97 gsr usdm into 96 dx coupe

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Shaycivic

Junior Member
Hi guys! I'm doing a swap and the swap I got complete, came with a computer from a b16a obd2. My question is do I need a p72 ecu or can I rewire it and use the b16a computer. I am using a dx wire harness. any help and or pictures would be greatly appreciated. I ahve reserached this topic plenty of times and I actually got 2 different pictures with diagrams, but one says to use the a, c, and d connectors and the other says to use a, b, c. I have no clue which is right.
Thanks!
Shay

shaycivic@aol.com
www.se-racing.net
 
if you can use a chipped p28 with a obd2-obd1 convertor that is your best bet all you need to do is add a vtec wire from your dx wiring harness and a doing a swap in my 97 civic lx all i needed to do was add the vtec wire and the obd2-obd1 convertor is what i used. easiest way to go less codes and no secondary o2 sensor.
 
Originally posted by mrnice1058@Oct 3 2004, 07:22 PM
if you can use a chipped p28 with a obd2-obd1 convertor that is your best bet all you need to do is add a vtec wire from your dx wiring harness and a doing a swap in my 97 civic lx all i needed to do was add the vtec wire and the obd2-obd1 convertor is what i used. easiest way to go less codes and no secondary o2 sensor.
[post=397793]Quoted post[/post]​


but my ecu is obd2 (p2t-b16) and so is the car so why do i need the converter harness
 
in that case you can use that ecu but the only problem is that the gsr has a sensor on the intake manifold that i am not sure if your ecu has for that you need to ask someone with a p72 because i was going to use a p72 in my civic with the b16 engine and they told me about this sensor on the intake manifold so just be on the look out for that and if you don't have it or need it then you are good but the reason i said to use the obd1 ecu is because there is less codes as far as check engine lights and it is easier to work with and to tune trust me i learned the hard way


ps i love the fast and the grimey
 
the b16a ECU you have has no provisions to activate the IAB's in a GSR intake manifold

you can either scrap the stock intake manny and buy a skunk2 or other aftermarket unit without secondary butterflies or you can run without the secondaries deactivated like i did-

or you can get an OBD 2 P72, run wires for the IAB's, knock sensor and vtec and run everything like it's stock
 
well, now it's 13 months since my first motor blew, and 8 months since my last post and my car is still not moving. I have been reading the site for months though and now the car cranks and idols, so I'm almost there. I ended up getting a p72 with conversion harness and selling the p2t that I originally had. I've been through about 4 engine harnesses so far and I finally got the thing running. I'm only steps away from where I should be, all little things, but all tedious. I have to put the cluth line in and bleed it, put the bracket in to hold the shifter, and put some sheet metal to block the holes where the heater core box was.
I do have some questions though. Keep in mind I am going to turbo the car a month after i break it in as is. I realized I am missing a cat. I know thats where the o2 sensor is correct? Someone told me I can bypass the o2 sensor. I'm not really familiar with any of this so, is that possible? Should I even get a cat or just run a straight pipe? I'm also wondering how loud it would be if it was without a cat. I mean, I love the sound of a gsr motor that is beefy and deep, not one that is loud and annoying that we are all familiar with.
Next question is since I'm not going to have heat or A/C, do I really need those vacuum hoses? what should I do with the places where the vacuum hoses were if I don't need them.
I pretty much figured out the swap/auto-stick conversion with helpful materials from this site and honda-tech.com. I only got stuck twice, I'd say that's pretty good for a girl!
 
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