it isn't pushing itself hard where it matters more.

maybe this will help a bit: https://hondaswap.com/threads/what-where-are-lost-motion-assemblies.47134/
 
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