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A couple final problems

Discussion in 'HYBRID -> BA-BB /CA-CD' started by chamaco77, Nov 11, 2005.

  1. chamaco77

    chamaco77 Junior Member

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    OK my F22B2 to F22B1 swap is pretty much complete, just a couple bugs to work out.
    I have NO CEL, which is a good thing. Timing is set at about 16 advanced.
    The tranny won't allow me to get out of park so I have to stick my key into the shift lock to get it in neutral then start the engine and drive, I know I have to run another wire but no clue where, I tried to search but maybe it's the words that I'm using that's making come up empty handed. Can I for the time being use my non VTEC TCU without hurting anything. I hate to admit this but I've never driven a VTEC car so I have no clue what it should feel like. So if I use my non VTEC TCU and the VTEC doesn't activate that's fine because I have no clue as to what I'm missing out on anyway...LOL.
    Also I have a new cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. NGK's at .044 gap, when the car is cold on start up it kind of sputters for a while but once it warms up it smooths out. Do you think that may be a timing belt tension issue?
     
  2. chamaco77

    chamaco77 Junior Member

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    UPDATE:
    I took care of the tranny problems, it turned out that tranny that came with the motor had a bad torque converter so rather than take another chance I just threw my old tranny back into the car with my old torque converter. Now it shifts and starts perfect.
    The only remaining issue that I have is at cold idle the tach needle bounces from like 1500 to 1700 up and down up and down with the car in park. Once the car gets to temp. it smoothes out. Also when I put my timing light on it, the timing mark jumps from advance to retard it's not consistent. I have yet to check to make sure all the timing marks line up but even if it was off a tooth wouldn't it be consistent off timing and not bouncing back and forth. Yes I have the motor up to temp. and the ECU jumped when doing this.
    No CEL, although when I jump it to check for codes the CEL stays on, I think that's normal though right.
    The motor came with a 3 wire O2, but the harness I used and the O2 sensor I used is a 4 wire, so do I have to change anything at the ECU to go from a 3 wire to a 4 wire?
     
  3. chamaco77

    chamaco77 Junior Member

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    66 views and no one has any ideas????
    C'mon I know someone must have some type of insight on what could be wrong.
     
  4. tab

    tab Super Moderator

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    I believe the difference between a 3 wire and a 4 wire O2 is the heater circuits. The 4 wire has two heater circuits instead of one. It may be contributing to your idle, but I can't say at all for sure. A 4 wire bosch sensor is about $80. Why did you use a 3 wire?

    No CEL. And yes, the light stays on when you jump it and have no codes.

    Sometimes your timing mark jumps around a bit, but more so at a low idle. It's tough for us to diagnose what we can't see. It could be your IAC, O2 sensor, a spark plug, or just about anything under the sun. Rest assured that you didn't have to fuck anything up to get this problem. These problems arise on their own sometimes. Check your TPS, and look in the article section for erratic idle.
     
  5. chamaco77

    chamaco77 Junior Member

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    Sweet that's why you are the man.
    I actually went with the 4 wire.
    But the VTEC motor came with a 3 wire.
    To recap I'm using a non-vtec harness(4 wire)with a VTEC computer(3 wire) and a 4 wire sensor, I was just wondering if this would cause any problems.
    I think my IAC is on it's way out though cuz everything was alright for a while but now if I drive around for more than 20 minutes then I park it, it will fluctuate the idle for a couple of seconds then return to normal. I think the IAC is the culprit so I just have to wait until I can fork over $250 for a new one.
     
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